Travel Journal – June

Alexander Svoboda's Journal of a Journey

Alexander Svoboda's Journal of a Journey to Europe

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June


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An ordinary morning with little wind. I got up at 6:30
21
June 1st
and had slept very well all night long. The ship had sailed through the night
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until morning. At 7:05 the town of Jaffa came into view. Then half

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Jaffa Jaffa
an hour out boats came out from the shore to the ship to take on some more passengers. Likewise,
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lighters came to get the cargo and we heard that we would have to stay here all day.
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The town of Jaffa lies by the sea and has elegant buildings like the houses of Beirut
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but it is an abominable anchorage because the sea here is rough and our boat is flopping about like
05
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a fish. We were never able to keep ourselves from throwing up and so too
06
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all the passengers. Our heads were all spinning and our stomachs were quite upset.
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The coast of Jaffa is well-known around here for its rough seas. Many vendors came from the city
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with goods such as rings and rosaries and other curios made in Jerusalem and Jaffa.
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We bought some things as mementos. At
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11:00 they rang the breakfast bell and we went to eat at a private table in the salon.
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The ship never ceased rocking and we were much troubled. My morale was low and I grew weak.
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It came to mind how much better it is traveling by land than by sea. The ship
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is quite large but light and has only a little cargo in it, yet it holds 3600 tons.
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It is very long and narrow with about 100 cabins that are very nicely appointed.
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In them are electric lights and bells, also electric, as well as other things.
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Here I made friends with a man of American citizenship originally from Beirut
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but he had emigrated from Beirut long ago. His name is George Saba
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and he lives in New York. He is a very pleasant man. He was staying
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with us at the hotel but neither of us dared speak to the other until now.
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We were quite distressed by the rocking of the ship. Finally at 6:00 it whistled and set off from Jaffa,
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this accursed place. However we encountered high winds and the ship rolled
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even more. At 7:00 the dinner bell rang. I immediately went and ate
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hastily with an upset stomach and then rushed off to sleep.

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01
June 2nd
A nice morning with a westerly wind. I got up at 5:00 but I did not
02
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sleep all night because I was indisposed on account of the sea. I heard the ship
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slow down and knew immediately that we were arriving at Port Sa'id. I put my head
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out the window and saw the seaport, which came into view a half an hour out. The ships there were as abundant as
05
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worms. I hurried to change my clothes and went up on deck. Then the ship entered the harbor. It was 5:20.
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I saw a number of big ships in a line. Then after the ship stopped moving,
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we hired a boat, one of the Cook Cook: A reference to Thomas Cook and Sons, an international travel company that started as a rail travel company in Britain, it expanded to give tours in Egypt by 1869. By the time Alexander had arrived in Cairo, the company offered worldwide tours and transit options within and beyond the Middle East. In addition to providing rail options and a fleet of luxury steamers within Egypt. The company also offered travel options to many other locations around the world. boats. We stowed our things and then went ashore
08
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to the customs office. Here they searched us in case we had with us the slightest prohibited thing and they found nothing.
09
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We had decided that we would visit our friend Monsieur Joseph Khoury Joseph Khoury: Formerly engaged to Josephine, the daughter of Alexander Richard Svoboda's older half sister. The two never married because Josephine passed away before the marriage. who, 10 years ago, was
10
.
the interpreter for the French Consul in Baghdad. He was engaged to Josephine Josephine: The daughter of Medula Sayegh Tessy. Medula was Alexander Richard Svoboda's half sister from this mother's (Eliza Marine) first marriage. , Aunt Medula's daughter, who
11
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passed away before her marriage. So we asked about his house and they showed us where it was. We sent up our card fearing that
12
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this might be a different Khoury. They then showed us up and none other than Joseph's mother herself came.
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Then he arrived and received us with much joy and kissed us. We were truly amazed at how fate had allowed us to see him after
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so long. Our idea was that we would go from here directly to Cairo, that is, on the train that
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departs at 9:00. But Monsieur Khoury very much wanted us to stay here for the day so we agreed to this.
16
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I left to tour Port Sa'id and found it a very beautiful and clean town. Its markets and buildings are entirely
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like Europe. That is to say, all the buildings are four or five stories high and there is a large building, 9 stories high, made of iron.
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It is across from the house of Monsieur Khoury. I can honestly say that the arrangement of Port Sa'id is better than
19
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Beirut although it is small and extremely expensive. A person cannot live there on less than 15 francs
20
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a day. All the shops and department stores are in the French style and nearly all the inhabitants of the town dress
21
Port Sa'id Port Sa'id
in the French manner. The Egyptian police patrol every street, dressed very neatly and were on the lookout
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for anyone who plays rough. My health up until now has been quite disrupted. My head is spinning
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and I am incapable of doing anything. In the afternoon we had breakfast at Monsieur Khoury's

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and asked him to show us some of the hotels so we could find a place to spend the night. He took us to
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a hotel where we rented two rooms. They asked 15 francs of us for dinner and bed. The bicycle is
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abundant here and there are many, both men and women, who ride it in the streets.
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After dinner Monsieur Khoury came to visit us and stayed for about two hours.
05
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Today the morning is a little hot with a westerly wind. The weather
06
June 3rd
here is much different than in Damascus and Beirut. It is like days in Baghdad during this month.
07
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That is to say, dry and hot. We drank tea at 7:30, got our things together, and went to
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Monsieur Khoury's house to say goodbye and go to the railway to board the train
09
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to Cairo. So we stayed just until 8:30. Then we bade his mother goodbye
10
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and he generously offered to accompany us to the station. We went and got ourselves seats. We saw that this train
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was much nicer than the one that goes from Damascus to Beirut. And by chance we came upon
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an empty Wagon for us only and we were very pleased. At 9:00 sharp
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the whistle blew and the bell rang for the departure. So we exchanged goodbyes with Monsieur Yousif Khoury
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and the train left Port Sa'id taking the shore of the
15
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Canal de Suez, always traveling along its banks. At 9:35
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it halted. It was 14 kilometers from Port Sa'id to here. At 9:45 a ship in the canal,
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named Abdul Qader Abdul Qader: The name of a ship. , passed us with pilgrims on board, one that had certainly come from Basrah
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going to the Hajj. At 10:00 the train stopped and started again 3 minutes later. 10:50 al-Qantara Station, we departed at
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11:00 / 11:45, al-Ferdan, we departed at 11:47. We arrived in al-Isma'iliyya
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Suez Canal, al-Isma'iliyya
at 12:15 and got off the train. We had to wait for the train coming from
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al-Suez to take us to Cairo. At 1:10 it arrived and we transferred.
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We took another Wagon but not the same kind as the first and older.
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Isma'iliyya is a small and rebuilt town. At 1:23 we set out
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returning to al-Suez so that the train can take the Cairo track. This one

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was going fast, much swifter than the one we came on, to al-Isma'iliyah.
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1:55 , Mahassana, we departed at 1:58 / 2:08, Qassasin, we departed at 2:10 / 2:25, Tel al-Kabir,
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we departed at 2:30 / 2:45, Abu Hamad, we departed at 2:48 / 3:00, Abu Ahdhar, we departed at 3:01.
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Here there is a large and well-designed cemetery Cemetary: In Abu Ahdhar, a cemetary commemorating the soldiers who died int he 1882 Battle of Tel el-Kebir in Egypt. with the graves of English and Egyptian soldiers
05
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who were killed in the battle between England and Egypt Battle of Tel el-Kebir: An important battle in 1882 between the British military and the Egyptian army led by Ahmed Urabi near Tel el-Kebir, about 110 km northeast of Cairo. The British succeeded in maintaining control of the Suez Canal and other regional interests. and its allies. 3:10, Zaqaziq.
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to Cairo
This town is quite large and resembles Baghdad in size. Here many passengers came
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and 7 of them even entered the reserved Wagon. They were quite lacking in manners
08
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and made jokes amongst themselves thinking we were Westerners. The lands here are very fertile and there are many
09
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date palms and crops such as barley, wheat, cotton, rice and other things.
10
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For the first time since Baghdad I saw water buffalos in this place. But
11
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the entire area from Port Sa'id to here is very sandy with dust clouds and the train
12
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is full of dust. The railway was swift and we traveled quite well.
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I counted 15 telegraph poles passing in a single minute. We departed from
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Zaqaziq at 3:25, with a large number of passengers from there. Zinkaloon, 3:35, we departed at 3:36
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/ Joudida, 3:48, we departed at 3:50 / Minat al-Qamh, 3:55 we departed at 4:00 / Mayt Yazid,
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4:05, we departed at 4:07. At 4:15 the train stopped and they said we must
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move to another one because the track here is being leveled and the railway cannot pass directly.
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So we had to carry our things and race to the second railway, jostled
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left and right by the passengers. At last we reached the other train but with great difficulty and settled into
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a compartment that holds 8 persons. We were obliged to wait for the transfer of the cargo from one
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to the other. Finally at 5:10 the train departed. We arrived in Shablena at 5:20
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and departed at 5:28 / 5:45, Benha, we departed at 6:00. The train was extremely swift,
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traveling this speedily with us for the first time. It was making a full 21 poles per minute.
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After a 15 minute run Cairo came into view. So it reduced its speed and began

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to travel slower.
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04
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AT 6:35 WE ARRIVED at the Cairo station and caught sight of the towering buildings
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and lovely edifices that eclipse both Beirut and Damascus. Here hotel owners gathered
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about us abundant as worms and we sought out the best one, that is, the Hotel Metropole.
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Cairo
We hired a carriage and rode through pleasant
08
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markets and beautiful streets that cheer the heart. As we continued on our way people
09
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swarmed in the streets and the carriages teemed like fish. The policemen in the streets
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are as neatly dressed as the English soldiers. We do not have time
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just now to look at everything. So we came to the hotel entrance and bargained with them to pay one
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English pound each day for the three of us. We entered and took two rooms. Everything is
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unbearably expensive. In Port Sa'id it is much worse. There a porter will not carry anything
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a distance of only three minutes without one franc and everyone else is the same. At the hotel we met
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Madame Fara, that is, Regina, the daughter of Khowaja Habib Shiha Khwaja Habib Shiha: The brother of Francis Shiha; he fathered a girl named Regina. and her son Victor.
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She was very pleased to see us when we reached her room. She could not believe that
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we had really come and was quite astonished to see me. She asked about Baghdad, about her sister
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Takohi among other things. We dined at 8:00 and then went up to sleep in our rooms
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because we were truly devastated by exhaustion and the journey.
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I got up at 6:30 in the morning. It was hot all night long
21
June 4th
and the windows were open in the room. I slept very well this night
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because I was so tired. After we drank tea I went with my
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father to tour the markets. But what markets they are, like palaces!

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All the stores are made bright with gilded signs and glass on the main doors, and
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with passages like beautifully designed brides. First we went to Messrs.
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Thos. Cook & Son to purchase tickets from one of them right then to Brindisi
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and Napoli, as well as railway tickets from here to Alexandria.
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So we came to the office which looked as if it was a city gate. The architecture was amazing and
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the building seemed like a castle. We entered and inquired about the tickets. He immediately showed us the plan
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of the ship that will sail from Alexandria on the 11th of this month to Brindisi.
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It is called Sutleg. It holds nearly 5000 tons and is an extremely large ship.
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He issued three second-class tickets for us to Brindisi for 16 and a quarter English
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pounds and railway tickets from Brindisi to Napoli for about 6 pounds,
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and also tickets from here to Alexandria for one and a half pounds for all, that is, all three of us.
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He said that if we returned in an hour the tickets would be ready. So we left
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and went to the bank, that is, the Banque Impl. Ottomane, to collect
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a total of 60 pounds. This bank is also large with admirable architecture and
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a fair number of clerks. They handed us the money and we left returning to Cook's
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and found all the tickets ready. We took them and went to the Austrian Consulate
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to ask if there were any letters from Baghdad addressed to us. We gave them
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gave our cards and they looked but found nothing. Then it was necessary for us to return to the hotel because
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it had turned 11:30. In Regina's room I ran across Monsieur
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Auguste Tonietti, whom I had quite forgotten. When he left Baghdad
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I was about 9 years old. He did not recognize me either. We were very pleased
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to find someone who could help us here and so we arranged to meet him
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in the afternoon, that is, at 4:00, and tour the town together. In the course of conversation
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he told us that Effie Effie: Effie Svoboda was the daughter of Alexander Sandor Svoboda and wife of Ernest Boucherot. Born in Baghdad in 1852, she left the city in 1860, eventually settling in Cairo. She gave birth to many children, including a girl named Evelyn and sons Paul Louis and Alphonse. , my late Uncle Alexander's daughter is here but is

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out of town and that her husband has an Optician's shop in the city.
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I prepared a few letters to Baghdad and Basrah after breakfast. Then Monsieur Auguste came at 4:00 and took us with him to
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see Monsieur Boucherot, Effie's husband. He had no news of this
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whatsoever and when my father surprised him the poor man was so amazed
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that he cried out in a loud voice and hugged him as if in disbelief
06
Azbeqiyya, Cairo Cairo el Izbakieh
and appeared very happy to see us. He is a pleasant man and he has a store where he sells
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binoculars, engineering tools, and other things. After a half an hour we left
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his place. He said that Effie would return tomorrow and that he would bring her to our hotel.
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He also invited us to spend the day with him outside the city on Sunday. From there we went into
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a wooded garden called al-Azbakiyah al-Azbeqiyya: To be completed. in the center of the district.
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What a pleasant and agreeable garden it is, with every kind of tree in
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the world purchased for exorbitant sums in order to bring them here. Beneath
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the trees there are plenty of seats and benches and people are going to and fro.
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In the middle there is a very large pond, I mean 200 meters long, with geese,
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but a different kind of goose we had never seen before. It has a long neck and a beak
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with a black appendage and is quite large. There is a raised circle next to the pool
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where they play music, pleasant Western songs. In short this place
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is the best of all the wooded gardens we have seen. In front of this garden,
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in the passage, there is a large statue of Ibrahim Pasha riding his horse, made entirely
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of bronze. We stayed until 7:30 and then returned. The streets
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swarmed with people, Westerners with their women, as abundant as worms. It was a thousand times more
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crowded than in the morning because everyone had just now finished work. The streets are lit
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by electric lights, natural gas, and petrol. Streetcars go to and
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fro and so too the bicycles. Here for the first time we saw the

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Tramway. It runs on electricity and they call it the Automobile.
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This thing is truly astonishing. It moves by itself without being pulled by horses or having
03
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fire in it. Returning to the hotel we said goodbye to Auguste and agreed that
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tomorrow he would come to us so that we could go and see other places.
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I got up in the morning and the weather was very hot. The night had been
06
June 5th
very stuffy. After I had washed and changed Monsieur Auguste
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arrived and we decided to visit a mosque well known for its architecture. They call it
08
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al-Muqattam Mosque. So we set out from the hotel and boarded the Tramway Electric
09
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to journey to the outskirts of the city in order to go up and see this mosque which is built tall
10
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and on top of a mountain. We arrived and there were many barhama (acacia) trees in the streets.
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Then we climbed up little by little and went all around this very large mosque.
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al-Muqattam Mosque
The building is like the work of a mighty people. From here we see the whole town below us
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and so too the pyramids become visible to us from here. Afterwards we wanted to enter the
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mosque, that is to say, the prayer hall, so we were obliged to wear their slippers.
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We wore them and entered into the prayer hall. We were astonished by its size and by what there was inside
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of refined marble-work. Its width is 80 steps and its length is many times
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that. It also has four domes on top, each one higher than the other, and all
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have encircling balconies. A chandelier hangs in the middle suspended
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on a boat chain because of its size, the kind they use to pull up anchors. They can light
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1000 lamps on this chandelier and its circumference is possibly 10 meters. Then we exited
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and gave them a few piasters as a tip. We then came to a very deep hole
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called the Well of Joseph The Well of Joseph: According to Burckhardt (1812), the Well of Joseph (Ar. Jubb Yousif) was on the road between Damascus and Akka. Alexander must have visited a second well, known by the same name, a short distance from Cairo. , that is to say, where Joseph the Beautiful was thrown into the
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well. Here too we gave them a few piasters and they opened the door for us. We went down into it

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because it is in the depths of the middle of this mountain. It is dark
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so they brought us candles. I went down half-way with Auguste and we saw
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a tomb in the wall and something like wheels for drawing water. We were at a depth of 200 meters and it was but
04
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another 100 meters to the water. But we came back up because we were dying from exhaustion
05
Cairo
and the heat that had killed us all day long. The sun was blazing hot like the days of the summer
06
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in Baghdad. So we left this place quite amazed by its workmanship
07
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and went back on the tramway to the hotel. It was 12:00 and we were
08
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expecting Effie, daughter of the late Uncle Alexander, because her husband had told us that she
09
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would come to our place at noon. Just when we sat down at the table for breakfast they told us that
10
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guests had arrived to see us and we knew that it was Effie. She came right in and
11
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continuously embraced us most affectionately. She was surprised at how she had encountered us and was extremely happy to see us.
12
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So we had her sit down at the table with us and ordered a meal for her. Afterwards we went up with her to
13
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our room and remained talking at length about Baghdad. She said that it has been 37 years since
14
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she left Baghdad. Yet she recalled everything up to this very moment, even
15
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the old songs. But the poor thing is very old and the hair on her head is growing
16
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white. She was much taken by my mother and I showed her many photographs of Baghdad and especially
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photographs of our family. She was overcome by wonder when she saw such changes as had happened
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in the family. At 4:00 we took her with us and went to the market to buy a few
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things. Then we went to her husband's shop and found her youngest son there. He is named
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Paul and is 10 years old. Her elder daughter is married and has a
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boy. We kept walking after leaving the store until we came to the railway station.
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Then we said our goodbyes and she insisted that tomorrow we come and spend the day
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at their house, in a place called al-Matariyah al-Matariyah: A small historical site located on the outskirts of Cairo of seeming importance to Christians. The site is home to a prominent obelisk, an ancient tree named after the Virgin Mary, and a Fresco of the Holy Family located in a local chapel(date unknown), and a small body of water colloquially called the “Jesus Well.” , outside of town at a distance of
24
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a half hour's walk and 10 minutes by railway. We returned to the hotel at sunset.

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01
June 6th
A stuffy and hot morning. I got up at 6:30 and changed my clothes.
02
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Because today is Sunday we had arranged yesterday with Monsieur Auguste
03
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that he would come to us at 8:00 and take us with him to church to hear mass.
04
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From there we would go to the station and to Effie's house. Auguste came right at the set
05
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time. We took him and went to a small church. We saw that all
06
Cairo
the masses had finished and that another one would be held at 10:00. But that was very
07
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late and the weather was getting hot. So we decided that it would be better to go to
08
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the railway and get ourselves tickets to al-Matariyah. We hired a carriage and went to
09
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the station. It was 9:15 and we got return tickets for 12 standard piasters
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for the four of us. At 9:30 we boarded the train and it set out. We journeyed along, stopping every
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10 minutes at a station, until we arrived at 10:00 in al-Matariyah. We got off
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and went to Effie's place. The weather was getting hotter and hotter and the ground
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was boiling hot because it is dry sand. We entered and they were happy
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to welcome us. Auguste had gone to be with some of his friends. We went into a room
15
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and shut all the doors and windows because the blazing heat was extremely
16
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powerful. At noon it got to 112º Fahrenheit and I can say
17
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that in Baghdad there is no heat like this. So an hour after noon we sat down
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to breakfast at which time Effie's son Alphonse came, the one who works
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at the railway. He is a youth of 21 years. The poor fellow was sick
20
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from the heat. Finally at 4:15 we said our goodbyes and left to catch the train
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that leaves at 4:30. The sun here was very hot and the weather
22
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was dry, saam-like, and scorching. They used to say that Africa
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is hot and yet we did not believe it. At 4:30 the train came and we boarded it.

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There was not a single person on board because of the intensity of the heat. Auguste came as well. We arrived
02
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in Cairo at 5:00 and decided to visit Yousif Serpos who arrived today from
03
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Alexandria. When we were in Port Sa'id we wrote him a letter informing him of
04
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our arrival here and they sent the letter there for him. Yesterday at sunset a telegram came from him telling us that tomorrow
05
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he would be in Cairo. So we went with Auguste
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to his residence and entered and went up to the third floor where we saw him. He was happy to see us and
07
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his wife came too, who is quite young, perhaps
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22 years old. He has two little boys aged two years and under. We left
09
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their place after an hour. He invited us for dinner at his place tomorrow and we accepted. We had intended
10
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to go and view the best place in Cairo which is al-Gizeh,
11
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a large district on the other side of the Nile River. So we hired a carriage for 3 francs
12
Giza Guizeh
and rode with Auguste over leveled roads bordered by plantings
13
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of barhama, where people in carriages and on horseback and bicycles were abundant as worms,
14
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swarming. Then we came upon the Nile River Bridge which is made of iron and stands
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about 50 meters above the river. At its entrance there are two bridgeheads
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with two lions, sculpted in steel, very large, and a truly
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terrifying sight. We then crossed the bridge over the Nile and came to al-Gizeh, an extremely pleasant
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place. It resembles a covered passage with barhama trees on both sides which
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shade the center and carriages in abundance on two lanes, one lane going out
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and the other coming back. And between them there are police on the lookout for anything the least bit
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inappropriate. Here there is the best hotel to be found in Cairo. It is called
22
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the Gazereh Palace Hotel Gazereh Palace Hotel: This was a luxury hotel located in central Zamalek. Jointly managed by the French Gezirah Land Company and the Egyptian Hotels Company, the building was converted to a hotel during the late 19th century (only a few years before Alexander’s visit); it had previously been a palace of Khedive Ismail. The hotel was famed for its luxury, and it was a popular location with European tourists. and it is truly a sight to see.
23
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People who have seen it say that its like is not to be found in Europe because it is as large
24
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as the largest palace. In it are more than 300 rooms, an electricity

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generating facility, and huge theatres. In front the ground is planted with all
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kinds of flowers. Every 10 cubits there are statues and electric lights
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fill it inside and out. In short it is very elegant. Then we returned from this
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place which is also used in the winter for betting on the horses
05
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at 7:30.
06
June 7th
I awoke at 6:30 in the morning. The weather was still stuffy.
07
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It seems that these are the hottest days here. After drinking tea Monsieur Auguste came to take us
08
.
and we hired a carriage and went to see the sisters of Yousif Serpos Yousif Saryos: A resident of Alexandria who had two children and two sisters, Mariam and Touza, who had recently lost her husband. , that is,
09
.
Mariam and Touza, whose residence is a half an hour from here. On our way we went into
10
.
the place of a dressmaker who is sewing a coat for my mother. Here I saw something worth
11
.
mentioning, something wondrous and rare. This dressmaker has a son some 35 years old.
12
.
I saw with my own eyes that he was blind, since the age of twenty, and yet he has learned to play
13
.
the piano. This poor fellow was inspired by Allah and so long as he has been blind he has been giving piano lessons
14
.
to many people. Beyond that he composes music and writes the notes down in
15
.
notebooks and teaches them to students despite being blind to the ultimate degree. This is something
16
.
that amazed me and will never happen again. We arrived at the house of the
17
.
Serpos daughters and went up to their place. They greeted us dressed in black for both
18
.
their sister and Touza's husband, Iskander Nassour. Parson Boutros Abed came here too, the one who
19
.
was the director of the Chaldean school in Baghdad six years ago. The poor fellow has lost much
20
.
weight and is now in charge of the church that was sponsored by Antony's wife
21
.
who lives at the same building with Yousif Serpos
22
.
but on the floor below. Then after leaving Mariam and Touza's home,
23
.
Parson Boutros went with us to have a look at the church that

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01
.
belongs to Antoine Abdul-Mesih's wife. We entered and found it pleasant. It was not
02
.
very large and as yet unfinished. They are still painting but the interior is lovely and
03
.
holds only about 500 people. Up to now she has spent 7000 pounds on it.
04
.
We returned to the hotel at 12:00 and had breakfast. Afterwards at 5:00 Auguste came
05
.
and took us to visit Antony's wife Helene. She received us
06
.
in the diwan. She is old and deaf, about 65 years of age. Since we had decided that
07
.
we would dine at Yousif's place we said our goodbyes and went up to the floor above. There
08
.
we were seated in the diwan and Yousif and his wife entered later. Yousif entertained
09
.
us to the best of his ability. Then we decided that after dinner we would go and take the air in
10
.
the surroundings of Cairo. Yousif's wife is young, 20 years old, and she plays the piano quite well.
11
.
She played a number of pieces for us, especially some melodies that I used to hear in
12
.
Baghdad. Then I thought of the homeland and wished I were there. We sat down to dine at 9:30 and
13
.
the table was quite lovely. We finished at 11:00 and then took two carriages
14
.
to the bridge district that they call kopri Kopri district: Possibly a reference to the area around Gezira Bridge. Constructed in 1872, the bridge linked the East Nile and the island of Zamalek. The bridge has since been demolished, and today the Qasr-e-Nile bridge serves the purpose that the Gezira Bridge once served. . But how pleasant the view is there
15
.
on the roads with trees on both sides and electric and gas lights
16
.
on both lanes. There is something especially beautiful at the bridgehead where the rays of light cast
17
.
a charming and even glow. We returned at 12:00 to the hotel and said farewell to
18
.
Yousif and his wife. We arranged with them that tomorrow we would go to the Palace of Antiquities Palace of Antiquities: Cairo’s Museum of Antiquities, which held most relics from Egypt’s ancient past. It was moved to Giza in 1891 following a flood that damaged the previous location. Soon after Alexander’s visit, the goods in the museum were moved once more. ,
19
.
that is to say, the Musée. Today I sent a number of letters to Baghdad, that is, to Johnny
20
.
Kasperkhan, Nassoury, Jamil, and to Rapha'il. I also sent Johnny the regulations
21
.
I obtained from the president of the university in Beirut.
22
June 8th
I got up in the morning and changed my clothes. The weather was still
23
.
very stuffy. After we drank tea at 8:00 the Khowajas,
24
.
Auguste, and Yousif, came to take us to the exhibit of Egyptian antiquities.

Page 086


01
.
So at 8:30 we hired a carriage and rode toward the bridge. We crossed and took a street called
02
.
al-Giza. It is completely shaded by barhama trees on both sides, which cast a shadow
03
.
over the middle. Here the breeze was blowing pleasantly and the zephyr was cheering to the heart.
04
.
Half an hour later we arrived at the Palace of Antiquities in Giza, which they call Le Musée.
05
The Palace of Antiquities in Giza
It consists of a huge orchard with a
06
.
very large saray in the middle which was previously the residence of the former khedive
07
.
Isma'il Pasha. Now it has been made into an exhibit which houses all the Egyptian finds
08
.
discovered in these lands. Because today is Tuesday admission is free to all visitors.
09
.
Then we reached the gate and the palace came into view. It is a most excellent thing for its sublime architecture
10
.
and decorative workmanship. We entered and they asked us for the canes and umbrellas
11
.
because they feared that something inside might be broken. We entered the first room and saw
12
.
the embalmed bodies that are the Momies d'Egypte. They are desiccated but
13
.
in the state in which they died, except for being desiccated and black. All their jewelry and clothes
14
.
are here as are the shrouds. They are very ancient, no less
15
Le Musée
than 3000 years old. Finally we went into room after room in this
16
.
huge, pleasant palace, all decorated and dazzling and far better
17
.
than the finest houses of Damascus, which astonished us. So here we saw
18
.
all that they had discovered of this ancient people. Their clothes, idols, rings
19
.
and gold work, coffins, furniture, tools, mirrors, books, jewelry,
20
.
articles of war, beads and their inscriptions on linen or tree leaves, and so on, and
21
.
other artifacts that bewilder the mind and confound one's wits.
22
.
This palace contains nearly 90 rooms all filled
23
.
with such artifacts which are a sight to see and which open one's eyes
24
.
to ancient things. Here all these objects are stored in covered boxes

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01
.
of glass and crystal to prevent their being touched. We also saw their ships, boats, oars,
02
.
and so on. Actually we kept on touring until 11:00 and had still not finished. We were extremely tired
03
.
from being on our feet and so we went downstairs after we had looked at everything, got into the carriage, and returned to our place
04
.
quite thoughtful and impressed by this pleasant visit. In the afternoon
05
.
Khowaja Yousif and his wife came to visit us. At sunset we went to enjoy the fresh air
06
.
in the Azbakiyah Garden.
07
June 9th
Today I woke up in the morning, that is to say, at 5:00 because we had decided to go and see
08
.
the extraordinary pyramids. The morning was pleasant and not too hot. Monsieur Auguste
09
.
came to us and at 10 minutes past 6 we got into a carriage and rode toward
10
The Pyramids Pyramides
the bridge in order to take the road which will lead us to the pyramids. So we crossed and went between
11
.
the barhama trees on both sides and among long, straight roadways.
12
.
The sun was casting shadows and a very nice morning breeze blew. At last we arrived at
13
.
7:45 at the pyramids which are truly one of the wonders of the world.
14
.
A hotel called Mena's House Mena House Hotel: A hotel near Cairo and the Giza Pyramids. The site was converted into a hotel after its 1885 acquisition by an English family. The hotel began to stay open year-round around 1890; this marked a shift from other hotels, which typically closed during the summer. The hotel was incredibly luxurious, as it included tennis courts, high-end chefs, and the first hotel swimming pool in Cairo. is nearby
15
.
which is extremely pleasant and well-decorated. But before we arrived at the pyramids
16
.
a crowd of people wanting to act as our guides gathered around us. They were rushing toward the carriage and quarreling
17
.
amongst themselves. We rebuffed them and did not want any of them but they did not make way
18
.
and were truly quite annoying. We told them that we wanted none of them at all yet they did not give up
19
.
but, this time, went and brought their camels and riding animals. So we left them behind, like dogs, and went
20
.
toward the first of the pyramids which from afar appeared a small thing to us. These
21
.
pyramids are built of great blocks of marble laid one on top of the other and
22
.
are a sight to see. The height of these pyramids is 470 feet.
23
.
They suppose that the kings of the ancients when they ascended to the throne
24
.
had deep tombs made for them at a depth of 400 feet. Above them they constructed

Page 088


01
.
these huge mountains, that are the pyramids, because they believed that their souls
02
.
after death would return on the Day of the Last Judgment to take on their bodies and live deathless
03
.
for all eternity. Before dying one must direct that after he dies
04
.
they lay up his body in the tightest possible place so that it receive no breath of wind
05
.
or air and for that reason too they embalmed them. This could possibly be true.
06
.
After viewing the first pyramid we went toward the Sphinx,
07
.
which here they call Abul-Hawl. We were amazed by its size and massive workmanship.
08
.
We observed as much as our strength allowed because the heat was very strong and the ground
09
.
was not easy to walk on because it was sandy, hot, and rose and fell.
10
.
So we descended and took to the carriage. It was 9:30 and we went back to where
11
.
we had come from. Thus we arrived at the hotel at 10:50 and paid the carriage fare of 35 standard
12
.
piasters. After breakfast Effie and her son, Alphonse, arrived
13
.
and stayed until 6:00. Then they left the hotel giving us their word that they would return
14
.
tomorrow afternoon to say our goodbyes. At sunset we took Auguste and went to
15
.
al-Azbakiyah to listen to the music for an hour. Then we returned to our place.
16
June 10th
I got up at 7:00. The morning was like yesterday. After
17
.
we drank tea we went all together to the bath which is 10
18
.
minutes from here in order to bathe. We paid 6 standard piasters each. Truly
19
.
this bath was very pleasing. It is made in the European style and women and men can
20
.
go there because it is entirely divided into rooms and pools in the European style.
21
.
We returned after an hour. This is our last day here in Cairo and tomorrow
22
.
we will take the train to Alexandria. So today we have nothing
23
.
to do. We breakfasted and asked the hotel owner to present
24
.
us with the bill. I really loved Cairo very much

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01
.
and am sad to leave it. I will certainly see no better. In the afternoon
02
.
Monsieur Auguste visited. We took him and went about bidding farewell to Egypt.
03
.
When we returned at sunset we found Effie's daughter Eveline at our place
04
.
with her husband and son. Her husband's name is Georges Kahil and truly
05
.
both of them are young, the girl probably 18 years old and the husband possibly
06
.
only 20. We were quite happy to see them and they us. They left after a half an hour
07
.
and we said our goodbyes. They told us that Effie directed them to give us her greetings since
08
.
she did not have time to come into town.
09
.

10
.

11
.


12
June 11th
I GOT UP IN THE morning at 6:00 because we have to prepare our things to travel by
13
.
the train that leaves at 9:30. So after drinking tea we arranged all our things.
14
.
At 8:00 Auguste arrived and Regina Madame Fara came down from
15
.
upstairs. A half an hour later we hired two carriages and bade goodbye to
16
.
Regina. We paid the hotel charges, which amounted to nearly 8 English
17
.
pounds, boarded the carriages, and rode to the railway station.
18
.
As soon as we arrived we got our tickets and took a place
19
.
in second class. They charge for the trunks here also. When, like this, we
20
.
came from Port Sa'id they took 10 francs for the two trunks. Then
21
.
Yousif Serpos, his wife and children, and Parson Boutros came
22
.
to bid us goodbye. At 9:30 the train whistled and we bade everyone goodbye,

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01
.
and especially Auguste was very upset by our parting, as were we.
02
.
He was our companion in Egypt, with us the whole time, and he never stinted in doing anything for us.
03
.
So we left Egypt behind. The train pulled out of the Station heading
04
.
toward Alexandria. I was truly quite sad to leave Cairo
05
Alexandria
for it is a city worth remembering and seeing and it is superior to all the places that
06
.
we have seen before. We departed at 9:30 / at 10:10 Benha, departed at 10:15 /
07
.
at 10:52 Tanta, departed at 11:05 / at 11:15 Kafr el-Zayyat, departed at 11:16 /
08
.
at 11:55 Damanhour, departed at 12:00 / at 12:40 Sidi-Gaber, departed at 12:45.
09
.
At 1:00 in the afternoon we arrived in Alexandria. Since I have
10
.
a friend here with whom I have kept up a correspondence for three years on the subject of stamps,
11
.
I had written him a letter from Cairo some days ago. I told him that I had arrived
12
.
here and would see him soon. He replied saying that he was quite pleased and would wait for me
13
.
at the station on the day of my arrival. When the train arrived at the station here I met
14
.
my friend. His name is S. E. Couddésu and he was very happy to see me. So immediately
15
.
we hired a carriage and loaded our trunks. We made up our minds before anything else to go and take
16
.
the cabin on the ship Sutlej Sutleg [Thomas and Cook ship] , which is one of the T. & C ships.
17
.
Then we rode through the streets of Alexandria and I was impressed by this construction
18
.
which is far superior to Cairo. We boarded the ship and took the cabin.
19
.
Couddésu was with us. After we left our trunks we returned by carriage
20
.
to have a better look at the town. So we toured its markets and locales. I saw
21
.
that it resembles Cairo to some extent. Although there are neither trees by the roads
22
.
nor big gardens its streets are paved with marble. Then we went to the post office to inquire if
23
.
there are letters for us from Baghdad. We did not find a thing and wondered
24
.
how it is that our family has not written anything to us by now. The last letter we received was in

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01
.
Beirut. It has been a long time and we have had no news at all from them. We returned to the ship at 3:00
02
.
because it will sail at 4:00. Then I gave my friend the stamps, a few
03
.
foreign stamps and others numbering about 50. He bade me goodbye and left. I also gave him a letter Antoine
04
.
Guilietti wrote to his Aunt here as a kind of recommendation and I begged of him to tell
05
.
Messieurs Bavastro et Sakakini that I deeply regretted not having seen them
06
.
in person. At 4:00 sharp the ship sailed from the Port
07
.
where there are about 100 ships, among them the ship Turkistan that came
08
.
from Basrah and will also sail immediately to Marseille. Truly
09
.
the port of Alexandria is excellent, pleasant and very large.
10
.
So we left the port and are now at sea. Our ship is extremely large and can transport nearly
11
.
5000 tons. Thank God it has a cargo and does not rock like the one we came on
12
.
from Beirut to Port Sa'id. It travels quite pleasantly
13
.
and does not upset us in the slightest. Here we made friends with a French man
14
.
named Monsieur Chartraine and his wife. He works at the railroad
15
.
in Cairo and is a good person. There are only 30 passengers with us, in both first and second
16
.
class. One thing is not good here and that is the food. It is quite insufficient. They serve
17
That was only at sunset but in the daytime they serve food about 4 times, but only a simple meal at sunset.
no more than two simple dishes. After supper which was at sunset 6:30,
18
.
I went up onto the deck of the ship. The moon was in its tenth day and cast
19
.
a lovely light onto this vast and violent sea. The weather was very cold here
20
.
and there was a great difference between here and Cairo. The clouds resembled winter days.
21
June 12
This morning the sea is fearsome and upsetting but not
22
.
so much and there are signs of its getting worse. I am quite afraid of it because
23
.
it pains me. The ship is very big and there is not much cargo.
24
.
We approached the shores of Greece just after noon. The wind blew

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01
.
hard and the ship tossed and turned more. I began to toss and turn inside also
02
.
and my health changed. In the afternoon we passed islands, the Ionian Islands, in the distance.
03
.
The ship never ceased rocking more and more, and I likewise, until sunset when I came to sit
04
.
at the table. My stomach turned and I went down to the cabin without eating
05
.
a morsel. I was feeling much worse and my insides turned all the more. I threw myself
06
.
on the bed and began to vomit unceasingly.
07
June 13
That night turned out to be the hardest night of my entire life.
08
.
Until now I had never suffered such agony which I continue to suffer
09
.
to this very moment. Left like a fish on the bed, from the tossing
10
.
of the accursed ship, I threw up nearly 15 times during the night and have been throwing up
11
.
like that until now. The sea is quite agitated and I feel my head
12
.
is being uprooted. They advised me that I should go up on deck but
13
.
it was even more miserable and until sunset I suffered the torments of martyrs.
14
.
This is the first time I have felt anything of this sort. May God help anyone in whose head
15
.
such a thing happens. I was in the same state until night, growing extremely weak and without
16
.
enough power in me to walk. I feared that this night would be like the previous one
17
.
so we sent for the physician and he gave me a sleeping draught. However, God be praised, the sea
18
.
became less agitated.
19
June 14th
Tonight I slept well though reeling from fatigue
20
.
and lack of food. From the day before yesterday until now I have eaten nothing
21
.
at all. Since we will arrive today in Brindisi I had to prepare my things for leaving
22
.
the ship and the accursed sea which I had begun to hate like the devil.
23
.
I longed for travel by land which is a thousand times better. After I drank

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01
.
a little tea I changed my clothes and arranged my things. I was devastated
02
.
by utter weakness and did not have the strength to take a step. At 7:00
03
.
the accursed ship began to toss and turn again and the sea grew more agitated. There is no power
04
.
and no strength save in God the Sublime and Mighty! Then I, in all my weakness, started
05
Brindisi
to get sick again. Truly if it were not that Brindisi is two hours from here
06
.
I would inevitably have died! Then I sat down at table and the ship
07
.
tossed and turned and finally went back and forth. This was because we had neared
08
.
the shores of Italy, that is to say, Brindisi. At 8:30 the ship entered the port
09
.
and settled somewhat. Then at 9:10 it proceeded to the shore or the Quai.
10
.
They lowered the gangway and we disembarked from the ship. I am happy at being separated from
11
.
the sea but distressed because of my utterly low spirits. What good health
12
.
I had gathered along the way I lost in a single day and night. Brindisi
13
.
resembles Port Sa'id a bit but all its people are Italians.
14
.
The town is not large but arranged like in Europe. We had hoped that
15
.
after our arrival we would leave here immediately but when we asked about the train
16
.
that goes to Naples they said that it had left 5 minutes ago.
17
.
There is another to Foggia, or half way to Naples,
18
.
which is due to leave at 1:10 in the afternoon. So we had to wait until
19
.
then. At 1:00 the train appeared so we took our things and went
20
.
to reserve a place in second class. Here in Italy there is a charge
21
.
by weight for travelers' trunks. They took 17 francs for our two trunks
22
.
as the fee direct to Naples. At 1:15 we traveled from Brindisi
23
.
by rail, then to stay overnight at a small town called Foggia

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01
.
because the direct road to Naples from here is very long and takes more than 15 hours.
02
.
Thus we arrived at 1:33 in S. Vito D'Otranto, left at 1:35 = 2:05 Carovigno, left 2:08 =
03
.
2:27 Ostouni, left 2:40 = 2:55 Cisternino, left 3:00 = 3:15 Fazano,
04
.
left 3:25 = 3:42 Monopoli, left 3:50 = 4:07 Polignanio, left 4:10 =
05
.
4:30 Mola, left 4:33 = 4:45 Noicattaro, left 4:57 = 5:15 Bori,
06
.
left 5:30. These three latter stations are very large & their
07
.
towns are also big. 5:50 New station, left 6:05 = 6:11 Molfetta,
08
.
left 6:15 = 6:30 Biceglia, left 6:33 = 6:42 , left 7:.. =
09
.
7:20 Barletta, left 7:28 = 7:44 Ofantino, left 7:46 = From
10
.
Brindisi to here, we were going alongside the sea but
11
.
now tooked the desert. = 8:15 Cirgnola, left 8:20 = 8:45 Ortonova,
12
.
left 8:47 = arrived @ 9:10 Foggia
.
13
.
We arrived here after sunset, darkness had set in but there is electric
14
.
and gas light in the streets. We got off the train, took a carriage, and went with someone
15
.
to a place where we could sleep. So we arrived there and the place did not look good. Yet we took a room
16
.
and ordered food. I have not stopped being weak and am not feeling well. After we had dinner
17
.
we went to bed. This place is called Albergo di Villa di Napoli.
18
June 15th
We got up in the morning at 5:00 because the train leaves
19
.
for Naples at 6:15. We rushed to prepare ourselves and paid
20
Foggia
the 7 francs that we owed. After we drank some milk
21
.
we went to the station and boarded the train that goes directly to Naples
22
.
without all the stops. Its name is Expresse.
23
.
From Foggia at 6:15 = 6:52. Bovino left 7:20 =

Page 095


01
.
7:37 Savignano left 7:40 = 7:50 Pianerottola L 7:57 =
02
.
Passed a long tunnel for 6 minutes = 8:00 Ariano L 8:03 =
03
.
8:20 Montegalvo, left 8:23 = 8:40 Apice-Argengelo L 8:42 =
04
.
8:49 Ponte-Valentino L 8:50 = 8:55 Benevento L 9:05 =
05
.
9:23 Casalduni Ponte L 9:25 = 9:35 Solopaga L 9:37 =
06
.
9:42 Terese Cereto L 9:45 = 9:56 Frasso-Dugenta L 9:58 =
07
.
Here, we passed under a bridge of 3 stages.
08
Naples
= 10:13 Madoloni L 10:15 = 10:25 Caserta L 10:35 =
09
.
10:52 Aversa L 10:55 = 11:00 Fratemajoregroma L 11:03 =
10
.
11:08 Afragola L 11:10 = Arrived Naples 11:15.

11
.
Thus, we neared the famous Naples little by little. From Foggia to
12
.
here we were traveling through pleasant green mountains with extremely beautiful scenery.
13
.
After we arrived at the station we hired a carriage, took our belongings, and went
14
.
to rent ourselves a room in a hotel called the Pension Suisse.
15
.
But it is small and dirty and we bargained to pay 18 francs a day. Because
16
.
I have a friend here with whom I correspond on the subject of stamps, I wrote a letter to him from
17
.
Brindisi so that he would come to the station and meet me. But upon my arrival
18
.
I did not see him and I suppose my letter did not reach him. After we finished breakfast
19
.
we went to look at the town which is as pleasant as ever
20
.
could be. It has buildings and parks such as we have not seen before
21
.
and likewise its palaces and theatres. It is on the sea and its location
22
.
is lovely. There are many people here, some 600,000 souls. Especially these
23
.
days when Sultan Humberto and his son and his daughter-in-law

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01
.
are in residence, the whole town, the markets, and palaces are adorned with flowers
02
.
and other things. It is true that Naples is a paradise. After we toured the city
03
.
I wanted to go and look for my friend because we are here by ourselves and do not know
04
Naples
anybody. So we tried and with great difficulty found his place in a long street called
05
.
Via Chiaja, number 20. I went up to his room and rang the bell.
06
.
A woman came out and told me that he was not at home but at his office, and would return
07
.
at 8:00, after sunset. So I wrote him a note telling him that I had arrived
08
.
in Naples and wished to see him. I also gave him my address and begged him
09
.
to come to my place as soon as possible. Then the woman immediately brought me a note
10
.
that my friend Monsieur D'Ovidio wrote saying that he did not
11
.
know when I would honor Naples and that only my letter from Cairo had reached him.
12
.
In his note he also asked me to give him my address. I was truly pleased
13
.
by this and forgave him for not coming to the station because my letter did not reach him
14
.
from Brindisi. So we returned from the street to our hotel to await
15
.
Monsieur D'Ovidio's arrival. We had not been there an hour when someone knocked at
16
.
the door of the room. I opened it and there was D'Ovidio himself. I greeted
17
.
him and he me and I introduced him to my parents. He was very happy that we had come and apologized
18
.
for being late, saying that his wife had just now sent him both my note and letter which I sent
19
.
from Brindisi that arrived with us on the same train.
20
.
After a long talk he presented himself to us as a true friend and said
21
.
that he was ready to be of service to us in everything we desire here and that he would go eat dinner
22
.
and afterwards return to take us for an evening tour of the enjoyable sites in Naples.
23
.
We dined and afterwards Monsieur D'Ovidio came and we left to wander about in

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01
.
the superb sights of Naples. The people swarmed like worms and the carriages were coming and going.
02
Naples
We passed whatever there was to look at. First we went first to the Teatro St. Carlo
03
.
and then to the Galleria and the Palais Royal. Then we went to the seaside
04
.
across from Mt. Vesuve which was erupting and we could see
05
.
fire covering the mountain. I really do not know what to say about Naples
06
.
and all its entertainments. Two hours later we returned to the hotel.
07
June 16th
June 16th The morning is pleasant and the weather here is good. The weather is not at all
08
.
hot. Yesterday we arranged with Monsieur D'Ovidio that he would come and get us at 10:00
09
.
and we would go to tour Naples in a coach. At 9:00 he sent me a letter by
10
.
one of his clerks expressing his regret but that he is extremely busy and it is impossible for him to accompany
11
.
us now but he sent his clerk and his carriage. So we entered
12
.
the carriage and went to the vicinity of famous and great places. We began to climb, little
13
.
by little, up into the mountains where the entire city came into view. What a beautiful sight it was,
14
.
on the sea and Mt. Vesuvius among other things, and those palaces hanging in
15
Napoli
the middle of the green mountains. We toured around the town and then descended and went to my friend's office.
16
.
It was then 1:30 and he promised to meet there so he could take us
17
.
to the Port, board a jolly boat and go to sea.
18
.
He was not ready when we arrived but after 10 minutes he came
19
.
and apologized for being unable to accompany us in the morning. Then we went to the seashore,
20
.
boarded a boat and went out to sea. How pleasant was the view of
21
.
the town from the sea. Then the sea grew rough and the jolly boat began
22
.
to toss and turn. I remembered my time on the ship and my stomach grew

Page 098


01
.
upset. I asked him to take us back to shore because the wind at sea pains me.
02
.
We went back after an hour. Here in the harbor there are two Ports,
03
Naples
one for the navy and the other for trade, and it has a Phare that is
04
.
a lighthouse on the sea. Anchored in the naval harbor were two Italian warships.
05
.
One of them, named the Sardaigna, has 7 funnels and is extremely large.
06
.
At sunset we returned to our place having decided that we would go after
07
.
dinner to the Theatre, that is, to the Opera called San Carlo.
08
.
We bought the tickets for two francs each. Before we returned to the hotel my friend
09
.
took us to walk by the sea. On one side is a big garden and the sea
10
.
is on the other. The most pleasant of all places in Naples are here. The carriages
11
.
and people were passing like the sands of the sea and they say that in the entire world
12
.
one will not find as pleasant a sight as this place. Finally we returned and so too
13
.
did Monsieur D'Ovidio return home. It was decided that we would wait for him at the theater door,
14
.
that is, at 9:00. We returned at 8:30 to the theater. We waited for him until
15
.
arrived. We entered and took our seats. I was fascinated by this entryway and such a beautiful scene.
16
.
The performance began and there were about 1000 persons in the audience. They were
17
.
performing the drama according to the ordering of the Orchestra. The music was
18
.
playing and accompanied their singing. The scene was truly quite humbling.
19
.
They performed a ballet afterward, which captured the gaze of all those present,
20
.
and they applauded them as a sort of expression of gratitude. The drama did not end until an hour
21
.
past midnight. Then we left the theater and exchanged goodbyes with my friend. He said
22
.
that tomorrow he would come to say goodbye before my departure. The train
23
.
leaves at 8:15 in the morning.

Page 099


01
June 17th
We got up in the morning and the weather was fine with a westerly wind. We drank
02
.
tea hastily and afterwards arranged our things and paid the hotel bill.
03
.
We then hired a carriage, went to the station, and took our seats. I was
04
.
sad having not seen Monsieur D'Ovidio again. It is possible he had forgotten
05
.
to come. The train set out from Naples at 8:20, heading
06
.
toward Rome. I am sorry to be parted from this utterly lovely town.
07
.
8:44 Cancello, L 8:45 = 8:59 Caserta, L 9:01 =
08
.
9:08 S. Maria, L 9:09 = 9:15 Capua, L 9:17 =
09
.
9:34 Saparanise, L 9:35 = 9:49 Teano, L 9:51 =
10
.
10:03 Canianolla, L 10:05 = 10:40 Cassino , L 10 :43 =
11
.
11:04 Roccasecca, left 11:05 = 11:16 Ceprano, L 11:21 =
12
.
11:42 Ceccano , L 11:43 = 11:53 Frosinone, L 11:57 =
13
.
12:29 Segni, left 12:34 = 1:15 Ciocupino, left 1 :16. =

14
.

15
.


16
.
From here the famous Rome appeared to us at a distance. The first thing that came into view
17
.
was the precious dome of Saint Peter's Cathedral. We arrived at the station at 1:30 and after
18
.
we hired a carriage and loaded our belongings we rode through the markets and streets to find
19
.
a hotel. Today is a major holy day, Corpus Christi Day, and all the shops are
20
.
closed and one finds only a few open. The people are also very scarce in the streets.
21
.
Finally we looked at two hotels and found one that is small and nice but for lodging only,

Page 100


01
.
for 7 francs a day. It is called the Hotel d'Orient and is in the Piazza
02
.
Pole, number 8. The hotel overlooks a large square and a square to one side,
03
.
called Piazza Colona. After we took two rooms and left our things
04
Rome
we went out to eat at a Restaurent. After eating we returned to
05
.
our lodgings. In the afternoon we went to the residence of the head of the Carmelite Fathers to ask if
06
.
he had a letter addressed to us from Baghdad. He said he had nothing
07
.
and if any letter comes he will send it to us. He is a very pleasant man and placed himself
08
.
at our disposal for anything we might need here. So we asked him only if he might send
09
.
a guide with us when we visit the Vatican. He said that tomorrow he would send a priest from
10
.
his parish church to accompany us there. Then we thanked him for his kindness and left. Since
11
.
I have a letter of recommendation from the son of Ossany Boutros in Baghdad, to his brother
12
.
here, Gabriel in the Propaganda Propaganda: Branch of the Catholic Church entrusted with expanding Catholicism and of managing Church affairs in non-Catholic countries. This branch of the Church operated in non-Catholic Europe, the Middle East, the Americas, and elsewhere. A few years after Alexander’s travels, it expanded its operations under the direction of Pope Pious X. , I wished to see him. So we went to
13
.
the Propaganda and saw some Chaldean and Syriac priests at the door.
14
.
Then by chance as the scholars were leaving for the break I saw Mikha'il, the son of
15
.
Nazo a resident of Baghdad, and greeted him. I was quite pleased to see a son of
16
.
our homeland. Speaking of Gabriel Ossany, they told me that he is busy at the moment
17
.
but he will have time tomorrow afternoon. So I gave the letter to Mikha'il
18
.
for delivery. We returned at sunset to the hotel and afterwards went
19
.
to dine at the Restaurent in the Piazza Colona.
20
.
Here we listened to the Italian military band play music. There was a huge crowd
21
.
of people coming and going in this square which is as large
22
.
as two thousand cubits in length and width. At 9:30 we returned to our lodgings.

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01
June 19
I got up in the morning and the weather was cloudy and a bit rainy. After we drank tea
02
Saint Peter's Basilica Basilique St. Pietro
we changed our clothes and I went with my father to the Dominican Fathers because
03
.
we have letters of recommendation to them from His Grace the Papal Legate in Mosul.
04
.
We finally found their residence which was in the Piazza Tretone. We entered
05
Rome Roma
and presented our card to a door-keeper priest and he returned and said that the Father General
06
.
is engaged and is not accepting anyone. We were truly annoyed very much by
07
.
this and understood that there had been a mistake. So we said to him, here is a letter to him from the Papal Legate, give it to him.
08
.
And here is another to the Père Procureur,
09
.
give that to him too with our greetings. He then said, "You had best wait until I return
10
.
for an answer." He came back 10 minutes later and said, "If you please," took us and we went
11
.
to the great monastery to the Père Procureur whose name is
12
.
Père Cronier. He received us with a hearty welcome for he had received
13
.
news of our coming. Then after a long talk he said, "It is possible that I can go
14
.
with you to the Superior," because we came to ask the Superior for a letter
15
.
of recommendation to Vienna. So we went to the Superior General, whose name is Père Bodin Père Bodin .
16
.
He came and received us appearing to be very much a man of fine character.
17
.
He apologized for having been busy and we had a long talk with him about Turkey. Afterwards
18
.
we begged a letter of recommendation from him to Vienna and he immediately wrote one and gave it to us.
19
.
Likewise he wrote another to the Head of the Vatican asking
20
.
him to show us around all the places of the Vatican. We had decided that
21
.
tomorrow we would go in the morning because it will be open from 8:00 to 1:00 in the afternoon.
22
.
Then we thanked him for his kindness and we returned to our residence. A few minutes later, there came to us

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01
S. Sebastian No. 10
a Carmelite priest sent by the head priest at whose place we had been yesterday
02
.
and we arranged with him that he would come tomorrow at 8:00 and take us to the Vatican
03
.
and show us around everything. But after breakfast we went
04
.
to see Saint Peter's Basilica, famed in all the world
05
.
and the like of which is not found in all the inhabited lands. So we hired a carriage.
06
.
We came to its square at 1:00 in the afternoon. We were stunned when we saw
07
.
the courtyard outside the Basilica which is larger than the Piazza Colona
08
.
by 5 times. It is also encircled by pillars in 4 rows, like this. On
09
.
the right and left there are two fountains than which there is none more magnificent.
10
.
We approached the door of the church and entered into the middle of the Basilica. We were amazed by
11
.
what we saw of refined marble work and by the size of the church, which is 500 paces in length
12
.
and 200 in width. It also has a dome which exceeds 500 feet in height. In truth
13
.
they are right when they say that this basilica has no peer in all the world. This is the truth
14
.
and it is impossible to elucidate in writing what is in it. This is the best of all
15
.
the sights we have seen from Baghdad to here. Inside the church there are
16
.
about 25 thrones and the graves of all the Popes and statues of human figures. It is something that
17
.
astounds one. It also has 6 very large doors and is constructed entirely of porphyry,
18
.
excellent and polished. In short, whatever I say will be too little said about this Basilica that has become famous
19
.
in all the lands of the earth. After we looked around for about two hours and a half, we returned to
20
.
our place wondering at the works of mankind. I wrote a number of letters to Baghdad,
21
.
that is to Nassoury, Jamil, Johnny Pahlawan, Father Philips, Mr. Demello and Rozario,
22
.
our servant Mansour, and Albert Asfar. I also wrote a postcard to my friend Hana Tabouni
23
.
in Marseilles informing him that I will be with him in only a few days and then sent them all by post.

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01
June 20
The morning is cloudy. Last night I was out of sorts and a little feverish.
02
Getti X Corso Diluix Porta Lalona
This was possibly from total fatigue. At 8:00 the priest came who
03
.
it had been decided would accompany us on the visit to the Vatican. But first we took him and went to see
04
The Vatican
Cardinal Jerome Cardinal Jerome who 5 years ago was Head of the Carmelite Priests Carmelite Priests: The Order of the Brothers of Our Lady of Mount Carmel or Carmelites. A Roman Catholic religious order founded in the 12th century on Mount Carmel, Israel. .
05
.
His residence is not far from our hotel. So we arrived there and the Father went in to get us
06
.
permission to see him. Then we entered the house which was large and ascended to the room
07
.
of the Cardinal's private secretary. They told us that Cardinal Jerome was busy at the moment and that 10 minutes later
08
.
he would greet us. After he finished we went in to him. He received us cheerfully and we sat
09
.
in the diwan. He is a person with very good manners. After the conversation we arose
10
.
and left his place. The Cardinal's private secretary named ...[illegible] asked us about Father Anastas Marini Father Anastas Marini
11
.
and sent him his regards. Then we left the Cardinal's residence and took the Omnibus to
12
.
the Vatican square. We arrived there at 9:15 and my health continued to
13
.
decline. Thus we arrived at the gate of the Vatican where there are some of the Papal Guards
14
.
who protect the Pope without wages. Then we went up about 100 wide steps
15
Vatican
and here got tickets to visit the whole Vatican. As for the Vatican
16
.
they say that it is the largest of all the palaces in the whole world. It was
17
.
founded by the Popes Symmachus and Tiberius Popes Symmachus and Tiberius: Pope Symmachus (498-514CE) built two episcopal residences in the Vatican, one on either side of the basilica, to be used for brief stays. in
18
.
1473 and has 22 courtyards and 11,000 huge rooms decorated with
19
.
refined gilding and paintings, famous for color and unique in all the world
20
.
for their perfection because they were done by the brush of Raphael Angelo, the premier painter of
21
.
all the ages who spent his entire life working on the Vatican. The first place
22
.
we saw was the Sixtine (Sistine Chapel) where the Pope celebrates mass on

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01
.
holidays. It is 40 meters long and contains very famous paintings, among them a unique picture
02
.
which is behind the throne and is as large as the entire wall. It is of the Last Judgment and the finest thing
03
.
that ever was. And all the walls and ceilings have pictures on them of all kinds. After leaving
04
The Vatican Vatican
the chapel there was the room of Rapl Angelo Rapl. Angelo: Possible reference to Rafael (Sanzio da Urbino), famous painter active in the 16th century. He has a series of namesake rooms in the Vatican, which are noted for their large frescoes. Noted for such works as The School of Athens and the Baptism of Constantine. and then we came to the Galleries of Paintings
05
.
which was founded in the time of Pope Pius VII. In it are some paintings which are priceless
06
.
forever and incomparable. As for the Galleries of Paintings The Galleries of Paintings: [in the Sistine Chapel] Established in 1815 by Pius VII, although officially begun under his predecessor Pius VI in 1799. Contains a number of paintings by well-known artists, including Da Vinci and Caravaggio. During the time of Alexander’s travels, the paintings were contained in the Borgia Apartments. , in it are some 50 rooms filled
07
.
with the finest brush paintings to be found on earth. In one room I saw a large picture,
08
.
nearly 30 meters long, a gift of the Sultan of Austria Sultan of Austria: Alexander may be referring erroneously to a painting by Jan Matejko, entitled John III Sobieski at Vienna. Matejko painted this scene in the mid-19th century in Poland, not under Ottoman rule. The painting is very large; Alexander’s size estimates may have been an exaggeration. It is contained in the “Sobieski” room of the Vatican galleries. http://www.galenfrysinger.com/vatican_city.htm to the Pope. It depicts
09
.
the Siege of Vienna by the Turks and is, in short, a most excellent thing. After we finished
10
.
with this place we went up to the Gallery of Antiquities, or the Meseum,
11
.
which is unique in the world for the ancient Roman antiques it contains, like
12
.
idols, animals and other things that astound a person. There are some 100 rooms full
13
.
of these sorts of things. Here I saw the Pope's Confessor and the Pope's Private Secretary
14
.
passing by on the loggia. On all the loggias there are guards dressed in official uniforms stationed
15
.
to keep watch. It was 11:30 and, thus far, we have not seen but half of the Vatican quarter.
16
.
I am feeling quite poorly and became extremely tired from walking without ever stopping.
17
.
Finally we came up to the top floor. From here Rome is visible to him, with all its churches and houses.
18
.
This place is the private residence of the Pope so we obtained permission and visited his diwan and the place
19
.
where he sits at times when the Sultans and Princes come to visit him. It is a most excellent diwan
20
.
and a sight to be seen. There are two things left that we have not yet seen and these are the Gallery of Books
21
.
and the Gallery of Treasures. For that purpose special permission was necessary
22
.
from the Director General. As for the Gallery of Books, it contains more than 100,000 volumes

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01
.
in all tongues on earth and the Gallery of Treasures contains all the tiaras
02
.
in addition to the Stone of ...[illegible] Stone of [illegible] . Then we went down from the Vatican and it was 12:00, the time when
03
.
they close the doors. So we took the Omnibus, went directly to the Restaurent,
04
.
and had breakfast. I am quite feverish and so we returned to the hotel where I was seized by a raging fever
05
.
which continued to rise until nighttime.
06
June 21
Today is Sunday and a pleasant morning with sun. This
07
.
night I was suffering quite a bit from the high fever that was with me
08
.
until morning when it dropped somewhat. However I had grown very weak and could not
09
.
get out of bed. Only at sunset did I change my clothes
10
.
and go to eat in the Restaurent.
11
June 22
I got up in the morning and the weather was fine. We decided to visit
12
.
the Collosseum or the very ancient Amphiteatre that the Romans
13
.
were using as a theatre. In it they released wild beasts to attack people
14
Collosseum
while the populace looked on. So at 8:30 we hired a carriage and went toward these ancient constructions
15
.
outside the city. They were built in 72 A.D. during the time of Vespasian.
16
.
The Collosseum consists of 3 stories of arches and every story
17
.
has 80 arches in it, each story with a different style. The first is Doric,
18
.
the second Jonic (Ionic), and the third Corinthian. In this Collosseum
19
.
over a period of 100 years 500 wild animals were killed. It is 157 feet high,
20
.
278 feet long, and 177 feet wide, and in it could be seated more than
21
.
100,000 people. Truly this place is a wondrous thing
22
.
and one of the most ancient constructions. We left the Collosseum

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01
.
and came to other ancient remains. This is called the Arch of Constantine,
02
.
a great arch of stone inscribed from top to bottom and adorned
03
.
with ancient images. They also call it the Arch of Triomph
04
.
and it is one of the finest remains of Rome. It was built in 315 A.D. and
05
Rome Roma
many more ancient remains are next to it, the creations of the earliest
06
.
Romans. To this very moment they have been left as they were and are well looked after. We returned
07
.
two hours later to the hotel. At 1:00 in the afternoon I wished to go
08
.
once more to the Propoganda to see Mikhail Nazo and especially Gabriel Ossany and
09
.
whom I had not yet seen. So we all went there and asked for him. They came right away and were
10
.
very pleased to meet with people from their homeland. Then they promised us to get permission
11
.
from the Principal so they could come with us tomorrow to visit the famous Basilica of Saint Paul,
12
.
the same as the Basilica of Saint Peter. They also told us that it is now the Feast of Saint Ignatius
13
.
and that there is a church here dedicated to him. Today it is decorated and we must see it.
14
.
So we left their place and I promised them I would return in two hours to see if
15
.
they had gotten the permission. Otherwise we would travel to Marseille tomorrow.
16
.
After we returned to the hotel, we went to visit the Church of Saint Ignatius and saw that it was full crowded
17
.
of people. The Orgue was playing, the people were glorifying God, there was a great tumult, and it was quite
18
.
lovely. It is half as large as the Basilica of Saint Peter and contained some
19
.
3000 souls and yet there was much space. After we toured everything
20
.
we left and wanted to visit the Pantheon which is the mausoleum of King Victor Emmanuel,
21
.
the Sultan of Italy, but we found the door closed and admissions closed.
22
.
However from the outside the place appeared very large and lofty.
23
.
At 4:30 I went to Mikhail and Gabriel. They told me that the Principal gave them
24
.
permission and they will meet us at the hotel tomorrow at 10:00.

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01
June 22
This morning is pleasant with a westerly wind. Today my health is much improved.
02
.
At 9:30 after we had changed our clothes, Mikhail and Gabriel came to our place. We talked
03
St Paul's Basilica Basilique St. Paul
at length about Baghdad. I showed them photographs of some people and they gave us theirs and
04
.
other things. An hour later they left promising to come at 4:30 in the afternoon
05
.
to accompany us to the Basilica of St. Paul. So at 4:30 they kept their word
06
.
and came to us. They brought Father Samuel Jamil, the Chaldean who
07
.
has been here for some time and knows Father Yousif Taweel who is in Beirut.
08
.
Then we left together and we went by the Tramway to the Basilica of St. Paul.
09
.
We arrived there half an hour later and went in. We were truly quite amazed by
10
.
its size, the varieties of marble inside, and the Mosaïque images,
11
.
something bewildering. This craft appears to be quite well known in Rome
12
.
because they make with it large, masterful and very pleasant images. So inside
13
.
this famous basilica which is second only to the Basilica of St. Peter
14
.
there are countless marble works. But what kind of marble is this that is comparable to
15
.
gold? To the right of the entrance is a pulpit made of green marble
16
.
and they told me that this is the equivalent of yellow gold. On the left hand
17
.
many pillars extend to the interior or to the doorway, that is to say, about 180
18
.
pillars of excellent porphyry, tall and shining from a single block.
19
.
Likewise on the side walls and above the area surrounding the pillars, one finds pictures
20
.
of all those who had become Popes wholly done in Mosaïque work. In the middle
21
.
of the basilica one finds the Tomb of Saint Paul, but his body only, because
22
.
they claim that his head when it was cut off was buried elsewhere. For that reason

Page 108


01
.
there is another church that bears the name of Saint Paul, but much smaller than this one.
02
.
The Basilica of St. Paul is considered one of the most perfect basilicas in the world and second only to the Basilica
03
Basilica Basilique
of St. Peter which has no peer in all the world. This basilica,
04
.
the Basilica of St. Paul, had been greatly damaged by a fire Fire: [in St.Paul's Basillica] Reference to Basilica of St. Paul Outside the Walls, built over the grave of St. Paul in the 4th century CE. The referenced fire occurred in 1823 and damaged significant portions of the church. The church was re-consecrated in 1855. 27 years ago.
05
.
The entire roof collapsed and most of the fine images were destroyed. From that time
06
.
to this the basilica has been undergoing rebuilding and also some of the buildings outside it
07
.
are still in renovations. We finished looking around,
08
.
and went outside with the other people there. On one side there is an area for refreshing oneself.
09
.
They sell wine and other things so we sat there for about a half an hour
10
.
and afterwards took the Tramway and returned to town. The basilica is
11
.
outside the town two miles away. It is ...[blank] feet in length
12
.
and its width is likewise ...[blank] feet. On our way to the hotel we entered
13
.
another church, which is called The Church of Jésus. It is also very pleasantly
14
.
decorated. It contains a wondrous picture and the Tomb of Saint Ignatius.
15
.
Then we returned to the hotel at sunset and exchanged goodbyes with Mikhail, Gabriel, and
16
.
Father Jamil. We must leave tomorrow. I am truly very grateful
17
.
for all the kindness they have shown me.
18
.

19
.


20
June 23
I was up at 6:00. It is a pleasant morning with a little of chill. After
21
.
I dressed and drank tea I arranged my things and bound them up in preparation
22
.
for the journey. At 7:30 we left the Hotel d'Orient and paid their bill of 42 francs.

Page 109


01
.
We hired a carriage, stowed our things, and drove to the train station.
02
.
After we arrived we freighted our two trunks directly to Marseille and paid the bill of
03
Genoa Génes
28 francs. We boarded the Express train that goes swiftly and without
04
.
delay. So at 8:00 sharp, we left the Rome station.
05
.
9:25 Civatavecchia, left 9:30 / 9:46 Corvetto, left 9:47 =
06
.
10:40 Orbettelo, left 10:55 = 11:25 Grosetto , left 11:32 =
07
.
12:25 Campiglia , left 12:30 = 1:05 Cecena,left 1:16 =
08
.
1:52 Celle salvetti , left 1:55 / 2:15 Pisa a big town,
09
.
left 2:30 = 2:44 Vareggio, left 2:47 = 3:05 Pietrasanta, left 3:07/
10
.
3:20 Massa , left 3:21 = 3:26 Spetzia , left 3:28 =
11
.
3:40 Sarzana ,left 3:45 = 3:53 Vezzano, left 3:55 =
12
.
4:40 Levanto, ... 4:43 here we passed several
13
.
tunnels for 2 hours we were going each 1 second
14
.
under a long tunnel of 5 & 10 minutes I counted
15
.
about 50 & always alongside the sea.
16
.
4:58 Sestri Levanto, left 5:00 / 5:25 Chiavari, left 5:30.
17
.
At 6:37 we arrived at the Genoa station and went into the town. We saw
18
.
some 20 of the hotels' private carriages awaiting the passengers and so we took the carriage
19
.
of the Hotel de Genéve and rode to the hotel. We arrived and took
20
.
two rooms. I was feeling very weak from exhaustion. Before sunset we went to
21
.
a church across from the hotel, named Annunziata, that is, the Church of the Annunciation Church of the Annunciation: Basilica della Santissima Annunziata, is a Catholic cathedral (1520) located in Genoa, Italy. .
22
.
I was truly amazed by the work inside the church. The ceilings all had pictures
23
.
and gilding with frames matching the style of the building, astonishing. The church is also large and quite nice.

Page 110


01
.
Then we returned to the hotel and ate dinner. Afterwards we slept.
02
June 24
We arose at 7:00 and after washing and drinking tea came down
03
.
and paid the hotel bill, that is, 12 francs. The meal they had served
04
.
yesterday was not good at all and very costly. Genoa is quite a large town,
05
.
as large as Naples. It is pleasant and organized like Rome. It has electric carriages
06
.
and other things. After we finished at the hotel we took the carriage and went to
07
.
the station to travel to Nice. We arrived at the station at 8:30.
08
.
The train does not depart until 9:20 so we sat and waited in the station.
09
.
At 9:00 we boarded the train and at 9:20 it pulled out of the station leaving Genoa at 9:30
10
.
9:30 Sanpierd, left 9:32 = 9:44 Corniliagno, left 9:45/
11
.
9:59 Pegli, left 10:01 = 10:09 Voltri, left 10:10 =
12
.
10:27 Arenzano,left 10:30 = 10:40 Cogoletto, left 10:41 =
13
.
10:59 Gella, left 11:00 = 11:06 Albisolla, left 11:07 =
14
.
11:15 Savona, left 11:25 = 11:38 Berjeggi, left 11:39 =
15
.
11:50 Noli, left 11:51 = 11:59 Varigotti, left 12:00 =
16
.
12:05 Finalemarina, left 12:10 = 12:14 Bergo ,left 12:15 =
17
.
12:20 Pietrligure, left 12:21 = 12:27 Lòno, left 12:30 =
18
.
12:45 Albenga, left 12:47 = 1:00 Alassio, left 1:03 =
19
.
1:16 Andora, left 1:17 = 1:28 Cervo, left 1:29 =
20
.
1:37 Onuglia, left 1:39 = 1:50 Porto Morizo, left 1:53 =
21
.
2:03 San Lorenzo, left 2:20 = 2:20 Taggia, left 2:30 =
22
.
2:32 San Remo, left 2:35 = 2:55 Bordighesa, left 2:59 =

Page 111


01
.
Then at 3:10 we arrived at Vintmiglia (Ventimiglia). We got off the train here because
02
.
this is where Italy ends and the French borders begin. There are customs here too.
03
.
So we took our things and went through customs. After the inspection we took them and went
04
.
to a French railway car that goes directly to Paris, passing through Marseille.
05
.
We found it more suitable that we go from here directly to Marseille and not stop
06
.
in Nice. So we boarded the train. Here the
07
.
time is different and one hour less than in Italy. So we set back
08
.
our watches to an hour less and the train departed with us from Vintmiglia
09
.
at 3:05 French time.
10
.
3:17 Mentone, left 3:19 = here, I have two people with whom I correspond.
11
.
3:58 Mont Carlo, left 4:02 = 4:06 Monaco, left 4:07 =
12
.
4:23 Beaulieu,left 4:25 = 4:29 Villefranche, left 4:30 =
13
.
4:34 Nice Niqueur, left 4:35 = 4:37 Nice .
14
.
Since there is an eating place here we stopped for a long time and we bought dinner
15
.
to eat in the carriage. At 5:03 the train left.
16
.
5:25 Antibes, left 5:28/ 5:45 Cannes, left 5:50 =
17
.
This extremely beautiful area is well known all over the world. It lays on the seaside
18
.
surrounded by many trees and houses. Even kings come
19
.
here to enjoy the fresh air, and especially to Nice because of its very fine weather.
20
.
6:33 St. Raphail,left 6:37 = 6:42 Fréjus,left 6:44 =
21
.
7:12 Les Arcs, left 7:38 = 8:55 Hyres, left 8:57 =
22
.
9:07 Toulon, left 9:22 = 11:49 Marseille.

Page 112


01
.

02
Coming and Going

03
.
Our arrival by train at this pleasant town was at 11:47 after sunset.
04
.
We got off the train and hired a carriage straight away. Then we rode among streets lined
05
Marseille
with excellent buildings. All the going and coming in the markets had somewhat
06
.
lessened as midnight neared. Then we came to the hotel where
07
.
we had written to have our friend here, Nassoury Sayegh, to make arrangements for us. We knocked at the door
08
.
and the hotel owner opened it and admitted us. He immediately gave us rooms. The
09
.
name of this hotel is Rubi at No.103 Rue Paradis. After we entered
10
.
and put things in order we went to sleep. It was 12:00.
11
June 25
I got up in the morning and the weather was fine but getting hot with a
12
.
westerly wind. After we dressed, at 9:30 I went with my father to look
13
Marseille
for Monsieur Nassoury Sayegh. We went to 29 rue St. Jacques
14
.
for we knew from earlier that he is there. Then we knocked and they told us that
15
.
he is at the office and that this place is only where he lives, but he works at 27 rue
16
.
des Princes. So we went there and found him. We were pleased to see him and he us. I had not
17
.
met him before. He gave us several letters addressed to me from Baghdad and the homeland. From the Baghdad
18
.
letters I learned of the death of Monsieur Vasilaki, thanks to Yaqoub Shamani
19
.
and of other things beside, but we have not heard anything from our family
20
.
since Beirut. We left Nassoury's office
21
.
at 10:00. He promised to come visit us in the afternoon. Today I looked
22
.
for my friend Hanna Tabouni here but I did not know the way

Page 113


01
.
to his place on 23 Boulevard des Dames. In the afternoon Nassoury came to see us
02
.
and near sunset we spent some time touring around with him. Nassoury is alone
03
.
in town because his wife and son have gone out of town for a change of air to
04
Marseille
a place half an hour away. I found out from
05
.
Nassoury how to go and see Hanna Tabouni at his place. I learned that
06
.
I would take the tram so I took the tram on which was written
07
.
Joliette and Castillan right away, paying 10 centimes for it. After
08
.
15 minutes I arrived at the street. I got off and looked for the number.
09
.
I found it and went up to his place and knocked at the door. An elderly woman came
10
.
and told me that he was not there and had gone out. So I wrote him a card and told
11
.
him that we arrived yesterday evening, that I would love to see him, and he should come after
12
.
dinner to such and such hotel in such and such street and number. Then I took
13
.
the tram back to rue St. Jacques. I arrived at
14
.
the hotel. I waited for Hanna until he returned at 7:30. I was quite pleased
15
.
when I saw him and remembered our friends, family, and Baghdad. I stayed with him
16
.
for about an hour and then we went out together at 9:00 and toured the streets. We went
17
.
to the Cannebière, an area very distinguished and pleasant. People were
18
.
bustling about as abundant as worms. I said goodbye to him here and told him to come to me tomorrow morning.
19
.
He is employed at a commercial shipping company for 100 francs a month.
20
.
I returned to the hotel by myself on the tram at 10:30 .
21
.
Stuffy weather. After I woke up, the weather is quite warm, my friend
22
.
Hanna Tabouni came to see me. He stayed until just about 7:30 and promised us that he would return tomorrow

Page 114


01
.
so we could go and hear mass at church. Tomorrow is Sunday. At
02
.
9:30 we went to Khowaja Nassoury's place. I settled an account I had with him
03
.
and took the remaining money, 242 francs. We returned to our residence
04
.
and afterwards, the three of us went to the bath which is not far from us and is called Bains Paradis Bains Paradis .
05
Marseille
We bathed and paid 3 francs. Yesterday Hanna told me that
06
.
Razouk Rafi, our friend in Baghdad, had come to Marseille on the ship Turkistan Turkistan: [ship]
07
.
4 days ago and he promised to send him to see me in the afternoon. At the hotel
08
.
we found the trunk that we had shipped from Baghdad before coming
09
.
here. It contains some provisions like dates and arak and other things. After breakfast
10
.
we opened it and I found my book of stamps too, that is to say, the album I shipped
11
.
here. Then in the afternoon Razouk Rafi arrived and I was extremely happy to see him.
12
.
He had recently arrived from Basrah on the ship Turkistan, which docked 5 days ago
13
.
and will continue on to London. So I took Razouk Rafi and we walked the passages and environs of
14
.
the lovely Marseille. Marseille truly delighted me very much. It is the most recent town I
15
.
have found so pleasant and it has a very highly regarded port. At sunset
16
.
we returned and I found Monsieur Sayegh at our hotel. He proposed that tomorrow, Sunday, we will go
17
.
and have breakfast at his place. He is not in town having gone to spend the summer in the country, that is
18
.
in Montredon. He gave us the address of his house. After
19
.
dinner we went out to the area around Cannebière Cannebière . We were astonished to see
20
.
so many people and such liveliness in the street. This is the best of all the streets one finds
21
June 26
in these districts. We returned an hour later to
22
.
our hotel.

Page 115


01
June 27
I got up early in the morning in order to wait for Hanna Tabouni and Razouk
02
.
so we could go hear mass in an excellent church on the mountain. Its name is
03
Marseille
Notre Dame de la Garde Notre Dame de la Garde . The weather is quite sultry and about to become hot and there is no wind.
04
.
Then at 7:15 they arrived and a half hour later we went to a place
05
.
where we could go up the mountain. There is an Assensessenur here in which they go up.
06
.
We all took seats and paid 40 centimes for each person. We ascended in this
07
.
fine machine which consists of a car moving along the wall to the top
08
.
of the mountain. When we reached the top the car drew level with the walkway and we got out.
09
.
The weather was very hot. First we came to a spot below
10
Our Lady of the Garde Notre Dame de la Garde
the church where there was a place with some pictures and holy relics. On the left there was
11
.
a statue of Jesus dying. Afterwards we climbed up to the church. The
12
.
mass was just beginning and so we listened. The church is not very big
13
.
but it is lofty and has a very large statue on top of the dome. They say
14
.
that in the crown people enter and the eyes of the statue are binoculars
15
.
that look from a distance on the ships coming in and those in danger because
16
.
the church is on the sea. All Marseille is visible below and the view
17
.
is extremely beautiful. There were many people on top, about 400 or 500. Some of them brought their breakfast with them
18
.
to eat it there. After we looked at everything we went down on the pathway and not
19
.
by the descending car. We were truly quite tired because the descent is difficult from such
20
.
a height. We reached the bottom and walked back to the hotel amid lovely trees.
21
.
This was on the Boulevard N. Dame. We returned to our lodgings
22
.
at 10:30 and waited a half an hour. Then we went to the Rue de Rome

Page 116


01
.
to take the Omnibus to Nassoury's place. We took the bus
02
.
to Montredon where Nassoury is. We arrived after half an
03
.
hour and paid 35 centimes each. Nassoury greeted us at the door of his house
04
.
and we entered his small but pleasantly situated house by the sea
05
.
with a very fresh breeze. We also saw his wife and son and at noon broke our fast.
06
Marseille
At 3:00 we returned by the omnibus to the hotel. Nassoury's wife is very quiet
07
.
and sensible and about 35 years old. At the door of the hotel we saw Hanna and Razouk
08
.
waiting for us in order to go to the animal garden, or
09
.
the Jardin Zoologique Jardin Zoologique . So we went to the Rue Cannebière and took the
10
.
Tramway to Longchamps. We arrived and found
11
.
this road was very pleasant with trees on both sides. We reached the zoological
12
.
garden and before everything else went into the picture gallery which is also
13
.
nice. We then climbed to a high place among flowers and greenery
14
Marseille
before we went down to the garden which was full of people.
15
.
Music was playing in the middle and because today is Sunday all those who
16
.
enter do so for free. We looked around at the different animals. We saw
17
.
various kinds of birds, ducks, geese, and camels, and different kinds of mountain sheep, and
18
.
white, black and grizzly bears, and zebras, elephants, lions and monkeys
19
.
and other things that are certainly worth seeing. We continued to wander around for about two hours
20
.
and at sunset took a carriage and returned to our place.
21
June 28
The morning is pleasant with a westerly wind. After we finished
22
.
getting dressed, that is at 9:00, Monsieur Tiers arrived. He is Nassoury's broker, who

Page 117


01
.
works at his office, a man of about 40 years. He had agreed to take us around
02
.
the shops to buy a number of things. So we went with him to the largest shops
03
Marseille
and bought some clothes and other necessities. We returned in the afternoon to our place.
04
.
At 3:30 I went to Nassoury's and wrote him a bill of exchange from my mother to Baghdad
05
.
in the amount of 1,000 francs. He said that in half an hour he would come and bring it with him. Then I went
06
.
out to look around the shops for silk yarn for knitting to send to
07
.
Rosa my maternal uncle's daughter. I found in one shop and bought a large quantity, some
08
.
200 grams. They made it into two parcels for me to send by post and I took them to
09
.
the Central post office, or the main post office. All the clerks
10
.
are young 18 to 20 year old girls. I asked of them to post the parcels
11
.
for me but they refused saying the parcels were too large. They said it would better if I made them into
12
.
three parcels. So I was obliged to return to the shop to ask them to divide the two parcels into three for me
13
.
and this they did. I returned to our residence and found that Nassoury had come and taken my parents
14
.
to tour around. I tried to follow but did not find them. I passed one of the booksellers
15
.
and bought two books, one about teaching dancing and the other poetry. I had them made
16
.
into one parcel in order to send them by post tomorrow, one to Johnny Pahlawan and the other
17
.
to Nassoury Bahoshy. I returned at sunset to our residence.
18
June 29
I got up in the morning and the weather was somewhat hot. At 9:00
19
.
Monsieur Tiers came again to get us. We went to someone who prints visiting
20
.
cards and asked for some hundreds. Then we continued to a large department store
21
.
called the Magasin Général. Here they sell everything that a person
22
.
desires of clothes, accessories and other things that boggle the mind. We bought

Page 118


01
.
many things and returned to our lodgings before noon. We then began to arrange the items
02
.
to send to Baghdad. At 2:30 Hanna Tabouni came to see me
03
Marseille
and we left to tour the markets. We came to a place where they show
04
.
moving pictures. They call this the Cinamétographe (Ct[`e]nematograph) and admission is 50
05
.
centimes. It is truly a wondrous and amazing thing that a person can see
06
.
people walking and talking as if completely natural. Half an hour later
07
.
we left and I returned to our lodging. I found Nassoury at our place and after he left we took
08
.
mother and went out a second time and likewise bought few things. We returned
09
.
at sunset. Nassoury invited us to break our fast at his place at noon tomorrow and
10
.
very much insisted that we come. So we accepted.
11
June 30
The morning is unpleasant. The weather is extremely stuffy with clouds and it is very hot.
12
.
After we awoke we put our things in the trunks
13
.
and arranged everything because we will have to travel the day after tomorrow.
14
.
We stayed here a long time. At 11:00 Nassoury brought
15
Marseille
letters from Baghdad. I mean from my paternal uncle Henry and Johnny and from my maternal uncle Antone.
16
.
We were very pleased for news from our homeland. They wrote that they are all in good health.
17
Marseille
The heat where they are is very strong. The Syriac Archbishop Syriac Archbishop: [in Mosul] had traveled to Mosul
18
.
where he would oversee his mission. Likewise Father Yousif Jarji had gone too and other
19
.
things beside. After we read the letters we went with Nassoury to the
20
.
train station to go to Montredon, where Nassoury stays. The weather
21
.
was extremely unsettling with a strong, dry wind, and the sand blinded us until
22
.
we arrived. His wife greeted us with a hearty welcome and after breakfast

Page 119


01
.
his mother-in-law arrived too. At 3:00 we said our goodbyes and returned to town.
02
.
When we returned to our lodgings we found that our work was not yet finished. So we will leave the day after
03
.
tomorrow. After dinner we went to the Cannebière district and returned after an hour.

June


20
حزيران ١
صباح اعتيادي مع هواء قليل قمت ساعه -,٦
21
.
و نمت طول الليل كثير مليح . المركب كل هده الليلة كان يمشي
22
.
حتى الصباح ساعه ٧,٥ بانت لنا بلد يافا فقدم من بعد نصف

Page 073


01
.
ساعه و الابلام اجت من الساحل الى المركب لأخد بعض عبريه و كدلك
02
.
سفن اتت لتأخد الحمل و سمعنا بأن يلزم نقف هنا طول النهار
03
.
بلد يافا هي على البحر و بنايتها زريفة مثل بيوت بيروت لكن
04
.
مرسيها كثير ملعون و البحر هنا هايج و مركبنا كان يتقلب مثل
05
.
السمكه و نحن ابد ما قدرنا نمسك نفسنا من الاستفراغ و كدلك
06
.
جميع العبريه رأسنا جميعاً كان دائخ و معدتنا كثير منزعجة
07
يافا Jaffa
و ساحل يافا مشهور في هياجاتهُ هنا اتوا من البلد بعض
08
.
بياعين اغراض شغل القدس و يافا مثل محابس و مسابح
09
.
و كثير اشياء نواعم فاشترينا منهم بنوع التذكره كم غرض . ساعه
10
.
١١ دقوا جرص الفطور و رحنا اكلنا في الصالون على ميز منفرد
11
.
المركب لم يزل يلعب و مزعجنا كثير و انا ما بقى لي خلق و ضعفت
12
.
و جيت في بالي سفر البر كيف هو كثير احسن من البحر . المركب
13
.
كثير كبير ولكن خفيف و ما به الاّ قليل حمل يشيل ٣٦٠٠ تن
14
.
و هو رفيع و طويل جداً به مقدار ١٠٠ قماره كثير حلو مرتبين
15
.
بهم ضواء الكهرباء و ناقوس ايضاً كهرباء و غير اشياء .
16
.
هنا تصادقت مع واحد من اهل امريكا و اصله من بيروت
17
.
لكن صار له مده من هاجر بيروت و اسمه George Saba
18
.
و مسكنه في نيويورك رجل لطيف كثير و كان ساكن
19
.
معنا في الهوتيل لكن ما احد تجاسر يحكي مع الاخر غير الآن
20
.
كثير اضجرنا من تقلب المركب اخيراً ساعه ٦ صاح و مشي من يافا
21
.
هدا مطرح الملعون لكن قابلنا هواء عالي و بدى يلعب
22
.
كثير ازود . ساعه ٧ دق جرص العشاء حالاً رحت اكلت
23
.
بسرعه و معدتي مخربطه و اسرعت لانام .

Page 074


01
حزيران ٢
صباح لطيف مع هواء غربي قمت ساعه ٥ و لكن ابد ما
02
.
نمت هده الليله لأن كيفي كان مخربط من البحر . سمعت بأن المركب
03
.
تقل مشيه فحالاً اعرفت باننا واصلين پورت سعيد فاطلعت رأسي
04
.
من الشباك و شفت البندر بان لنا من بعد نصف ساعه و المركب به مثل
05
.
الدود فاسرعت بتبديل هدومي و طلعت فوق السطح فدخل المركب بالمينه و كانت
06
.
ساعه٥,٢٠ فهنا شفت جملة مراكب كبار واحد بعد الآخر فبعدما بطل حركته
07
.
المركب استكرينا بلم من ابلام Cook Cook: A reference to Thomas Cook and Sons, an international travel company that started as a rail travel company in Britain, it expanded to give tours in Egypt by 1869. By the time Alexander had arrived in Cairo, the company offered worldwide tours and transit options within and beyond the Middle East. In addition to providing rail options and a fleet of luxury steamers within Egypt. The company also offered travel options to many other locations around the world. ووضعنا الاغراض و طلعنا على الساحل
08
.
الى الكمرك فهنا فتشونا ادا يوجد معنا ادنى شي غير قابل دخوله فما لقوا شيء.
09
.
فاعتمدنا بأن نزور صديقنا المسيو جوزيف خوري Joseph Khoury: Formerly engaged to Josephine, the daughter of Alexander Richard Svoboda's older half sister. The two never married because Josephine passed away before the marriage. الدي كان قبل ١٠ سنين
10
.
في بغداد ترجمان قنصل الافرنساوي و الدي خطب ابنة عمتي مدولة جوزيفين Josephine: The daughter of Medula Sayegh Tessy. Medula was Alexander Richard Svoboda's half sister from this mother's (Eliza Marine) first marriage. التي
11
.
توفت قبل زواجها فسألنا عن بيته فارونا اياه فرسلنا الكارت متخوفين
12
.
لئلا يكون هدا غير خوري فاروا لنا بالطلوع فأجت والدته و ادا هي بعينها
13
.
و ثم هو جاء و قابلنا بكل فرح و قبلنا و تعجبنا حقيقة كيف الدهر اجابنا بعد هكدا
14
.
مده لنراه . فكان فكرنا بأن نروح من هنا رأساً الى القاهرة اعني في الاترين الذي
15
.
يمشي ساعه ٩ لكن كثير حب مسيو خوري بأن نبقى النهار هنا فرضينا بذلك .
16
.
طلعت لادور في پورت سعيد فشفتها بلد حلوه كثير و نضيفه و اسواقها و عماراتها
17
پورت سعيد Port Sa'id
مثل اوربا تكميل اعني جميع البيوت ٥/٤ قوط و يوجد بيت كبير من حديد ٩ قوط
18
.
و هدا قبال بيت مسيو خوري و الصدق اقول ان ترتيبها احسن من
19
.
بيروت لكن صغيره و للغاية غاليه الادمي ما يقدر يعيش بها اقل من ١٥ فرنك
20
.
يومياً جميع المخازن و الدكاكين على افرنكه و تقريباً جميع اهل البلد يلبسون
21
.
على افرنكه و البوليس المصري يدورون بين كل عقد لابسين كثير نضيف و مفتشين
22
.
على الذي يعمل قوي . صحتي الى الآن كثير مخبوطه و رأسي دائخ
23
.
و ما عندي قابله لشيء. بعد الظهر فطرنا عند مسيو خوري

Page 075


01
.
و طلبنا منه ليرينا مكان في بعض الهوتيلات لنقضي فيه ليلتنا فاخدنا و اتينا على
02
.
هوتيل و اجرنا اوضتين فطلبوا مننا ١٥ فرنك الى العشاء و النوم . هنا البايسكل
03
.
كثير و يوجد كثره من الدين يركبوه بالدروب من نساء و رجال .
04
.
بعد العشاء زارنا المسيو خوري و قعد مقدار ساعتين .
05
حزيران ٣
اليوم صبحت قليل حارة مع هواء غربي و الوقت
06
.
هنا كثير تغير عن الشام و بيروت و صار مثل ايام بغداد في هدا الشهر
07
.
اعني يابس و حار . شربنا الجاي ساعه -,٧ و لمينا حوايجنا و دهبنا
08
.
لعند مسيو خوري لكي نودعهم و نروح الى سكة الحديد لنركب
09
.
بها الى القاهره فقعدنا لحد ساعه -,٨ و بعده سلمنا على والدته و هو
10
.
و اسماعيليه Suez + Ismaїlia رحب يرافقنا للمحطة فجينا و اخدنا لنا مكان و شفنا هدا الترين
11
.
كثير الطف من الدي يروح من الشام الى بيروت وبالنصيب لقينا
12
.
لنا Wagon فارخه لأجلنا فقط فكثير فرحنا عليه فساعه ٩
13
.
تكميل صاح بالصافوره و الجرص دق للمشي فتوادعنا مع مسيو يوسف
14
.
خوري و الترين ترك پورت سعيد و اخد جرف الكنال السويس
15
.
Canal de Suez و طول الوقت يمشي على حافتَيْهِ ساعه ٩,٣٥
16
.
وقف و لحد هنا يوجد ١٤ كيلومتر من پورت سعيد ساعه ٩,٤٥ فاتنا مركب
17
.
بالكنال اسمه عبد القادر Abdul Qader: The name of a ship. و معه حجاج و الدي أتي من كل بد من البصرة
18
.
و رائح الى الحج ساعه ١٠ و قفنا و مشينا بعد 3 دقائق ١٠,٥٠ كنطره
19
.
محطه مشينا ١١ الفردان ١١,٤٥ مشينا ١١,٤٧ وصلنا اسماعيليه
20
Suez السويس و اسماعيليه
ساعه ١٢,١٥ و هنا نزلنا من الاترين و التزمنا ننتظر الدي جاي من
21
.
السويس ليأخدنا الى القاهره فساعه ١,١٠ اتى و بدلنا مطرحنا به
22
.
و اخدنا ايضاً Wagon لكن غير جنس من الاولى و اعتق
23
.
اسماعيليه هي بلد صغيره و معمره ساعه ١,٢٣ مشينا منها
24
.
راجعين الى السويس حتى الاترين يأخد درب القاهره . فهدا

Page 076


01
.
كان يمشي سريع و كثير اخف من الدي جينا به الى اسماعيليه . ساعه
02
.
١,٥٥ مَحَسَّنَه مشينا ١,٥٨ . قصاصين ٢,٨ مشينا ٢,١٠ تل الكبير
03
.
٢,٢٥ مشينا ٢,٣٠ ابو حمد ٢,٤٥ مشينا ٢,٤٨ ابو احضر ٣ مشينا ٣,١
04
.
هنا يوجد مقبرة كبيره Cemetary: In Abu Ahdhar, a cemetary commemorating the soldiers who died int he 1882 Battle of Tel el-Kebir in Egypt. مهندسة فيها قبور عسكر الانكليز و المصر
05
.
الدين قتلوا في معاركة الانكليز مع المصر Battle of Tel el-Kebir: An important battle in 1882 between the British military and the Egyptian army led by Ahmed Urabi near Tel el-Kebir, about 110 km northeast of Cairo. The British succeeded in maintaining control of the Suez Canal and other regional interests. و اخوانها . زقازيق
06
الى القاهره
٣.١٠ هده بلد كبيره جداً و مثل بغداد بالكبر هنا كثير عبريه اتوا
07
.
و حتى دخلو ٧ في الـ Wagon الذي مأخديه و كانوا كثير ما عندهم ادب
08
.
و يتمازحون على ظنهم نحن افرنج . الاراضي هنا كثير مخصبه و بها كثير
09
.
من النخل و الزرع مثل الشعير الحنطه الثمن القطن و غير اشيا و هنا
10
.
اول مره شفت من بغداد الى هدا المكان حيوان الجاموس . لكن
11
.
جميع الاراضي من پورت سعيد الى هنا كثير مرمله و بها عج و الاترين
12
.
املأ تراب . سكة الحديد كثير مليح كانت تمشي هنا و خفيف
13
.
و كنت اعد كل ١٥ عامود التلغراف نفوته في دقيقه واحده مشينا من
14
.
زقازيق ساعه ٣,٢٥ و معنا كثير عبريه منها . زنكالون ٣,٣٥ مشينا ٣,٣٦
15
.
جوديده ٣,٤٨ مشينا ٣,٥٠ . مينة القمح ٣,٥٥ مشينا ٤ . ميت
16
.
يزيد ٤,٥ مشينا ٤,٧ . ساعه ٤,١٥ و قف الترين و قالوا لازم
17
.
نتحول الى غير واحد لأن الدرب هنا عمال يدوزوه و ما تقدر تفوت السكة
18
.
راساً فاختصبنا ان ننقل اغراضنا و نركض الى سكة الثانية و نحن مجرجرين
19
.
يميناً و شمالاً بالركاب اخيراً طلعنا بكل عداب الى الترين الأخر و قعدنا في
20
.
محل يمسك ٨ اوادم و اختصبنا ان ننتظر تبديل الحمل من الأحد
21
.
الى الأخر اخيراً ساعه ٥,١٠ مشي من هدا المحل وصلنا شبلنا
22
.
٥,٢٠ مشينا ٥,٢٨ بنحا ٥,٤٥ مشينا ٦ الترين للغاية رائح خفيف
23
.
و اول مره مشي بنا هكدا سريع و كان يعمل كل ٢١ عمود في دقيقة
24
.
فبعد ممشا ١٥ دقيقة بان لنا القاهره فنزل حركته و بدي

Page 077


01
.
يمشي اتقل .
02
.

03
.


04
.
ساعه ٦,٣٥ وصلنا محطة القاهره و شفنا البنيانات الشاهقة
05
.
و العمارات اللطيفة التي ضيعت بيروت و الشام
06
.
اصحاب الهوتيلات مثل الدود فاستخيرنا واحد اي هوتيل ميتروبول فهنا التموا علينا
07
القاهره
Cairo Hotel Metropole و اجرنا عربه و سقنا ما بين الاسواق
08
.
اللطيفه و الدروب الجميله التي تفتح القلب فزلنا ماشيين و الناس
09
.
تنفش بالدروب و العربات مثل السمك و البوليس بالدروب
10
.
لابسين نضيف و كذلك عسكر الانكليزي فمالنا الوقت
11
.
الآن لننظر كل شي فجينا على باب الهوتيل و تعاملنا معه على ليره
12
.
انكليزيه يومياً لثلاثتنا و دخلنا واجرنا اوضتين . هنا كل شي
13
.
غالي نار و في پورت سعيد كثير ازود حتى الحمال ما يشيل غرض
14
.
الى بعد ٣ دقائق فقط مندون فرنك و كدا الجميع . في الهوتيل لقينا
15
.
مدام فره مع ابنها فيكتور اي ريجينه بنت الخواجه حبيب شيحا Khwaja Habib Shiha: The brother of Francis Shiha; he fathered a girl named Regina.
16
.
و طلعنا عندها و فرحت كثير لما شافتنا و ما كانت تصدق هل صحيح
17
.
نحن اتينا و تعجبت كثير لما شافتني و سألتنا على بغداد و على الشقيقة
18
.
تاكوهي و غير اشياء . تعشينا ساعه ٨ و طلعنا الى اوضتنا لننام
19
حزيران ٤
لاننا كنا حقيقة كثير هلكانين من التعب و من السفر .
20
.
قمت صباحاً ساعه -,٦ و طول الليل الوقت كان
21
.
حار و شبابيك الاوضة مفتوحه هده الليله نمت كثير مليح
22
.
لاني كنت تعبان كثير . بعد ما شربنا الجاي رحت مع
23
.
الوالد لندور في الاسواق و لكن اي اسواق مثل صرايات

Page 078


01
.
و كل المخازن متنوره بالاعلانات الدهبية و الزجاج على الباب الكبير
02
.
و العقود مثل عروسة المهندسة فاول جينا نروح لعند مسرس
03
.
Thos. Cook + Son لنأخد منه تداكر من الآن الى برنديزي
04
.
و ناپولي و ايضاً تداكر الى سكة الحديد من هنا الى اسكندرية
05
.
فجينا على الاوفيس و كانه باب ولاية و تلك العمارات التي تدهش
06
.
و البيت كانه قلعه فدخلنا و طلبنا منه دلك فحالاً ارانا خارتت
07
.
المركب الدي سياسفر من الاسكندريه في ١١ من هدا الشهر الى برنديزي
08
.
و اسمه Sutleg و يشيل تقريب ٥٠٠٠ تن و كبير الى اخر
09
.
درجه فاعطانا ٣ تداكر الى ثاني درجه الى Brindisi في ١٦ ليره
10
.
انكليزيه و ربع و من Brindisi الى Napoli بالسكة الحديد ٦ ليرات
11
.
تقريبا و من هنا الى اسكندريه ليره و نصف هده الجميع اعني الى ثلاثتنا
12
.
و قال ادا نحب نرجع بعد ساعه نشوف التداكر حاضره فخرجنا من
13
.
هنا و رحنا الى البنك اي Banque Impl. Ottomane لنقبض دراهم
14
.
اي ستون ليره و هدا البنك ايضاً كبير و فاخر بعماراته و به
15
.
جملة كتاب فاعطونا الدراهم و خرجنا راجعين الى محل Cook
16
.
فشفنا التداكر جميعها حاضره فاخدنانها و رحنا الى قنصلاتو
17
.
النمسى حتى نسأل ادا يوجد كتاب باسمنا من بغداد فاعطينا
18
.
الكارتت و دوروا و ما لقوا شيء ابداً فلزم نرجع الى الهوتيل لأن
19
.
صارت ساعه -,١١ فبعد ما رجعنا لقيت عند ريجينه مسيو
20
.
اوكست تونيتي الدي قد نسيته جداً و لما طلع من بغداد كان
21
.
عمري مقدار ٩ سنين و هو ايضاً ما عرفني ففرحنا كثير
22
.
لما شفنا يوجد واحد الدي يقدر يساعدنا هنا فتواعدنا معه بأن
23
.
يجي بعد الظهر اعني ساعه ٤ لنروح معه ندور في البلد و من الحكي
24
.
قال لنا بأن ايفي ابنة عمي المرحوم اسكندر Effie: Effie Svoboda was the daughter of Alexander Sandor Svoboda and wife of Ernest Boucherot. Born in Baghdad in 1852, she left the city in 1860, eventually settling in Cairo. She gave birth to many children, including a girl named Evelyn and sons Paul Louis and Alphonse. موجودة هنا خارج

Page 079


01
.
البلد و زوجه بالبلد عنده مخزن Optician . بعد الفطور حضرت
02
.
كم كتاب الى بغداد و البصرة و الساعه ٤ اتى مسيو اوكست و اخدنا الى
03
.
مسيو Boucherot زوج ايفي و هدا ما كان عنده خبر بشي
04
.
ابداً و والدي دخل عليه غفلتاً و هدا المسكين هكدا تعجب حتى
05
.
صاح بصوت عالي و تعانق معه و صار مثل ليس مصدق كثير
06
اقاهره الازبكيه Cairo el Izbakieh
فرح بان عليه بمشاهدتنا و هو رجل لطيف كثير و عنده مخزن يبيع
07
.
به مثل درابين آلات هندسة و غير اشياء فبعد نصف ساعه خرجنا
08
.
من عنده و قال بأن غداً ايفي تجي الى البلد و سيجيبها عندنا في الهوتيل
09
.
و عزمنا يوم الأحد ان نروح نقضي النهار معه بخارج البلد . فمن هنا دخلنا
10
.
في بستان التي هي بنصف الولاية و تسمى الازبكيه al-Azbeqiyya: To be completed. لكن
11
.
يا لها من بستان لطيفه حلوه بها من جميع اجناس اشجار التي في
12
.
الدنيا و التي اشتروها بدراهم باهضة حتى يجيبوها الى هنا و تحت
13
.
العروق يوجد كراسي و تخوت بكثره و الناس بها تروح و تجي
14
.
و في الوسط يوجد حوض كبير جداً اعني طوله ٢٠٠ متر و به الوز
15
.
لكن غير اجناس وز و ما شفنا قبلاً منه له رقبة طويله و منقار
16
.
عليه وصله سوداء و كبار جداً و بجانب الحوض يوجد دائره عاليه
17
.
و المسيقه تدق بها اغاني افرنجيه و لطيفه و الحاصل هدا المكان
18
.
هو احسن من جميع بساتين الدين شفناهم و قبال هده الجنينة
19
.
في العقد يوجد تمثال كبير ابراهيم باشا راكب على حصانه و الجميع
20
.
من برنج فبقينا في البستان الى ساعه -,٧ و بعده رجعنا و الدروب
21
.
تنفش بها الناس الافرنج مع مداماتهم مثل الدود و الف قاط ازود
22
.
من الصباح لأن الآن الجميع خلصوا شغلهم و الدروب مصطبحه
23
.
بنور الكهرباي و الكاز الحقيقي و البترول و الكواري تروح
24
.
و تجي و البايسكلات كدلك و هنا شفنا اول مرة الـ

Page 080


01
.
tramway الدي يمشي بالالكتريك و يسموه Automobile
02
.
هدا شيء حقيقة يعجب يمشي من داته لا خيل تجره و لا
03
.
نار به . رجعنا الى الهوتيل و توادعنا مع اوكست و تواعدنا بأن
04
.
غداً يجي علينا لنروح نشوف غير اماكن .
05
حزيران ٥
قمت صباح و الوقت كان حار جداً و هده الليله كانت
06
.
كثير وخمه بعد ما غسلت و بدلت اجي علينا مسيو اوكست
07
.
و اعتمدنا نروح نزور جامع قيل موصوف بعماراته و يسموه جامع
08
.
المقطم فطلعنا من الهوتيل و ركبنا في الـ Tramway Electric
09
.
و رحنا الى خارج البلد لكي نطلع نشوف هدا الجامع الدي هو
10
.
معمر على جبل و عالي فوصلنا هناك و اشجار البرهامه بالدروب
11
.
كثيره و طلعنا رويداً رويداً و درنا حول هدا الجامع الكبير جداً
12
جامع المقطم
و مبني كشغل الجبابره و من هنا نشوف جميع البلد تحتنا
13
.
و كدلك الاهرام تبان لنا من هنا فبعده ردنا ندخل بداخل
14
.
الجامع اي بالحضره فلزم علينا ان نضع بوابيج من عندهم
15
.
و ندخل بها فدخلنا الى الحضره و تعجبنا على كبرها و على ما بها من
16
.
شغل الرفيع المرمري فعرضها ٨٠ خطوه و طولها باضعاف
17
.
دلك و لها من فوق ٤ قبات الواحده اعلى من الاخره و الجميع
18
.
دائرهم طرمات و بالوسط معلق طريه التي معلقه من
19
.
كبرها بزنجيل المركب الدي يجرون به الانكر و يقدرون يشعلون
20
.
بهده الطرية ١٠٠٠ قنديل فدائرها يمكن ١٠ مترات فخرجنا
21
.
من هنا و اعطينا كم غرش بخشيش و ثم جينا على مكان عميق
22
.
جداً و يسموه جب يوسف The Well of Joseph: According to Burckhardt (1812), the Well of Joseph (Ar. Jubb Yousif) was on the road between Damascus and Akka. Alexander must have visited a second well, known by the same name, a short distance from Cairo. اي ان يوسف الحسن كان مرمي في هدا
23
.
البير فهنا ايضاً اعطينا كم غرش و فتحوا لنا الباب لننزول اليه

Page 081


01
.
لأنه معمول في وسط جبل و هدا الجبل محفور الى اسفله لكن ظلم
02
.
فجابوا لنا شمعات و نزلت انا مع اوكست الى نصفه و شفنا
03
.
في الحائط قبر و مثل بكرات لجر الماء و كنا بعمق ٢٠٠ متر و الماء يريد
04
.
له ١٠٠ آخر حتى واحد يقيسه فطلعنا و نحن هلكانين من التعب
05
القاهرة Cairo
و الحر الدي قتلنا طول هدا النهار و الشمس محرقة كثير و مثل ايام الصام
06
.
في بغداد فخرجنا من هدا المكان و نحن متعجبين على شغله
07
.
و اتينا تكراراً بالترامواي الى الهوتيل و كانت ساعه ١٢ و كنا
08
.
ننتظر ايفي ابنت المرحوم العم اسكندر لأن زوجها قال لنا بانها
09
.
تجي عندنا الظهر فلما قعدنا على الميز لنفطر اد قالوا لنا بأن قد
10
.
جاء خطار يشوفونا فعرفنا انها ايفي فدخلت حالاً و بقت
11
.
تعانقنا بكل محبة و متعجبه كيف لقتنا و غايةً فرحت على مشاهدتها
12
.
ايانا فقعدنها معنا على الميز و امرنا لها بفطور و بعده طلعنا معها الى
13
.
اوضتنا و بقينا نحكي كثير على بغداد و قالت صار لها ٣٧ سنه من
14
.
سافرت من بغداد و لكن كان يجي على بالها الى الآن كل شي و حتى
15
.
غناني العتق و لكن المسكينه كثير كبيرة و شعر رأسها بدي
16
.
يبيض و تعجبت كثير على الوالدة و روينها جمله صور بغداد و خصوصاً
17
.
صورت الفاميليه و كثير اخدها العجب لما شافت هكدا تغيرات
18
.
صار بالفاميليه . فساعه ٤ اخدناها و طلعنا الى السوق لمشتري كم
19
.
غرض و دخلنا دكان زوجها و شفنا عنده ابنها الصغير و اسمه
20
.
پول و عمره ١٠ سنوات ابنتها الكبيره قد زوجتها و عندها
21
.
ولد فبقينا نمشي بعد خروجنا من المخزن الى ان وصلنا محطة سكة
22
.
الحديد فتوادعنا معها و حققت علينا بأن بكره نروح لعندهم نقضي
23
.
النهار في مكان اسمه مطريه al-Matariyah: A small historical site located on the outskirts of Cairo of seeming importance to Christians. The site is home to a prominent obelisk, an ancient tree named after the Virgin Mary, and a Fresco of the Holy Family located in a local chapel(date unknown), and a small body of water colloquially called the “Jesus Well.” في خارج البلد ببعد نصف ساعه
24
.
مشي و السكة الحديد ١٠ دقائق . فرجعنا الى الهوتيل الغروب .

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01
حزيران ٦
صباح وخم و حار قمت ساعه -,٦ و بدلت هدومي
02
.
و بما اليوم هو يوم الأحد اعتمدنا البارح مع مسيو اوكست
03
.
بأن يجي علينا ساعه ٨ لنروح معه الى كنيسة لنسمع فيها القداس
04
.
و من هناك نروح الى المحطة لنروح لعند ايفي . فجاء اوكست بساعه
05
.
المعينه و اخدناه و رحنا الى كنيسة صغيره و شفنا بأن جميع
06
القاهرة Cairo
القداديس قد انتهت و يوجد واحد آخر ساعه ١٠ فهدا كثير
07
.
بعتاق و الوقت عمال يصير حار فاعتمدنا الاحسن ان نروح الى
08
.
سكة الحديد و نأخد لنا تذاكر الى المطريه فكرينا عربية و رحنا الى
09
.
المحطة و كانت ساعه -٩ فأخدنا تداكر رواح و رجوع في ١٢ غرش
10
.
صاغ لاربعتنا و ساعه -,٩ دخلنا بالاترين و مشي بنا فسرنا و كل
11
.
١٠ دقائق نقف في محطة الى ان وصلنا المطريه ساعه ١٠ فخرجنا
12
.
و رحنا الى مسكن ايفي و الوقت عمال يزداد بالحروره و الارض
13
.
كانت تسلق لانها رمل يابس فدخلنا عندها و فرحوا
14
.
لملاقاتنا فاوكست راح لعند بعض من اصدقائه دخلنا في اوضة
15
.
و سكرنا جميع الابواب و الشبابيك لأن لهيب الحر للغاية
16
.
قوي و الظهر صار ١١٢ درجة فرنهايت و اقدر اقول
17
.
ان في بغداد ما يوجد هكدا حر فبعد الظهر بساعه قعدنا على
18
.
الفطور و هدا الوقت اتى ابن ايفي الفونس الدي متوضف
19
.
في سكة الحديد و هو صبي ابو ٢١ سنه و الفقير كان قد مرض
20
.
من الحر اخيراً ساعه -٤ توادعنا معهم و خرجنا حتى نلحق الاترين
21
.
الدي يسافر في -,٤ فالشمس هنا كانت محرقة جداً و الوقت
22
.
صار يابس و صام و عمال يكوي فكانوا يقولون بأن افريقيه
23
.
حره و لكن ما كنا نصدق فساعه -,٤ اجى الاترين و دخلنا

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01
.
به و ما كان ادنى ادمي به من زود الحر فهنا ايضاً اجى اوكست فوصلنا
02
.
القاهره ساعه ٥ و اعتمدنا نروح نزور يوسف سريوس الدي اجى اليوم من
03
.
الاسكندريه لأن لما كنا في پور سعيد كتبنا له كتاب نعرفه عن
04
.
وصولنا الى هنا فقد ارسلوا له الكتاب الى هناك و البارحه غروب
05
.
اتانا تيل منه يخبرنا بأنه غداً يكون في مصر القاهره . فرحنا مع اوكست
06
.
الى محله و دخلنا و صعدنا الى ثالث قاط فهناك شفناه و فرح بنا
07
.
و كدلك اتت امرأته الدي هي كثير جاهله و عمرها يمكن
08
.
٢٢ سنه و له ابنين صغار بعمر سنتين و ادون فخرجنا من
09
.
عنده بعد ساعه و عزمنا على العشى عنده غداً و قبلنا ذلك . فقصدنا
10
.
ان نروح نتفرج على احسن مكان القاهره و هي الكيزة اعني
11
.
دائره كبيره في داك جانب نهر النيل فكرينا عربه في ٣ فرنكات
12
كيزه Guizeh
و سقنا مع اوكست بين شوارع عدله و مزروعه على الصوبين
13
.
بالبرهامه و الناس في العربات و على الخيل و على البايسكل مثل الدود
14
.
تنفش هنا فجينا على جسر ن هر النيل الدي هو من حديد و عالي
15
.
مقدار ٥٠ متر من الشط و في دخوله يوجد رأسين الدخله
16
.
سبعين مجسمين من پولاد كبار جداً و لهم منظر حقيقة
17
.
يخوف فعبرنا الجسر على النيل و جينا على الكيزه مكان غاية
18
.
لطيف و هو مثل مدربان و على الصفين شجرات البرهامه
19
.
تعمل في للنصف و العربات مثل الدود على صفين صف للرواح
20
.
و الاخر للرجوع و الپوليس بينهم ينتظرون ادنى شي غير
21
.
لائق و هنا يوجد هوتيل افخر الموجود في القاهره و اسمه
22
.
Gazereh Palace Hotel Gazereh Palace Hotel: This was a luxury hotel located in central Zamalek. Jointly managed by the French Gezirah Land Company and the Egyptian Hotels Company, the building was converted to a hotel during the late 19th century (only a few years before Alexander’s visit); it had previously been a palace of Khedive Ismail. The hotel was famed for its luxury, and it was a popular location with European tourists. و حقيقة يستحق المنظر
23
.
و الدين شافوه قالوا ما يوجد مثله في اورپا لانه هكدا كبير
24
.
مثل اكبر صرايات و به ازود من ٣٠٠ قبه و كرخانه

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01
.
للكهربائي و تياتروات كبار و قباله في الارض مزروع من جميع
02
.
انواع الورود و بين كل ١٠ ادرع يوجد تماثيل و ضواء الكهرباء
03
.
متروس بالداخل و الخارج و الحاصل زريف كثير . فرجعنا من هدا
04
.
المكان الدي ايضاً يعملوه في الشتاء ميدان لشرط الخيل ساعه
05
.
-,٧ .
06
حزيران ٧
قمت ساعه -,٦ صباح و الوقت كان وخم كدلك
07
.
و يبان هده اشد ايام الحر هنا فبعد ما شربنا الجاي اجاء علينا مسيو
08
.
اوكست Yousif Saryos: A resident of Alexandria who had two children and two sisters, Mariam and Touza, who had recently lost her husband. و كرينا عربه و رحنا نشوف خوات يوسف سريوس اي
09
.
مريم و توزه فمكانهم من هنا بعيد بمقدار نصف ساعه في مرورنا دخلنا
10
.
عند خياطه التي عمال تخيط كوت للوالدة و هنا شفت شيء الدي يستحق
11
.
دكره و عجيب و نادر . هده الخياطه عندها ابن عمره مقدار ٣٥ سنه
12
.
و انا شفته بعيني و هو من سن العشرين اعمي و لكنه معلم بدق
13
.
البيانو فهدا المسكين الله نور قلبه و بطول عميانهُ يعلم البيانو
14
.
لجملة ناس و ازود من دلك يعمل نوط اي نغمات و يكتبها في
15
.
دفاتر و يعلم بها الطالبين و هو اعمي الى آخر درجه فهدا شيء
16
.
الدي حيرني و الدي ما يصير مثله بعد . وصلنا عند بيت بنات
17
.
سريوس و طلعنا عندهم و استقبلونا و لابسين السواد على اختهم و زوج
18
.
توزه اسكندر نصور فهنا اتى الخوري بطرس عابد الدي كان
19
.
قبل ٦ سنين مدير مدرسة الكلدان في بغداد و المسكين كثير
20
.
ضعفان و هو الآن هنا يباشر كنيسة التي عمال تعملها
21
.
امرأة انطوني التي هي هنا ساكنه في حوش واحد مع يوسف
22
.
سريوس لكن قاط الاسفل فبعد ما طلعنا من عند مريم و توزه
23
.
اجى معنا الخوري بطرس ليفرجنا على الكنيسة التي

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01
.
تخص امرأة انطون عبد المسيح فدخلنا بها و شفناها لطيفه و ليس
02
.
كثير كبيره و بعد ليس متممه و عمال يصبغونها لكن حلوه من داخلها
03
.
و تمسك مقدار ٥٠٠ نفس فقط و قد صرفت عليها الى الآن ٧٠٠٠ ليره
04
.
فرجعنا الى الهوتيل ساعه ١٢ و فطرنا و بعده ساعه ٥ اتى علينا اوكست
05
.
و اخدنا و رحنا لعند هيلانه امرأةانطوني لنعمل لها زياره فاستقبلتنا
06
.
في الديوان و هي طرشه و عجوز بمقدار ٦٥ سنه فكما نحن معتمدين
07
.
ان نتعشى عند يوسف فتوادعنا معها و طلعنا الى قاط الأعلى فهناك
08
.
قعدنا بالديوان و بعده اتوا يوسف و امرأته و يوسف كان يونسنا
09
.
على قدر اطاقته فاعتمدنا بعد العشى نروح العربه نشم الهوا في
10
.
دائر القاهره امرأةيوسف جاهله و عمرها ٢٠ سنه و تدق البيانو كثير لطيف
11
.
و دقت لنا كم فصل و خصوصاً دقت بعض الحان التي كنت اسمعها في
12
.
بغداد فتدكرت هنا الوطن و عجبني اكون به . ساعه -,٩ قعدنا على
13
.
العشى و ميزه كان كثير مليح و ساعه ١١ خلصنا و اخدنا عربيتين
14
.
و رحنا لطرف الجسر و يسموه هنا كبري Kopri district: Possibly a reference to the area around Gezira Bridge. Constructed in 1872, the bridge linked the East Nile and the island of Zamalek. The bridge has since been demolished, and today the Qasr-e-Nile bridge serves the purpose that the Gezira Bridge once served. لكن يا للمنظر اللطيف
15
.
في الطرق على الجنبين الاشجار و ضواء الكهربائي و الكاز على
16
.
الصفين و خصوصاً براس الجسر شيء كثير لطيف و الظواء عامل
17
.
زي زريف و عدل فساعه ١٢ رجعنا الى الهوتيل و توادعنا . مع
18
.
يوسف و امرأته و اعتمدنا معهم بأن بكره نروح الى صراي الانتيكات اي
19
.
الـ Musée Palace of Antiquities: Cairo’s Museum of Antiquities, which held most relics from Egypt’s ancient past. It was moved to Giza in 1891 following a flood that damaged the previous location. Soon after Alexander’s visit, the goods in the museum were moved once more. . اليوم رسلت جملة مكاتيب لبغداد اعني لجاني
20
.
كسبرخان الى نصوري و جميل الى روفائيل و كدلك ارسلت الى جاني قوانين
21
.
مدرسة الكلية في بيروت التي اخدتهم من الرئيس .
22
حزيران ٨
قمت صباحاً و بدلت و الوقت كذلك
23
.
كثير وخم فبعد ما شربنا الجاي اي ساعه ٨ اتوا لعندنا الخواجات
24
.
اوكست و يوسف ليأخدونا و نروح الى المعرض الانتيكات المصريه .

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01
.
فساعه -,٨ كرينا عربيه و سقنا نحو الجسر و عبرنا و اخدنا درب يسموه
02
.
الكيزه و جميعه مضلل من عروق البرهام على الصفين و عامل في
03
.
بالوسط و الهواء هنا كان يهب كثير لطيف و النسيم كان يفتح القلب
04
.
فوصلنا بعد نصف ساعه الى صراي الانتيكات و يسموه Musée
05
صراي الانتيكات في كيزة
و هو عبارة عن بستان كبيره جداً جداً و في
06
.
وصطها يوجد صراي كبير كان يقعد به قبلا الخديوي السابق
07
.
اسماعيل باشا و الآن عامليه مثل معرض و به جميع لقيات المصريه التي
08
.
لقيت في هده الاراضي و بما اليوم هو الثلاثا فجميع الداخلين يكونون
09
.
مجاناً فجينا على الباب و بان لنا الصراي شيء فاخر جداً على رفع
10
.
بنيانه و زخرفت شغله فدخلنا و طلبوا مننا العصي و الشمسيات
11
.
لأن يخافوا لئلا ينكسر شي بالداخل فدخلنا اول اوضه و شفنا
12
.
المحنطين اي الـ Momies d'Egypte و هم يابسين و على
13
.
حالتهم التي ماتوا بها اعني فقط يابسين و مسودين و جميع
14
.
مضاغهم و ملابسهم موجودة هنا و كدلك الكفن و هولا قدماء لا
15
Le Musée
اقل من ٣٠٠٠ سنه اخيراً دخلنا اوضة بعد اوضة في هدا
16
.
الصراي الكبير اللطيف المنقوش جميعه و لامع و كثير احسن
17
.
من اعلى بيوت الشام التي اخترعنا بهم فشفنا هنا جميع ما
18
.
لقوه من هدا الشعب القديم اعني ملابسهم و اطباقهم و محابسهم
19
.
و دهوباتهم و ثوابيتهم و آثاثهم و آلاتهم و (...) و كتبهم و جواهرهم
20
.
و آلات محاربتهم و خرزهم و كتاباتهم على الخام ام على وراق الاشجار و غير
21
.
وغير دلك اشغال التي تحير العقل و تشوش دهن الانسان
22
.
و هدا الصراي يحوي على تقريب ٩٠ اوضه الجميع متروسه
23
.
من هده الاشغال التي تستحق الشوف و تفتح الابصار
24
.
على اشياء القديمه و هنا جميع هده الاغراض مغطات بصناديق

Page 087


01
.
من جام و بلور لتنمع اللمس و كدلك شفنا مراكبهم و ابلامهم و المجاديف
02
.
الى أخره و حقيقة بقينا الى ساعه ١١ ندور و ما خلصنا و تعبنا الى اخر
03
.
درجه من الوقوف فنزلنا بعد ما شفنا كل شيء و ركبنا بالعربية و رجعنا
04
.
الى مطرحنا مفتكرين و مبهوتين على هده الفرجه اللطيفه . بعد الظهر
05
.
اتوا عندنا الخواجا يوسف و امرأته و الغروب رحنا شمينا الهواء في
06
.
جنينة الازبكيه.
07
حزيران ٩
اليوم قمت صباحاً اعني ساعه ٥ لأننا معتمدين نروح نشوف
08
.
الاهرام العجيبة . صباح لطيف و ليس كثير حار اجاء علينا مسيو
09
.
اوكست و ساعه ٦,١٠ دقائق ركبنا في عربة و سقنا نحو الجسر
10
الاهرام Pyramides
لنعبر و نروح الى طريق الدي يوصلنا الى الاهرام فعبرنا و سرنا بين
11
.
اشجار البرهامه على الصفين و بين مدربانات طوال عدل
12
.
و الشمس تعطي في و نسيم الصباح كثير لطيف اخيراً وصلنا ساعه
13
.
٧,٤٥ الى الاهرام التي هي حقيقة عجوبه من عجوبات الدنيا
14
.
و يوجد بجانب الاهرام هوتيل اسمه Mena House Mena House Hotel: A hotel near Cairo and the Giza Pyramids. The site was converted into a hotel after its 1885 acquisition by an English family. The hotel began to stay open year-round around 1890; this marked a shift from other hotels, which typically closed during the summer. The hotel was incredibly luxurious, as it included tennis courts, high-end chefs, and the first hotel swimming pool in Cairo. لكن
15
.
للغاية لطيف و مزخرف فقبل وصولنا الى الاهرام اجتمعوا علينا
16
.
جملة اوادم ليكونوا لنا كدليل و كانوا يركضون على العربه و يتعاركوا
17
.
مع بعضهم و نحن نسحتهم و ما نريدهم و ما كان يطلع درب منهم
18
.
و حقيقة كثير عمال يضوجوا فقلنا لهم ما نريد احد ابداً و ما جازوا
19
.
و راحوا جابوا اباعرهم و دوابهم هده المره فخليناهم مثل الكلاب و رحنا
20
.
بجانب اول اهرام التي من بعد كانت تبان لنا شي صغير و هده
21
.
الاهرام هي مبنيه من حجار كبار مرمر مصفطه واحده على الاخره
22
.
شيء يستحق الفرجه و علو هده الاهرام كان ٤٧٠ فوت
23
.
و زعموا بأن ملوك الاقدمين لما كانوا يقعدوا على التخت
24
.
كانوا يعملون لهم قبور غميق بغمق ٤٠٠ فوت و فوقه يعملون

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01
.
هده الجبال الكبار اي الاهرام لأن كانوا يعتقدوا بأن ارواحهم
02
.
بعد موتهم ترجع بيوم الدينونه و تأخد اجسادهم و تصير حيه غير
03
.
مميته الى الابد و لازم الانسان قبال مماته يوصي بأن بعد موته
04
.
يرفعون جسده في مكان اضيق ما يكون حتى لا يقدر يشم الهوا
05
.
و الريح و لأجل ذلك ايضاً كانوا يحنطوهم فهدا صدق يمكن .
06
.
فبعد ما تفرجنا على اهرام الاول دهبنا نحو الـ Sphinx
07
.
و يسموه هنا ابو الهول و تعجبنا على كبره و ضخامة شغله
08
.
فتفرجنا على قدر اطاقتنا لأن الحر كان قوي جداً و الارض
09
.
ليس سهلة المشي لانها مرمله و حارة و صاعدة و نازله .
10
.
فنزلنا و اخدنا العربيه و كانت ساعه -,٩ و رجعنا من اين
11
.
ما اتينا فوصلنا الهوتيل ساعه ١٠,٥٠ و اعطينا حق العربه 35 غرش
12
.
صاغ . بعد الفطور اتت عندنا ايفي و ابنها الفونص
13
.
و بقوا لحد ساعه ٦ و دهبوا من الهوتيل عاطين لنا قول بانهم يرجعون
14
.
بكره العصر يتوادعون معنا . الغروب اخدنا اوكست و رحنا الى
15
.
الازبكيه سمعنا الموسيقه لأجل ساعه و رجعنا الى مطرحنا .
16
حزيران ١٠
قمت ساعه ٧ و الصباح كان مثل البارحه و بعد
17
.
ما شربنا الجاي رحنا جميعاً الى الحمام التي تبعد من هنا بمقدار ١٠
18
.
دقائق لنستحم و اعطينا لكل نفر ٦ غروش صاغ و حقيقة
19
.
كثير عجبتني هده الحمام لانها على افرنكه و النساء و الرجال يقدرون
20
.
يروحون بها و جميعها مقسمه باوضات و احواض افرنجيه
21
.
فبعد ساعه رجعنا . و هدا هو اخر يوم نحن هنا في القاهر و بكره
22
.
سنأخد الشمين دفير الى الاسكندريه و اليوم ما عندنا
23
.
شيء نعمل . فطرنا و طلبنا من صاحب الهوتيل ان يقدم
24
.
لنا الحساب . و اني حقيقة للغاية حبيت القاهره

Page 089


01
.
و منكدر على طلوعي منها لكن لا بد ما اشوف ما اشوف احسن منها . العصر اتى
02
.
علينا مسيو اوكست و اخدناه و رحنا ندور و نتوادع مع مصر
03
.
و الغروب لما رجعنا شفنا عندنا ابنت ايفي و اسمها Eveline
04
.
مع زوجها و ابنها و زوجها اسمه Georges Kahil و بالحقيقيه
05
.
اثنينهم جهال البنت عمرها يمكن ١٨ سنه و الزوج يمكن
06
.
٢٠ فقط. و كثير فرحنا لما شفناهم و هم ايضاً و بعد نصف ساعه راحوا
07
.
و توادعوا معنا و قالوا لنا بأن ايفي وصتهم ليسلموا علينا من طرف
08
.
ما كان عندها وقت لتدخل البلد .
09
.

10
.

11
.


12
حزيران ١١
قمت صباحاً ساعه ٦ لأن لازم نحضر اغراضنا للمشي مع
13
.
الترين الدي يمشي ساعه -,٩ فبعد ما شربنا الجاي لمينا جميع اسبابنا
14
.
و ساعه ٨ اتانا اوكست و ايضاً ريجينه مدام فره نزلت من
15
.
فوق عندنا فبعد نصف ساعه كرينا عربياتين و توادعنا مع
16
.
ريجينه و اعطينا حق الهوتيل الدي صار تقريب ٨ ليرات
17
.
انكليزيه و ركبنا بالعربات و سقنا الى محطة سكة
18
.
الحديد فحالاً عند وصولنا اخدنا لنا تداكر و اخدنا مكان في
19
.
ثاني درجة و هنا الصناديق يأخدون عليها نول و كدلك لما
20
.
جينا من پورت سعيد اخدوا على الصندوقين ١٠ فرنكات
21
.
فهنا اتانا يوسف سريوس و مدامته و اولاده و خوري بطرس
22
.
لتوادعوا معنا فساعه -,٩ صاح الترين و توادعنا مع الجميع

Page 090


01
.
و خصوصاً اوكست الدي كثير احتصر على فرقتنا و نحن كدلك لأن
02
.
مده قعودنا في مصر كان كل الوقت معنا و ما قصر بشي علينا .
03
.
فقد تركنا مصر و الترين طلع من الـ Station متقبل
04
.
نحو الاسكندريه وحقيقة اني كثير احتصرت على فراقنا القاهره
05
اسكندرية مصر Alexandria
لانها بلد التي تستحق الدكر و الشوف و فاقت جميع اماكن
06
.
التي شفناها قبل . ساعه -,٩ مشينا ساعه ١٠,١٠ بنها مشينا ١٠,١٥
07
.
١٠,٥٢ تنتا ١١,٥ مشينا . ١١,١٥ كافر زايات ١١,١٦ مشينا .
08
.
١١,٥٥ دمنهور ١٢,٠ مشينا . ١٢.٤٠ سيدي كابر ١٢,٤٥ مشينا
09
.
ساعه واحده بعد الظهر وصلنا اسكندريه . بما يوجد عندي هنا
10
.
صديق الدي اتكاتب معه من مدة ٣ سنين على مادة الاپوال
11
.
كتبت له كتاب من القاهره قبل كم يوم و قلت له باني وصلت
12
.
هنا و عن قريب سأشوفه فجاوبني بانه كثير فرحان و ينتظرني
13
.
في المحطة يوم وصولي و هنا لما وصل الاترين المحطة لقيت
14
.
هدا صاحبي و اسمه S.E. Couddésu و كثير فرح لما شافني فحالاً
15
.
كرينا عربة و اخدنا صناديقنا و افتكرنا قبل كل شي نروح نأخد
16
.
القمره في مركب الـ Sutleg Sutleg [Thomas and Cook ship] من مراكب T. + C.
17
.
فسقنا بين شوارع الاسكندريه و انا متعجب من هدا البنيان
18
.
الدي كثير اعلا من القاهره فجينا الى المركب و اخدنا القمره و معنا
19
.
Couddésu و بعد ما وضعنا صناديقنا رجعنا تكراراً بالعربة
20
.
لنتفرج على البلد احسن فدرنا في اسواقها و مكاناتها و شفتها
21
.
مثل القاهره تقريباً لكن ما بها اشجار بالدروب و بساتين
22
.
كبار ادروبها مطبقه من المرمر فرحنا الى الپوسطة لنسأل اذا
23
.
يوجد عندنا مكاتيب من بغداد فما شفنا شيء و تعجبنا من الاهل
24
.
كيف الى الآن ما كتبوا لنا شيء و اخر كتاب اخدناه في

Page 091


01
.
بيروت و لنا زمان ما عندنا خبر عنهم ابداً . فساعه ٣ رجعنا الى المركب
02
.
لأن ساعه ٤ يمشي فاعطيت الى صديقي الپوال كم پول عجمي
03
.
و غير مقدار ٥٠ و توادع معي و طلع و اعطيته كتاب انطوان
04
.
جوليتي الدي كتبه الى عمته هنا مثل توصيه و طلبت منه ان يقول
05
.
مسيو Bavastro et Sakakini بأن كثير محصور كون ما شفتهم
06
.
وجهياً. ساعه ٤ تمام شلع المركب من الـPort الدي
07
.
به مقدار ١٠٠ مركب و من جملتهم مركب تركستان الدي جاي
08
.
من البصره و ايضاً سيمشي الآن الى مارسيليا و حقيقة ان
09
.
مينةالاسكندريه هي شي فاخر و لطيف و كثير كبير .
10
.
فطلعنا من المينة و صرنا بالبحر و مركبنا للغاية كبير يشيل تقريب
11
.
٥٠٠٠ تن و له الحمد شاحن و ما عمال يلعب مثل الدي جينا
12
.
به من بيروت الى پورت سعيد و ممشانا كثير لطيف
13
.
و ما نحس بانزعاج قطعياً . هنا تصادقنا مع واحد افرنساوي
14
.
اسمه مسيو شارترين و مدامته الدي هو متوضف في سكة الحديد
15
.
بالقاهره و ادمي طيب معنا مقدار ٣٠ عبري فقط بالاول و ثاني
16
.
درجة. هنا شيء واحد ليس مليح و هو الأكل كثير فقير و ما يعطون
17
- هدا كان الغروب فقط لكن بالنهار اكثر يعطون اكل مقدار٤ مرات لكن الغروب فقط اكل بسيط
غير جنسين اكل بسيط. بعد العشاء الدي كان ساعه -,٦ غروب
18
.
طلعت على سطح المركب و القمر كان في عشره منها و كان يعطي
19
.
نور لطيف على هدا البحر الكبير العرمرم . الوقت هنا بارد جداً
20
.
و فرق عظيم بين القاهره و هنا و الغيم هنا مثل ايام الشتى .
21
حزيران ١٢
اليوم صبح البحر مخيف و مزعج لكن ليس
22
.
كثير و له علامات يكثرو انا كثير خائف منه لأنه
23
.
يأديني . المركب كبير جداً و ما بها غير حمل قليل
24
.
بعد الظهر قربنا على سواحل اليونان و الهواء

Page 092


01
.
هنا كثر و المركب بدي يلعب ازود و انا بدت نفسي ايضأ تلعب
02
.
و صحتي تغيرت العصر فتنا عن بعد جزائر الـIonian Islands
03
.
و المركب لم يزل يكثر بلعبه و انا كدلك حتى الغروب لما جيت اقعد
04
.
على ميز لعبت نفسي و نزلت في القمره من دون اْخدان
05
.
لقمه و هنا كيفي كثير تغير و نفسي بدت تلعب ازود و انطرحت
06
.
على الفراش و بديت استفرغ من دون بطاله .
07
حزيران ١٣
هده الليله قضيتها من اشق الليالي في عمري
08
.
كله و لحد الآن ما قاسيت هكدا عداب الذي لم ازل اقاسيه
09
.
لحد الآن و انا متروك مثل السمكه على الفراش من لعبان
10
.
المركب الملعون و استفرغت بالليل مقدار ١٥ مرة و كدلك الى
11
.
الآن استفرغ و البحر هايج جداً و انا احس رأسي
12
.
يقلع من مكانه وصفوا لي ان اطلع فوق السطح لكن
13
.
كان اتعس اخر الى الغروب انا اجر عداب الشهداء
14
.
و هده اول مرة حسيت بهدا شي و الله يساعد من يجري برأسه
15
.
هكدا شيء . الى الليل انا على حاله واحده و للغاية ضعفت و ما
16
.
بقي بي قوه امشي و خفت لئلا هده الليله تكون مثل السابقه
17
.
فارسلنا على الحكيم و اعطاني دواء النوم لكن لله الحمد هنا البحر
18
.
قل هيجانه .
19
حزيران ١٤
هده الليلة نمت مليح لكن سكران من الضعف
20
.
و من قلت الأكل و من اول البارحه الى الآن ما اكلت شي
21
.
قطعياً فبما اليوم نصل برنديزي لزم احضر اغراضي لتركان
22
.
المركب و البحر الملعون الدي صرت اكرهه مثل الشيطان
23
.
و اتمنى مشي البر بالف قاط احسن . فبعد ان شربت

Page 093


01
.
قليل من الجاي بدلت هدومي لميت اغراضي و انا هلكان
02
.
من الضعف الكلي و ما عندي قوة ادب قدمي فساعه ٧ ايضاً
03
.
المركب الملتعن بدي يلعب و البحر كدلك هاج فلا حول و لا
04
.
قوة الا بالله العلي العظيم . و انا مع كل ضعفي بدت نفسي
05
برنديزي Brindisi
كدلك تتخربط و لولا ان برنديزي تبعد من هنا ساعتين
06
.
حقاً اني كنت اموت لا محاله فقعدت على الميز و المركب
07
.
يلعب و يروح و يجي اخيراً هده كانت منطرف قد قربنا الى
08
.
سواحل ايتاليا اي برنديزي فساعه -,٨ دخل المركب الى المينة
09
.
و سكن نوعاً ما فقدمنا على الجرف ساعه ٩,١٠ اي على الـ Quai
10
.
و وضعوا الدوسه و خرجنا من المركب و انا فرحان على مفارقتي
11
.
البحر لكن محصور على ضعف مزاجي الكلي و جميع صحت التي
12
.
حصلتها في الطريق قد ضاعت هنا في يوم واحد و ليله . برنديزي
13
.
هي تشبه قليل پورت سعيد لكن جميع اوادمها ايتاليان
14
.
و بلد ليس كبير لكن على ترتيب اوربا . فكان املنا ان
15
.
نمشي من هنا حالاً بعد وصولنا لكن لما سألنا على اترين
16
.
الدي يروح الى ناپولي قالوا بأنه مشي قبل ٥ دقائق
17
.
و يوجد واحد اخر الى Foggia اي نصف درب ناپولي
18
.
و الدي يمشي ساعه ١,١٠ بعد الظهر فاختصبنا ان ننتظر لذلك
19
.
الوقت . فساعه ١ بان الترين فاخدنا اسبابنا و رحنا
20
.
استأجرنا مكان في ثاني درجة . هنا في ايتاليا يوجد رسم
21
.
على صناديق المسافرين اي بالوزن و اخدوا على صندوقينا ١٧ فرنك
22
.
اجره الى ناپولي رأساً . ساعه ١,١٥ سافرنا من برنديزي
23
.
في سكة الحديد رأحون نبات في Foggia بلد صغيرة

Page 094


01
.
لأن الدرب رأساً الى ناپولي من هنا بعيد جداً و ازود من ١٥ ساعه فوصلنا بـ
02
.
1,33 S. Vito D'Otranto left 1,35 = 2,5 Carovigno left 2,8 =
03
.
Ostouni 2,27 left 2,40 = Cisternion 2,55 left 3 = Fazano 3,15
04
.
left 3,25 = Monopoli 3,42 left 3,50 = Polignanio 4,7 left 4,10 =
05
.
Mola 4,30 left 4,33 = Noicattaro 4,45 left 4,57 = Bori 5,15
06
.
left 5,30 = these three latter stations are very large + their
07
.
towns are also big. New station 5,50 left 6,5 = Molfetta 6,11
08
.
left 6,15 = Biceglia 6,30 left 6,33 = Trani 6,42 left 7,28 =
09
.
Barletta 7,20 left 7,28 = Ofantino 7,44 left 7,46 = from
10
.
Brindisi to here we were going alongside the sea but
11
.
now tooked the desert. Cirgnola 8,15 left 8,20 = Ortonova
12
.
8,45 left 8,47 = arrived @ 9,10 Fogia

13
.
فهنا وصلنا بعد الغروب و كان قد اظلم الليل لكن النور الكهرباي
14
.
و الكاز كان بالدروب فتركنا الترين و اخدنا عربه و رحنا مع فرد آدمي
15
.
الى محل ننام به فوصلنا و هدا المكان يبان ليس جيد فاخدنا اوضة
16
.
و امرنا بأكل و انا لم ازل ضعيف و ما عندي خلق فبعد ما تعشينا
17
.
نمنا و هدا المكان يسموه Albergo di Villa di Napoli .
18
حزيران ١٥
قمنا صباح اي ساعه ٥ لأن الترين يمشي
19
.
من هنا الى ناپولي ساعه ٦,١٥ فاسرعنا بالتحضير و اعطينا حق
20
Foggia
المكان ٧ فرنكات و بعد ما شربنا قليل من الحليب
21
.
رحنا الى المحطة و ركبنا بالأترين الدي يروح رأساً الى ناپولي
22
.
و من دون جملة وقوف و اسمه الـ Expresse مشينا
23
.
من Foggia ساعه 6,15 . Bovino 6,52 left 7,2 =

Page 095


01
.
Savignano 7,37 left 7,40 = Pianerottola 7,50 L 7,57 =
02
.
passed a long tunnel for 6 minutes, Ariano 8,00 L 8,3 =
03
.
Montegalvo 8,20 left 8,23 = Apice-Argengelo 8,40 L 8,42
04
.
Ponte-Valentino 8,49 L 8,50 = Benevento 8,55 L 9,5 =
05
.
Casalduni Ponte 9,23 l 9,25 = Solopaga 9,35 l 9,37 =
06
.
Terese Cereto 9,42 l 9,45 = Frasso-Dugenta 9,55 l 9,58 =
07
.
here we passed under a bridge of 3 stages.
08
ناپولي Napoli
Madoloni 10,13 l 10,15 = Caserta 10,25 l 10,35 =
09
.
Aversa 10,52 l 10,55 = Fratemajoregroma 11,0 l 11,3 =
10
.
Afragola 11,8 l 11,10 = Arrived
Napoli 11,15
11
.
فقدمنا رويداً رويداً على ناپولي الشهيره و من Foggia الى
12
.
هنا كنا نمشي بين الجبال اللطيفه و المخضره و لها منظر للغاية
13
.
جميل فبعد ما وصلنا المحطة كرينا عربه و اخدنا اغراضنا و رحنا
14
.
كرينا لنا اوضة في هوتيل اسمه Pension Suisse
15
.
لكنه حقير و وسخ و تعاملنا معه على ١٨ فرنك يومياً . فبما يوجد
16
.
عندي صديق اتكاتب معه بشأن الابوال كتبت له من
17
.
برنديزي كتاب حتى يجي للمحطة يستقبلني لكن بوصولي
18
.
ما شفته و اظن ما وصله كتابي فبعد ما خلصنا الفطور
19
.
طلعنا خارج حتى نتفرج على البلد التي هي زريفه مثل ما
20
.
لازم و بها عمارات و منتزهات التي ما شفناها بعد
21
.
و كدلك الصرايات و التياتروات هي على البحر و موقعها
22
.
حسن و بها خلق كثير اي ٦٠٠,٠٠٠ نفس و خصوصاً هده
23
.
الايام السلطانHumberto و ولده مع امرأة

Page 096


01
.
ولده هم هنا و جميع البلد و الاسواق و الصرايات مزوقه بالورود
02
.
وغير اشياء و حقيقة ان ناپولي هي جنة فبعد ما درنا بالبلد
03
.
عجبني اروح ادور على صديقي لاننا موجودين وحدنا هنا و ما نعرف
04
ناپولي Napoli
احد فعالجنا مع كل تعب و لقينا مكانه في درب طويل و اسمه
05
.
Via Chiaja نمره ٢٠ فطلعت لعند اوضة و دقيت الجرس
06
.
فخرجت امرأة و قالت لي بانه ليس بالبيت لكن في اوفيسه و يرجع
07
.
ساعه ٨ بعد الغروب فكتبت له ورقة و قلت له بأني وصلت
08
.
ناپولي و مشتاق اشوفه و اعطيته ادريسي و حنيت عليه
09
.
بالمجي عندي في اقرب وقت فللحال الامرأة جابت لي ورقه
10
.
قد كتبها مسيو D'Ovidio صديقي يقول بها بانه ما
11
.
يعرف متى اشرف ناپولي و قد وصله مكتوبي من القاهره فقط
12
.
و طلب مني في تسكرته ان اوضح له ادريسي فحقيقة فرحت
13
.
بذلك و عدرته على عدم مجيه للمحطه لان ما وصله مكتوبي
14
.
من برنديزي . فرجعنا من الشارع الى هوتيلنا لننتظر
15
.
مجي مسيو D'Ovidio فما لبثنا ساعه و ادا واحد يدق
16
.
باب الاوضة ففتحت و ادا D'Ovidio بعينه فتسالمت
17
.
معه و هو كدلك و قدمته للوالدين و كثير فرح على مجينا و استعدر
18
.
كونه اعتاق و قال الان امرائته ارسلت له تسكرتي و مكتوبي
19
.
معاً الدي ارسلته من برنديزي و الدي وصل معنا في الاترين
20
.
فبعد الحكي الطويل قدم نفسه لنا مثل صديق تام و قال
21
.
بانه واقف لنا بالخدمه في كل ما نريد هنا و انه سيروح يتعشى
22
.
و بعده يرجع يأخدنا لنروح ندور بالليل في مكانات ناپولي اللطيفه
23
.
فتعشينا و بعده اتى مسيو ديـﭭيديو و طلعنا نجول في مكانات

Page 097


01
.
الفاخره و الناس تعمال تنفش مثل الدود و العربات تروح و تجي
02
ناپولي Napoli
و مرينا على اي شيء نتفرج فرحنا اولاً نحو الـ Teatro S. Carlo
03
.
و ثم الى الـ Galleria و ثم الى Palais Royal و ثم على جانب البحر
04
.
و قبال جبل Vesuve الدي عمال يزوع و نقدر نشوف
05
.
النار مغطى على الجبل و بالحقيقة ما اعرف ماذا اقول على ناپولي
06
.
و على ونساتها فبعد ساعتين رجعنا الى الهوتيل.
07
حزيران ١٦
صباح لطيف و هنا الوقت طيب و حر ابد ما
08
.
يوجد . البارحة اعتمدنا مع مسيو دوﭭيديو ان يجي يأخدنا ساعه ١٠
09
.
و نروح ندور دائر ناپولي في كاروسه . ساعه ٩ ارسل لي كتاب مع
10
.
واحد من كتابه يقول بأنه منكدر كونه للغاية مشغول و ما يمكنه يجي
11
.
في الحاضر معنا لكن ارسل كاتبه يرافقنا و ارسل لنا عربيته فركبنا
12
.
بالعربه و رحنا الى حوالي اماكن الشهيره و الكبار و ثم بدينا نطلع رويداً
13
.
رويداً على اجبال و هنا بانت لنا البلد بكليتها و يا له من منظر جميل
14
.
على البحر و جبل فيوزوف و غير اشياء و تلك القصوره المعلقه في
15
Napoli
وسط الجبال المخضره فدرنا دائر البلد و نزلنا و جينا على اوفيس
16
.
صديقي و كانت ساعه -,١ لأن قد تواعد معي القيه هناك ليأخدنا
17
.
و نروح الى الـ Port و نركب في جالبوت و نطلع الى البحر
18
.
فحين وصولنا الى محله هو ما كان حاضر لكن بعد ١٠ دقائق اتى
19
.
و استعدر كونه ما قدر يأتي معنا الصباح فرحنا معه الى ساحل البحر
20
.
و نزلنا في بلم و عبرنا الى البحر و يا للمنظر اللطيف الدي كان يبان
21
.
من البحر على البلد فهنا البحر كان منزعج و الجالبوت بدى
22
.
يلعب فتدكرت وقت الدي كنت في المركب و معدتي بدت

Page 098


01
.
تتغير فطلبت منه ان يرجعنا الى الساحل لأن هواء البحر يضرني
02
.
فرجعنا بعد ساعه و هنا في المينة يوجد Port اثنين
03
ناپولي Napoli
> الواحد للحربيه و الآخر للتجارة و ايضاً يوجد Phare اي
04
.
منارة البحر و كان رأسي على مينة الحربية مركبين حربي
05
.
ايتليان الواحد اسمه Sardaigne وبه ٧ مداخن و كبير الى اخر
06
.
درجه فالغروب رجعنا الى مطرحنا معتمدين ان نروح بعد
07
.
العشاء الى الـ Theatre اي الـ Opera و اسمها San Carlo
08
.
فاشترينا التساكر في فرنكين الواحدة و قبل ما ندخل الهوتيل صديقي
09
.
اخدنا الى مكان منتزه على البحر على جانب جنينة كبيرة و جانب
10
.
الآخر البحر و هنا الطف من جميع اماكن ناپولي و العربات
11
.
و الناس كانوا يمرون مثل رمل البحر و يقولوا بأن في جميع الدنيا
12
.
ما يوجد منظر لطيف مثل هدا المكان فرجعنا اخيراً و كدلك
13
.
مسيو دوفيديو الى بيته و صار القرار ننتظره في باب التياترو
14
.
اي ساعه ٩ . فرجعنا ساعه -,٨ الى التياترو و انتظرناه هناك الى
15
.
ان اتى فدخلنا و قعدنا و انا تعجبت على هدا المدخل و المشاهده
16
.
الجميله فبدوا باللعب و كانوا مقدار ١٠٠٠ نفس داخل يسمعون و كانوا
17
.
يعملون الروايه على ترتيب الـ Orchestra و كانت الموسيقه
18
.
تدق و تعاون اصواتهم فحقيقة المنظر كان خشوعي
19
.
جداً و بعده عملوا بالو الدي وقف اعين جميع الحاضرين
20
.
وصفقوا لهم بنوع الاكرام فما قدرت تخلص الروايه قبل ساعه
21
.
بعد نصف الليل فخرجنا من التياترو و توادعت مع صديقي و قال
22
.
بانه غداً يجي يودعني قبل ممشاي لأن الاترين
23
.
يتحرك ساعه ٨,١٥ صباحاً .

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01
حزيران ١٧
قمنا صباحاً و الوقت حسن مع هواء غربي فشربنا
02
.
الجاي سريعاً و بعده لمينا اسبابنا و اعطينا حق الهوتيل
03
.
و كرينا عربه و رحنا الى المحطه و اخدنا لنا مكان و اني
04
.
منكدر كوني ما شفت بعد مسيو دوﭭيديو و يمكن قد نسي
05
.
يجي فمشي بنا الاترين من ناپولي ساعه ٨,٢٠ متقبلين
06
.
نحو روميه و انا متأسف على مفارقتي هدا البلد الجميله للغاية .
07
.
Cancello 8,44 l 8,45 = Caserta 8,59 l 9,1 =
08
.
S. Maria 9,8 l 9,9 = Capua 9,15 l 9,17 =
09
.
Saparamise 9,34 l 9,35 = Teano 9,49 l 9,51
10
.
Canianolla 10,3 l 10,5 = Cassino 10,40 l 10,43 =
11
.
Roccasecca 11,4 l 11,5 = Ceprano 11,16 l 11,21 =
12
.
Ceccano 11,42 l 11,43 = Frosinone 11,53 l 11,57 =
13
.
Segni 12,29 l 12,34 = Ciocupino 1,15 l 1,16 . =

14
.

15
.


16
.
فمن هنا بانت لنا عن بعد روميه الشهيره و بان قبل كل شي
17
.
قبة بيعة مار بطرس الثمينة فوصلنا المحطة ساعه ٩,٣٠ و بعد ان
18
.
كرينا عربة و وضعنا اسبابنا سقنا بين الاسواق و الدروب لنلقي
19
.
لنا هوتيل و اليوم هو عيد كبير اي عيد خميس الجسد و جميع الدكاكين
20
.
معزله و ما يوجد غير القليل و الناس ايضاً كثير اقلال بالدروب
21
.
اخيراً بعد ما شفنا هوتيلين لقينا واحد صغير مليح لكن فقط للسكنه

Page 100


01
.
في ٧ فرنكات يومياً و هو اسمه Hotel d'Orient في Piazza
02
.
Pole نمره ٨ ويشرف على فضوه كبيره و بجانب فضوة الكبيره
03
رومية Roma
اي Piazza Colona فبعد ان اخدنا اوضتين و وضعنا اغراضنا
04
.
خرجنا لنأكل في Restaurant فبعد ان اكلنا رجعنا الى
05
.
مكاننا و العصر رحنا لعند رئيس باتريه الكارمليت لنسأله ادا
06
.
يوجد عنده كتاب بأسمنا من بغداد فقال بان ما عنده شيء
07
.
و ادا يجي كتاب يرسله لنا و هو رجل كثير لطيف و وضع نفسه
08
.
قدامنا لكل حاجه نريدها هنا فطلبنا منه فقط اذا يصير يرسل معنا
09
.
دليل لما نزور الـﭭاتيكان فقال بانه غداً يرسل اب من
10
.
ابرشيته ليصحبنا لهناك فشكرنا فضله و خرجنا . فبما يوجد
11
.
عندي مكتوب توصيه من ابناوساني بطرس من بغداد الى اخيه
12
.
هنا جبرائيل في بروبكندا Propaganda: Branch of the Catholic Church entrusted with expanding Catholicism and of managing Church affairs in non-Catholic countries. This branch of the Church operated in non-Catholic Europe, the Middle East, the Americas, and elsewhere. A few years after Alexander’s travels, it expanded its operations under the direction of Pope Pious X. حبيت ان اشوفه فرحنا الى
13
.
الـ Propaganda و شفنا بالباب كم قس كلداني و سرياني
14
.
و بالتصادف شفت عند خروج التلاميد للتنزه ميخائيلبن
15
.
نازو من اهل بغداد فسلمت عليه و فرحت كثير لما شفت ابن
16
.
وطنا و اما عن جبرائيل اوساني فقالوا لي بانه مشغول الآن
17
.
و غداً بعد الظهر يكون بطال فاعطيت الكتاب الى ميخائيل
18
.
ليسلمه اياه و رجعنا عند الغروب للهوتيل و بعده رحنا
19
.
تعشينا في الـ Restaurant الدي هو في Piazza Colona
20
.
و هنا سمعنا الموسيقه تدق مع العسكر الاتليان و كان جم غفير
21
.
من الناس يروحون و يجون في هده الفضوة التي بكبر
22
.
الفين دراع طول و عرض فساعه -,٩ رجعنا الى موضعنا .

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01
حزيران ١*٩١
قمت صباح و الوقت مغيم و ممطر قليل بعد ان شربنا الجاي
02
.
و بدلنا هدومنا رحت مع الوالد عند بادريه الدومينيكان لأن
03
.
عندنا مكاتيب توصيه لهم من عند القاصد الخير الدي في الموصل
04
.
اخيراً لقينا المكان و هو في Piazza Tratone فدخلنا
05
رومية Roma
و اعطينا الكارت الى بادريه بواب فرجع و قال بأن بادري
06
.
الجنرال مشغول و ما يقبل احد فحقيقة كثير انهضمنا من
07
.
دلك و عرفنا يوجد غلط فقلنا له هودا مكتوب من القاصد
08
.
له اعطيه اليه و هودا اخر الى البادري الـ Procureur
09
.
ايضاً اعطيه و نحن نسلم عليك فقال الأحسن انتظروا لارجع
10
.
لكم الجواب فرجع بعد ١٠ دقائق و قال تفضلوا و اخدنا و رحنا
11
.
الى الدير الكبير الى البادري الـ Procureur و اسمه
12
.
Père Cromier فاستقبلنا بكل استرحاب و قد اتاه
13
.
خبر عن مجينا فبعد الحكي الطويل قال يمكن اقدر اروح
14
.
معكم الى الرئيس لأن جينا نطلب من الرئيس مكتوب
15
.
توصيه الى ﭭينا فرحنا عند رئيس الجنرال و اسمه Père Père Bodin
16
.
Bodin فطلع و استقبلنا و بأن كثير ادمي لطيف الاخلاق
17
.
و اعتدر كونه كان عنده شغل فحكينا معه كثير على التركيه و بعده
18
.
طلبنا منه كتاب توصيه الى ﭭينا فحالاً كتب لنا واحد و اعطانا
19
.
اياه و كدلك كتاب اخر الى رئيس الـﭭاتيكان يطلب
20
.
منه ان يزورنا جميع اماكن الـ Vatican و اعتمدنا بأن
21
.
بكره نروح صباحاً لأن الفتوح يصير من ساعه ٨ الى ١ بعد
22
.
الظهر فاستكثرنا بخيره و رجعنا الى البيت و بعد كم دقيقة اتانا

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01
S. Sebastian No. 10
بادري الكارمليتاني الدي ارسله رئيس البادريه الدي البارحه كنا
02
.
عنده فاعتمدنا معه بأن بكره يأتي ساعه ٨ و يأخدنا الى الـﭭاتيكان
03
.
و هو يدورنا على كل شيء . لكن بعد الفطور جينا نروح
04
.
نشوف كنيسة مار بطرس المشهوره في الدنيا جميعها
05
.
و التي ما يلتقي مثلها في جميع اقطار المسكونه فكرينا عربه
06
.
و وصلنا الى ساحتها ساعه ١ بعد الظهر و اخترعنا لما شفنا
07
.
حوش الدي خارج الكنيسة اكبر من فضوة Piazza Colona
08
.
في ٥ اضعاف و مدور بالعواميد ٤ اصفوف و مثل هكدا و على
09
.
اليمين و اليسار يوجد شدروانات اثنين الدين ما يوجد افخر منهم
10
.
فقربنا على الباب الكنيسة و دخلنا في وسط الكنيسة و انبهتنا على
11
.
ما شفنا من شغل المرمر الرفيع و كبر الكنيسة التي طولها فقط ٥٠٠
12
.
خطوه و عرضها ٢٠٠ و لها قبة التي تعلى ازود من ٥٠٠ فوت و بالحقيقة
13
.
صدقوا ما قالوا بأن ما يوجد اختها في جميع الدنيا و دلك حقيق
14
.
ليس قابل ان افسر بالكتابه شيء الدي بها و هده احسن من جميع
15
.
فرجات التي شفناها من بغداد الى هنا يوجد بداخل الكنيسة
16
.
مقدار ٢٥ طرونز و قبور جميع الببوات و الاصنام المجسمة شي
17
.
يحير الانسان و لها ٦ بوب كبار جداً و جميع بنايتها من مرمر السماقي
18
.
العال اللامع و الحاصل كل ما اقول هو قليل على هده الكنيسة التي اشتهرت
19
.
في جميع اقطار الارض فبعد ان تفرجنا مقدار ساعتين و نصف رجعنا الى
20
.
محلنا مبهوتين على صناعة بني آدم . كتبت كم كتاب الى بغداد اعني
21
.
لنصوري و جميل و جاني بهلوان و قس فيلبس و مستر دلموروزاريو
22
.
و الى منصور خادمنا البرت اصفر و كتبت ايضاً كارت الى صديقي حنا
23
.
تبوني الى مارسيليا اخبره بعد كم يوم اكون عنده و ارسلت الجميع بالبوسطة .

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01
حزيران ٢٠
صباح مغيم هده الليلة كان كيفي مخربط و قليل من الحمى
02
Getti X Corso Diluix Porta Lalona
و يمكن دلك من التعب الكلي . ساعه ٩ اجي البادري الدي
03
.
مزمع ان يرافقنا لزيارة الفاتيكان Cardinal Jerome فاخدنا اولا و رحنا نشوف
04
الفاتيكان
كاردينال جيروم Carmelite Priests: The Order of the Brothers of Our Lady of Mount Carmel or Carmelites. A Roman Catholic religious order founded in the 12th century on Mount Carmel, Israel. الدي قبل ٥ سنين كان رئيس باترية الكرمل
05
.
و بيته ليس يبعد عن هوتيلنا فوصلنا هناك و دخل البادري ليأخد
06
.
لنا رخصه لنشوفه فدخلنا البيت و هو كبير و طلعنا فوق الى اوضة
07
.
كاتب اسراره و قالوا لنا بأن يوجد عنده شغل الآن و بعد ١٠ دقائق
08
.
يستقبلنا فبعد ان خلص دخلنا عنده فاستقبلنا ببشاشة و جلسنا
09
.
بالديوان و هو رجل كثير طيب الاخلاق فبعد الحكي قمنا من
10
.
عنده و كاتب اسراره واحد اسمه ..... سألنا عن باتري انستاس ماريني Father Anastas Marini
11
.
و سلم عليه . فخرجنا من بيت الكردينال و اخدنا الـ Omnibus الى
12
.
ساحة الـﭭاتيكان فوصلنا هناك ساعه -٩ و انا كيفي لم يزل يزداد
13
.
بالنزول فوصلنا على باب الفاتيكان الدي به مقدار من العسكر الببوي
14
.
الدين يحرسون الـﭙاﭙا من دون معاش و طلعنا مقدار ١٠٠ باية عراض
15
Vatican
و هنا اخدنا تذاكر لزيرات جميع الفاتيكان . فاما الفاتيكان
16
.
على ما يقولوا بانه اكبر من جميع قصورات الموجوده في جميع الدنيا و قد
17
.
اسسوه الببوات Tiberius و ا Symmachus Popes Symmachus and Tiberius: Pope Symmachus (498-514CE) built two episcopal residences in the Vatican, one on either side of the basilica, to be used for brief stays. في
18
.
سنة ١٤٧٣ به ٢٢ حوش و ا ١١,٠'٠٠ اوضة كبار مزخرفه بشغل
19
.
الرفيع الدهبي و التصاوير القلم المشهورة باللون الوحيدة في الدنيا
20
.
على اتقانها لانها عملت بقلم Raphaïl Angelo المصور الوحيد في
21
.
جميع الاعصار و الدي قضى عمره بشغل الفاتيكان فأول شيء
22
.
شفناه فهي كنيسة الـ Sixtine التي بها يقدس الـﭙاﭙا في

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01
.
الاعياد طولها ٤٠ متر و بها تصاوير كثير مشهورة صورة الوحيدة التي بها
02
.
و هي وراء الاطرونز بكبر الحائط كله و هي دينونة العامة شي افخر
03
.
ما يوجد و جميع السقوف و الحياطين مصور بها جملة اجناس و بعد الخروج
04
الفاتيكان Vatican
من الكنيسة يوجد اوضة Rapl. Angelo Rapl. Angelo: Possible reference to Rafael (Sanzio da Urbino), famous painter active in the 16th century. He has a series of namesake rooms in the Vatican, which are noted for their large frescoes. Noted for such works as The School of Athens and the Baptism of Constantine. و ثم جينا على صراي التصاوير
05
.
الدي تأسس في وقت البابا بيوس الـسابع به بعض تصاوير التي لا لها ثمن
06
.
ابداً و ليس تقابل مع الغير فأما ‪ ‬ صراي التصاوير The Galleries of Paintings: [in the Sistine Chapel] Established in 1815 by Pius VII, although officially begun under his predecessor Pius VI in 1799. Contains a number of paintings by well-known artists, including Da Vinci and Caravaggio. During the time of Alexander’s travels, the paintings were contained in the Borgia Apartments. به مقدار ٥٠ اوضة مملؤت
07
.
من احسن ما موجود بالدنيا تصاوير القلم و في اوضة شفت صورت
08
.
كبيره طولها مقدلر ٣٠ متر هديه من سلطان اوستريا Sultan of Austria: Alexander may be referring erroneously to a painting by Jan Matejko, entitled John III Sobieski at Vienna. Matejko painted this scene in the mid-19th century in Poland, not under Ottoman rule. The painting is very large; Alexander’s size estimates may have been an exaggeration. It is contained in the “Sobieski” room of the Vatican galleries. http://www.galenfrysinger.com/vatican_city.htm الى الـﭙاﭙا و مصور
09
.
بها حصار ﭭينا بالترك و خلاصها شيء كثير فاخر فبعد ان خلصنا
10
.
من هدا المكان طلعنا الى صراي الانتيكات او الـ Meseum
11
.
الدي هو وحيد بالدنيا على ما به انتيكات الرومانين القديمة مثل
12
.
اصنام و حواوين و غير اشيا تخرع الانسان و يوجد مقدار ١٠٠ اوضة مملؤت
13
.
من هده الاجناس و هنا شفت معلم اعتراف الـﭙاﭙا و كاتباسراره
14
.
كانوا يفوتون بالطرمه و جميع الطرمات بها الحراس لابسين رسمي و واقفين
15
.
يحرسون فصارت ساعه -,١١ و نحن بعد ما شفنا غير نصف ربع الفاتيكان
16
.
و كيفي كثير مخربط و تعبت للغاية من المشي و من دون وقوف .
17
.
اخيراً طلعنا الى قاط الاعلى و من هنا رومية تبان له مع جميع كنائسها و بيوتها
18
.
و هدا المكان هو محل الخصوصي للـﭙاﭙا فأخدنا ادن و زرنا ديوانه و مكان
19
.
جلوسه وقت الدي يجون عنده السلاطين و الأمراء و هو ديوان للغاية
20
.
فاخر و يستحق النظر . بقي شئين ما شفناها و هم صراي الكتب
21
.
و صراي المزوقات و لأجل دلك كان لازم ادن خصوصي
22
.
من رئيس العام فأما صراي الكتب فهو يحوي على ازود من ١٠٠,٠٠٠ كتاب

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01
.
من جميع الالسن الموجوده في الدنيا و صراي المزوقات يحوي على جميع تيجان
02
.
و حجر التمان فزلنا من الفاتيكان Stone of [illegible] و كان ساعه ١٢ و قت الدي
03
.
يزدون الابواب فأخدنا الـOmnibus و جينا رأساً الى الـRestaurant
04
.
و اخدنا فطورنا و انا محم كثير فرجعنا الى الهوتيل و اتتني صخونه قوية كثير
05
.
و بقيت الى الليل ازداد بالحمى.
06
حزيران ٢١*١
اليوم هو الأحد صباح لطيف مع شمس و هده
07
.
الليلة كنت كثير متأدي من الصخونة القوية التي كانت
08
.
معي و الى الصباح نوعاً ما كسرت لكن كثير ضعفت و ما
09
.
قدرت اقوم من الفراش غير الغروب بدلت هدومي
10
.
و رحت اكلت في الـ Restaurant .
11
حزيران ٢٢*١
قمت صباحاً و الوقت طيب و معتمدين نزور الى
12
.
Collosseum او الـ Amphiteatre القديم جداً و الدي الرومانيين
13
.
كانوا يعملوه مثل تياترو و يطلعون به حواوين الوحشه لتعارك الانسان
14
Collosseum
و الناس تتفرج فساعه -,٨ كرينا عربة و رحنا نحو هده البنايانات
15
.
القديمة و هي خارج البلد . بنيت سنة ٧٢ بعد المسيح في
16
.
وقت Vespasian هو معمر من ٣ طباقات طوق و كل قاط
17
.
فيه ٨٠ طاق و الطباقات اشكالها تختلف الاول هو Doric
18
.
و الثاني Ionic و الثالث Corinthian و به هدا الـ Collosseum
19
.
انقتل بمدة ١٠٠ سنة ٥٠٠ حوان وحشي . علوه ١٥٧ فوت
20
.
و طولته طولها ٢٧٨ و عرضها ١٧٧ و كانوا يقدرون يقعدون به ازود
21
.
من ١٠٠,٠٠٠ نفس و بالحقيقة هدا المكان هو الشي العجيب
22
.
و من عمارات القديمة جداً طلعنا من الـ Collosseum

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01
.
و أتينا على اثارات ايضاً قديمة و هو الـArch of Constantine
02
.
طاق كبير جداً من صخر و منقوش من الفوق الى التحت و مصور
03
.
عليه تصاوير قديمية و يسموه ايضاً Arch of Triomph
04
.
و هو واحد من احسن اثار روميه و قد بني سنة ٣١٥ بعد المسيح
05
رومية Roma
و بجانب هده يوجد ايضاً كثرة اثارات قديمة صناعة الرومانيين
06
.
الاقدمين و الى الآن قد وضعوها على حالها و متقيدين عليها فرجعنا
07
.
بعد ساعتين الى الهوتيل . ساعه واحده بعد الظهر حبيت اروح
08
.
مرة اخره الى بروبكندا لأشوف ميخائيل نازو و خصوصاً كابرييل اوساني
09
.
الدي ما شفته بعد فرحنا جميعاً هناك و طلبناه فحالاً اتوا و كثير
10
.
فرحوا لما التقوا مع اهل وطنهم و وعدونا بانهم يأخدون رخصه من
11
.
الرئيس ليقدرون يأتون معنا بكره لنزور كنيسة مار بولص المشهورة
12
.
مثل كنيسة مار بطرس و قالوا لنا الآن هو عيد مار Ignatius
13
.
و يوجد هنا كنيسة خصوصيه له و اليوم هي مزوقه و لازم نشوفها
14
.
فخرجنا من عندهم و انا وعدتهم ارجع بعد ساعتين لاشوف اذا
15
.
حصلوا على الرخصه و ائلا نسافر بكره الى مارسيليا . فبعدما
16
.
جينا الى الهوتيل رحنا لنزور كنيسة مار Ignatius و شفناها مملوئة
17
.
بالخلق و الـ Orgue يدق و الناس تمدح و ضجه كبيره و هي كثير
18
.
حسنه و كبيره بقدر نصف كنيسة مار بطرس و كانوا بها مقدار
19
.
٣٠٠٠ نفس و بعد كان كثير مكان لتأخد فبعد ما زرنا كل شيء
20
.
خرجنا و ردنا نزور الـ Pantheon اي قبر الملك Victor Emmanuel
21
.
سلطان ايتاليا لكن لقينا الباب مسدود و ليس وقت الدخول
22
.
لكن من الخارج كان يبان المكان كثير كبير و عالي .
23
.
رحت ساعه -,٤ عند ميخائيل و كابرئيل و قالوا لي بأن الرئيس اعطاهم
24
.
الرخصه و بكره ساعه ١٠ يأتون عندنا للهوتيل

Page 107


01
حزيران ٢٢
صباح لطيف مع هواء غربي و اليوم كيفي كثير استعدل
02
.
و بعدما بدلنا هدومنا اتوا عندنا ساعه -,٩ ميخائيل و كبرئيل و بقينا نحكي
03
.
كثير على بغداد و ارويتهم صور بعض اناس و هم ايضاً اعطونا صورهم
04
.
و غير اشياء فبعد ساعه راحوا و اوعدونا يأتون ساعه -,٤ بعد الظهر
05
.
ليصحبونا الى كنيسة مار بولص . فساعه -,٤ بعد الظهر وقفوا على كلامهم
06
.
و اتوا لعندنا و جابوا معهم القسسموئيل جميل الكلداني الدي هو
07
.
من زمان هنا و يعرف قس يوسف طويل الدي في بيروت
08
.
فخرجنا جميعاً و رحنا اخدنا الـ Tramway الى كنيسة مار بولص فوصلناها بعد نصف ساعه و دخلنا بها و حقيقة كثير تعجبنا على
10
.
كبرها و على اجناس المرمر الدي بها و التصاوير الـ Mosaïque
11
.
شيء يحير الانسان و هدا الشغل يبان هنا في رومية كثير مشهور
12
.
لأن عمال يصورون به صور كبار و متقنة و كثير لطيفه فداخل
13
.
هده الكنيسة المشهورة و التي هي بعد كنيسة مار بطرس
14
.
بدرجه بها من شغل المرمر عدد لا يعد لكن اي مرمر الدي يتقابل
15
.
بالدهب و يوجد منبر على يد اليمين عن الدخله مرمر أخضر
16
.
و قالوا لي بأن هدا يعادل دهب اصفر فعلى يد اليسره
17
.
يمتد عواميد كثيره الى داخل اي الباب اعني بقدر ١٨٠
18
.
عامود من مرمر السماقي العال اللامع و علاي و من وصله واحده
19
.
و كدلك على الاطراف و فوق دائر العواميد يوجد تصاوير
20
.
جميع ﭙﭙاوات الدي صاروا و الجميع شغل Mosaïque و بنصف
21
.
الكنيسة يوجد قبر مار بولص لكن فقط جثته لأن
22
.
زعموا بأن رأسه لما قطع اندفن في غير مكان و لأجل

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01
.
دلك يوجد كنيسة اخرى باسم مار بولص لكن كثير اصغر من هده .
02
.
كنيسة مار بولص تعد من افخر كنائس الدنيا و هي الثانية لكنيسة
03
كنيسة Basilique
مار بطرس التي ما يوجد مثلها في جميع الدنيا . هده الكنيسة اي
04
.
مار بولص قبل ٢٧ سنه كانت قد خربت جداً لانها احترقت Fire: [in St.Paul's Basillica] Reference to Basilica of St. Paul Outside the Walls, built over the grave of St. Paul in the 4th century CE. The referenced fire occurred in 1823 and damaged significant portions of the church. The church was re-consecrated in 1855.
05
.
و جميع السقف وقع و ازود التصاوير العال انعدموا و من دلك الوقت
06
.
الى الآن عمال يبنون بها و يوجد خارجها ايضاً بعض بنيايات
07
.
التي ما خلصت . فبعد ما خلصنا من التفرج و ايضاً كانوا جملة
08
.
اناس هناك طلعنا خارج و يوجد بجانبها مكان يستريحون
09
.
به و يبيعون نبيد و غير اشياء فقعدنا مقدار نصف ساعه
10
.
و بعده اخدنا الـ Tramway و رجعنا الى البلد . الكنيسة هي
11
.
خارج البلد و تبعد ميلين كبرها طولاً هو فوت
12
.
و عرضها كدلك فوت . دخلنا على دربنا الى الهوتيل
13
.
الى كنيسة اخره يسموه كنيسة Jésus و ايضاً كثير لطيفه
14
.
و مزوقه و بها صوره عجائَبية و قبر مار اغناطيوس .
15
.
فرجعنا الغروب الى الهوتيل و هنا تواعدنا مع ميخائيل و كبرئيل و
16
.
القسجميل لأن بكره لازم نسافر من هنا و حقيقة انا كثير ممنون
17
.
لجميع ما عملوه معي من المعروف .
18
.

19
.


20
حزيران ٢٣
قمت ساعه ٦ و الصباح بهج مع قليل برد و بعد ما
21
.
بدلت هدومي و شربت الجاي لميت اغراضي و شديتها و تهيئت
22
.
للسفر فساعه -,٧ تركنا هوتيل دوريان و اعطينا حقهم اي ٤٢ فرنك

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01
.
و كرينا عربة و وضعنا اسبابنا و سقنا الى المحطة لنأخد الاترين فبعد ما
02
.
وصلنا و نولنا هنا صناديقنا الاثنين رأساً الى مارسيليا و اعطينا حقها
03
.
٢٨ فرنك ركبنا بالاترين الـ Express الدي يروح خفيف و من
04
.
دون تعطيل فمشينا من محطة رومية ساعه ٨ تمام .
05
جنوة Génes
9,25 Civatavvecchia left 9,30 = Corveto 9,46 l 9,47 =
06
.
10,40 Orbettelo l 10,55 = 11,25 Grosetto l 11,32 =
07
.
12,25 Campiglia l 12,30 = 1,5 Cecena l 1,16 =
08
.
1,52 Colle salvetti l 1,55 = 2,15 Pisa a big town
09
.
left 2,30 = 2,44 Viareggio l 2,47 = 3,5 Pietrasanta l 3,7 =
10
.
3,20 Massa l 3,21 = 3,26 Spetzia l 3,28 =
11
.
3,40 Sarzana l 3,45 = 3,53 Vezzano l 3,55 =
12
.
4,40 Levanto , 4,43 here we passed several
13
.
tunnels for 2 hours we were going each 1 second
14
.
under a long tunnel of 5 + 10 minutes I coun-
15
.
ted about 50 + always alongside the sea .
16
.
4,58 Sestri Levante l 5,0 = 5,25 Chiavari l 5,30
17
.
و ساعه ٦,٣٧ و صلنا محطة جنوه و دخلنا بالبلد و شفنا
18
.
مقدار ٢٠ عربة خاصة الهوتيلات تنتظر الركاب فأخدنا عربة
19
.
Hotel de Genéve و سقنا الى الهوتيل فأتيناه و اخدنا
20
.
اوضتين و انا كثير ضعيف من التعب فقبل الغروب رحنا و دخلنا
21
.
في كنيسة قبال الهوتيل اسمها Anunziata Church of the Annunciation: Basilica della Santissima Annunziata, is a Catholic cathedral (1520) located in Genoa, Italy. اي كنيسة البشارة
22
.
و حقيقة كثير تعجبت على الشغل الدي بها و السقوف جميعها بها تصاوير
23
.
و مدهبه مع جراجيب على كسم البناية شي يحير و هي كبيره و لطيفه

Page 110


01
.
جداً فرجعنا الهوتيل و تعشينا و بعده نمنا .
02
حزيران ٢٤
قمنا ساعه ٧ و بعد ما غسلنا و شربنا الجاي نزلنا
03
.
و اعطينا حق الهوتيل اي ١٢ فرنك و أكل الدي اعطونا اياه
04
.
البارحه قطعياً ما كان مليح و كثير غالي . جنوه هي بلد كبيره جداً
05
.
اعني بقدر ناپولي و لطيفه على ترتيب روميه و بها عربة الكهرباي
06
.
و غير اشياء . بعد ما خلصنا من الهوتيل اخدنا العربه و رحنا الى
07
.
المحطة لنروح الى نيس Nice فوصلنا المحطة ساعه -, 8
08
.
و الاترين ما يمشي ساعه ٩,٢٠ فقعدنا ننتظر في المحطة فساعه 9
09
.
ركبنا بالاترين و ٩,٢٠ سافر من جنوه و طلع من المحطة
10
.
9,30 Sampierd l 9,32 = 9,44 Corniliagno 9,45 =
11
.
9,59 Pegli l 10,1 = 10,9 Voltri l 10,10 =
12
.
10,27 Arenzano l 10,30 = 10,40 Cogoletto l 10,41 =
13
.
10,59 Gella l 11,0 = 11,6 Albisolla l 11,7 =
14
.
11,15 Savona l 11,25 = 11,38 Berjeggil 11,39 =
15
.
11,50 Noli l 11,51 = 11,59 Varigotti l 12,0 =
16
.
12,5 Finalmarina l 12,10 = 12,14 Bergo l 12,15 =
17
.
12,20 Pietrligure l 12,21 = 12:27 Lomo l 12,30 =
18
.
12,45 Albenga l 12,47 = 1,0 Alassio l 1,3 =
19
.
1,16 Andora l 1,17 = 1,28 Cervo l 1,29 =
20
.
1,37 Onuglia 1,39 = 1,50 Porto Morizo l 1,53 =
21
.
2,2 San Lorenzo 2,3 = 2,20 Taggia l 2,2 =
22
.
2,32 San Remo 2,35 = 2,55 Bordighera 2,59 =

Page 111


01
.
فساعه ٣,١٠ وصلنا Vintimiglia و هنا نزلنا من الاترين لأن
02
.
الى هنا تخلص ايتاليا و تبدي حدود فرنسا و يوجد ايضاً الكمرك
03
.
فاخدنا اغراضنا و جينا الى الكمرك و بعد الكشف اخدناها و رحنا
04
.
الى عربة فرنساوية التي تروح رأساً الى باريز و تمر على مارسيليا
05
.
فشفنا الاوفق ان نروح من هنا راساً الى مارسيليا و ما نقف
06
.
في نيس فاعتمدنا على دلك و ركبنا بالاترين و هنا الساعات
07
.
و الوقت يتغير و ينزل ساعه اقل من وقت ايتاليا فرجعنا
08
.
ساعاتنا الى ساعه اقل فمشي بنا الاترين من Vintimiglia
09
.
ساعه ٣,٥ على ساعه فرنسا
10
.
3:17 هنا يوجد عندي اثنين اتكاتب معهم Mentone left 3,19
11
.
3,58 Mont Carlo -„- 4,2 = 4,6 Monaco left 4,7 =
12
.
4,23 Beaulieu -„- 4, 25 = 4,29 Villefranche 4,30 =
13
.
4,34 Nice Niqueur -„- 4,35 = 4,37 Nice
14
.
و هنا وقفنا كثير لأن يوجد محل للأكل فاشترينا عشانا
15
.
لنأكله بالعربه و ساعه ٥,٣ مشي
16
.
5,25 Antibes left 5,28 = 5,45 Cannes left 5,50
17
.
هده الاطراف للغاية جميلة و مشهورة في جميع الدنيا لانها على البحر
18
.
و الاشجار بها كثيرة و بين البيوت و حتى الملوك يجون
19
.
هنا يبدلون الهواء و خصوصاً في نيس لأن مناخها كثير طيب
20
.
6,33 St. Raphail l 6,37 = 6,42 Fréjus left 6,44 =
21
.
7,12 Les Arcs l 7,38 = 8,55 Hyres -„- 8,57 =
22
.
@ 9,7 Toulon l 9,22 = 11,49 Marseille

Page 112


01
.

02
.
الرواح و المجي
03
.
فكان وصولنا الى هده البلد اللطيفه ساعه ١١,٤٧ بالاترين
04
.
بعد الغروب فطلعنا و حالاً كرينا عربة و سقنا بين هده الادروب
05
مارسيليا
> الفاخره العمارات و الرواح و المجي بالاسواق كان نوعاً ما قد
06
.
قل لأن صار قريب نصف الليل فجينا على هوتيل الدي كان
07
.
قد كتبنا لصديقنا نصوري صايغ هنا ليحضره لنا فديقنا الباب
08
.
ففتحه صاحب الهوتيل و دخلنا و حالاً اعطانا قبب لننام بها و هدا
09
.
الهوتيل اسمه Rubi في N-º 103 Rue Paradis فبعدما دخلنا
10
.
اعزلنا نمنا و الوقت كان ساعه ١٢ .
11
حزيران 25
قمت صباحاً و الوقت طيب لكن على حروره و الهواء
12
.
غربي فبعد ما بدلنا و ساعه -,٩ رحت مع الوالد لندور
13
Marseille
على مسيو نصوري صايغ و رحنا في 29 Rue St. Jacques كما
14
.
كنا نعرف من سابق بانه هنا فدقينا و طلعوا و قالوا لنا بأنه
15
.
في الاوفيس و هدا مكان سكنه فقط و مكان شغله في 27 Rue
16
.
des Princes فرحنا هنا و لقيناه و فرحنا به و كدلك هو و انا ما كنت
17
.
اعرفه قبل فاعطانا جملة مكاتيب لي من بغداد و من البلاد و من مكاتيب
18
.
بغداد افتهمت على وفات مسيو فاسيلاكي واسطه يعقوب
19
.
شماني و غير اشياء لكن من الاهل الى الآن ما اخدنا
20
.
شيء و من بيروت ما عندنا خبر عنهم فرجعت من عند نصوري
21
.
ساعه ١٠ و وعدنا بعد الظهر يجي يزورنا. دورت كثير حتى
22
.
القي هنا اليوم صديقي حنا تبوني لكن ما عرفت كيف اروح

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01
.
الى مكان سكنه في 23 Boulevard des Dames فبعد الظهر اتى عندنا
02
.
و نصوري و قريب المغرب رحنا معه لندور قليل و نصوري هو حده
03
.
في البلد لأن امرأته و ولده قد خرجوا من البلد يبدلون هواء الى
04
مارسيليا Marseille
مكان تبعد عن مارسيليا بنصف ساعه فأخدت انا معلومات من نصوري كيف اروح اشوف حنا تبوني في مكانه فعرفنا بأن
06
.
أخد الـترام الى الدرب فحالاً اخدت الترام الدي مكتوب
07
.
عليه Jolliette و Castillan . و اعطيت ١٠ سنتيم و بعد
08
.
١٥ دقيقة وصلت الدرب فطلعت و دورت على النمره
09
.
فلقيتها فطلعت الى مكانه و دقيت الباب فطلعت امرأه عجوز
10
.
و قالت لي بأنه ليس هنا و قد خرج فكتبت له كارت و قلت
11
.
له بأننا هنا من البارح بالليل و مشتاق اشوفه فلازم يجي بعد
12
.
العشاء عندي في فلان هوتيل و افلان طريق و نمره فأخدت
13
.
بالعكس الاترام الى Rue St. Jacques و وصلت و اتيت الى
14
.
الهوتيل و بقيت انتظر حنا فساعه -,٧ اتى و كثير فرحت
15
.
لما شفته و تدكرت بغداد و الاصدقاء و الاهل فبقيت معه
16
.
مقدار ساعه و ثم خرجنا ساعه ٩ سوية و درنا بالدروب و رحنا
17
.
الى مكان الـ Cannebière مكان معتبر كثير و لطيف و الناس عمال
18
.
تنفش مثل الدود فودعته هنا و قلت له بأن يجي غداً صباحاً عندي
19
.
و هو متوضف في كمبنية تجارية المراكب في ١٠٠ فرنك في الشهر
20
.
فرجعت الهوتيل وحدي بالترام ساعه -,١٠ .
21
.
بعد ما قمت و الوقت كان وخم اتى عندي
22
.
حنا تبوني و بقي لحد ساعه ساعه -,٧ و اوعدنا بأن غداً يجي لعندنا

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01
.
حتى نروح نسمع القداس معه في كنيسة لأن غداً هو يوم الأحد . فساعه
02
.
-,٩ رحنا الى عند الخواجا نصوري و بما كان لي حساب معه تحاسبت
03
.
و اخدت منه ٢٤٢ فرنك باقي دراهم التي عنده و رجعت البيت
04
.
و بعده رحنا ثلاثتنا الى الحمام هنا ليس بعيد عننا و يسموها Bains Paradis Bains Paradis
05
مارسيليا Marseille
Paradis و استحمينا و اعطينا ٣ فرنكات. البارحه خبرني حنا بأن
06
.
رزوق رفي صديقنا في بغداد قد اتى الى مارسيليا Turkistan: [ship] بمركب تركستان
07
.
من قبل ٤ ايام و وعدني بانه يرسله لعندي بعد الظهر . لقينا
08
.
بالهوتيل صندوق الدي كان قد بعتناه من بغداد قبل طلوعنا الى
09
.
هنا و يحوي على بعض زخيره مثل تمر و عرق و غير اشياء و بعد الفطور
10
.
فتحناه و لقيت ايضاً كتابي الاﭙوال اي الالبم الدي كان قد بَعَتًََهُ
11
.
الى هنا . فالعصر اتى لعندي رزوق رفي و كثير انسريت لما شفته
12
.
و قد اتى قريباً من البصرة في مركب تركستان الدي وصل هنا قبل ٥ ايام
13
.
و سافر الى لندن فاخدت رزوق و طلعت ادور في عقود و اطراف
14
.
مارسيليا اللطيفة و حقيقة كثير عجبتني مارسيليا و هي آخر بلد الدي
15
.
شفتها هكدا زريفه و لها مينة كثيره معتبره فالغروب
16
.
رجعت و لقيت عندنا مسيو صايغ و كلفنا بأن غداً الأحد نروح
17
.
نفطر عنده و هو ليس بالبلد قد طلع الى الخارج يقضي الصيف
18
.
اي في Montredon و اعطانا مكان بيته و نمرته . بعد
19
.
العشاء خرجنا و رحنا الى اطراف الـ Cannebière Cannebière و تعجبنا على ما شفنا
20
.
بالدرب من الخلق و الانشراح و هدا احسن دروب الدي موجوده
21
حزيران ٢٦
في هده الحاراتــــــــــ فرجعنا بعد ساعه الى
22
.
الهوتيل .

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01
حزيران ٢٧
قمت صباحاً لأن لازم انتظر حنا تبوني و رزوق
02
.
لنروح نسمع قداس في كنيسة مفتخره فوق الجبل و اسمها
03
مارسيليا
Notre Dame de la Garde Notre Dame de la Garde . الوقت وخم كثير و على حروره
04
.
و هواء ما يوجد فساعه -,٧ اجوا و بعد نصف ساعه رحنا الى محل
05
.
الدي يطلعون الى الجبل و يوجد هنا Ascenseur يصعدون
06
.
به فقعدنا جميعاً و اعطينا لكل نفس ٤٠ سنتيم و طلعنا بهدا
07
.
اللألة اللطيفه و هي عبارة عن عربه تطلع على الحائط الى اعلى
08
.
الجبل فوصلنا الى فوق و تساوت العربه مع الممشى فخرجنا منها
09
.
و الوقت كان كثير حار و جينا اولاً على مكان انصى
10
Notre Dame de la Garde
من الكنيسة و يوجد مكان به الدخائر و كم صورة و على اليسار
11
.
كسم يسوع مائت فبعدها طلعنا و دخلنا بالكنيسة و كان
12
.
القداس يبدي فسمعناه و الكنيسة هي ليست كبيره
13
.
جداً لكن عاليه و لها تمثال فوق القبة كبير جداً و يقولوا
14
.
في التاج يدخلون آدمين و عيون التمثال هي درابين
15
.
يشوفون من بعد على المراكب الآتيه و التي هي بخطر لأن
16
.
الكنيسة على البحر و جميع مارسيليا تبان تحت و منظر للغاية
17
.
حلو و كانوا جملة اناس فوق مقدار ٥٠٠/٤٠٠ و منهم يجيبون معهم الفطور
18
.
ليتغدوا هناك فبعد ما تفرجنا على كل شيء نزلنا في السكه و ليس
19
.
بالعربه النزول و حقيقة كثير تعبنا لأن النزله صعبه من هكدا
20
.
علو فوصلنا الارض و مشينا آتين الى الهوتيل ما بين اشجار
21
.
لطيفه و دلك في Boulevard N. Dame فوصلنا البيت
22
.
ساعه -,١٠ و انتظرنا نصف ساعه و رحنا الى Rue de Rome

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01
.
لنأخد الـ Omnibus و نروح لعند نصوري فمشينا في الكباري
02
.
و رحنا الى Montredon مكان نصوري فوصلنا بعد نصف
03
.
ساعه و اعطينا ٣٥ سنتيم كل واحد فاستقبلنا نصوري بباب البيت
04
.
و دخلنا لعنده في بيت صغير لكن موقعه لطيف على البحر و الهواء
05
.
كثير طيب فشفنا ايضاً امرائته و ولده و الظهر فطرنا و ساعه ٣ رجعنا بالامنيبس الى الهوتيل امرأتة نصوري كثير ساكنه
07
.
و عاقله و عمرها مقدار ٣٥ سنه شفنا في باب الهوتيل حنا و رزوق
08
.
ينتظرونا لنروح معهم الى بستان الحواوين اي Jardin
09
.
Zoologique Jardin Zoologique فرحنا الى Rue Cannebière و اخدنا الـ
10
.
Tramway الى Longchamps فوصلنا هناك و حقيقة
11
.
هدا الدرب كثير لطيف و اشجار على الصفين فوصلنا بستان
12
.
الحواوين و قبل كل شي دخلنا شفنا صراي الصور و هو ايضاً
13
.
لطيف و ثم طلعنا الى مكان عالي بين ورود و زروعات
14
.
و من هناك نزلنا على البستان التي كانت مملوئة من الناس
15
.
و المسيقة تدق بالوسط و كما اليوم هو الأحد جميع الدين
16
.
يدخلون هم مجاناً فتفرجنا هنا على ازود اجناس الحواوين مثل
17
.
انواع الطيور و البط و الوز و الابل و اجناس الخرفان الجبال و على الدب
18
.
الاسود و الابيض و الاملح و على الزيبرا و الفيل و السباع و الشوادي
19
.
و غير اشياء التي صدق تسوى الشوف فبقينا ندور مقدار ساعتين
20
.
و عند الغروب اخدنا عربه و رجعنا الى محلنا .
21
حزيران ٢٨
صباح لطيف مع هواء غربي فبعد ما خلصنا
22
.
من التبديل اي ساعه ٩ اتى مسيوTiers دلال نصوري الدي

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01
.
يشتغل عنده و هو رجل عمره مقدار ٤٠ سنه و قابل ليأخدنا و دورنا في
02
.
المخازن لمشتري بعض اغراض فرحنا معه الى اكبر دكاكين
03
مارسيليا Marseille
و اشترينا بعض ملبوسات و حوائج و رجعنا بعد الظهر للبيت
04
.
ساعه -,٣ رحت لعند نصوري و كتبت له حواله من الوالده الى بغداد
05
.
بقدر الف فرنك و قال بعد نصف ساعه يجي و يجيبها معه فرحت
06
.
انا خارج لادور في الدكاكين بريسم لأجل الحياكه لارسله الى
07
.
روزه بنت الخال فلقيت عند واحده و اشتريت منها قدر كبير اي
08
.
٢٠٠ كرام و عملوه لي باكيتين لارسلهم بالبوسطه فاخدتهم و رحت
09
.
البوسطه الـ Central اي الكبيره و هنا جميع الكتاب
10
.
هم بنات جهال من ١٨ الى ٢٠ سنه و طلبت منهم ان يرسلوه
11
.
لي فما قبلوا لأن الباكيت كان كبير و قالوا الاحسن ان اعملهم
12
.
٣ وصل فاختصبت ان ارجعهم الى الدكان ليعملوه لي ٣ وصل
13
.
فعملوه لي و رجعت للبيت و لقيت قد جاء نصوري و أخد الوالدين
14
.
ليدوروا فلحقتهم لكن ما لقيتهم و مريت على واحد يبيع كتب
15
.
و اشتريت كتابين واحد يعلم الرقص و الأخر اشعار و عملتهم
16
.
باكيت لارسلهم بكره بالبوسطه الواحد الى جان بهلوان و الآخر
17
.
الى نصوري بحوشي . فرجعت الغروب للبيت .
18
حزيران ٢٩
قمت صباحاً و الوقت نوعاً ما حار فساعه ٩
19
.
اجاء ايضاً ليأخدنا مسيو Tiers فرحنا معه الى واحد يطبع
20
.
كارت فزيت و طلبنا منه ليعمل لنا كم ماية و ثم رجعنا الى مخزن
21
.
كبير يسموه Magasin Général و هنا يبيعون كل شي الدي الانسان
22
.
يشتهي من ملبوس و نواعم و غير اشياء التي تحير العقل و اشترينا

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01
.
جملة اشياء و قبل الظهر رجعنا للبيت و بدينا نلم اغراض التي لازم
02
.
نرسلها لبغداد من هنا . ساعه -,٢ اتى عندي حنا تبوني
03
مارسيليا
> و خرجت معه لادور بالاسواق فجينا على مكان الدي به يرون
04
.
الفوتوكرافات تتحرك و يسموها الـ Cinamétographe و الدخله ٥٠
05
.
سنتيم و حقيقة مسئلة تعجب و تحير يقدر الانسان يشوف
06
.
الاوادم بها تمشي و تحكي و كانها طبيعيه تمام فبعد نصف ساعه
07
.
خرجنا و رجعت للبيت و لقيت عندنا نصوري و بعد ما راح اخدنا
08
.
الوالده و خرجنا ثانيةً و اشترينا كدلك بعض اغراض و رجعنا
09
.
الغروب . نصوري عزمنا على الفطور عنده غداً الظهر و كثير
10
.
لح علينا بالرواح فقبلنا دلك .
11
حزيران ٣٠
صباح مزعج و الوقت للغاية وخم مع غيم و حار
12
.
شديد فبعد ما قمنا من النوم وضعنا اسبابنا في الصناديق
13
.
و رتبنا كل شيء لأن لازم نسافر من هنا بعد بكره لأن
14
.
صار لنا مده هنا . ساعه ١١ جاء عندنا نصوري و جاب لنا
15
Marseille
مكاتيب من بغداد اعني من العم هندري و جاني و من الخال انطون
16
.
و فرحنا كثير باستماعنا اخبار وطننا و يخبرونا بأن كيفهم مليح جميعاً
17
Marseille
و الحر عندهم كثير قوي و مطران السريان Syriac Archbishop: [in Mosul] قد سافر الى الموصل
18
.
ليشوف دعوته هناك و كدلك سافر القس يوسف جرجي و غير
19
.
اشياء فبعد ما قرينا المكاتيب اخدنا نصوري و رحنا الى مكان
20
.
الترين لنأخده الـ Montredon مكان نصوري فالوقت
21
.
للغاية كان مزعج و الهواء قوي يابس و التراب عمى عيوننا لحتى
22
.
وصلنا هناك و استقبلتنا امرأته بكل تمرحيب و بعد الفطور

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01
.
اتت والدت امرأته فساعه ٣ رجعنا معه للبلد و توادعنا معهم اخيراً .
02
.
فوصلنا البيت و شفنا بأن شغلنا بعد ما خلص و نسافر من هنا بعد
03
.
بكره . بعد العشاء رحنا الى طرف الـ Cannebière و بعد ساعه رجعنا .