Travel Journal – May

May

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It was a cold morning, colder than any other day,
and it seems that the higher we go the colder it becomes. The night was cold too, colder than yesterday.
At 7:15 we left al-Showayt and we marched on an even flat land resembling
Baghdad's lands, but always keeping the mountains on our left. Here the kroud grew more numerous
on the banks of the Euphrates and there are also many wide sandbanks in the river. At 12:15,

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we arrived at the village of al-Mayadin al-Mayadin: A town in eastern Syria built in 1868 on the right bank of the Euphrates River. It lies about 45 kilometers south of Dayr al-Zawr. The name means "field" in Arabic and it once a training ground for cavalry. al-Mayadi was a pricipal town in the Syrian desert and an important market for the exchange of goods with Bedouins. , which came into view one hour and a half's march away.
We saw the village mulberry trees first. I found it a big town, bigger than all the others
we passed except al-'Ana. Some of the houses are built on high ground and are like those at al-Hit.
Mostly they are well built with baked bricks, plaster, and large doors made
in the usual manner. Everything is available here. Several kinds of food and clothing,
white bread, meat, and other things. At 1:00 in the afternoon we found a place to stop.
The caravan encamped on a high, dry bank facing an extremely wide, green riverbank.
From here we have maybe just eight hours left until al-Dayr, where we will ride tomorrow morning, God permitting.
The stifling heat grew worse in the afternoon, with
black rain-filled clouds. We had only just arrived at 2:30 when a downpour hit us
along with an extremely strong westerly wind, drenching us all.
The rain came into the tent and soaked the beds. It continued for nearly
15 minutes with flashes of lightening and loud claps of thunder. It stopped raining half an hour later and the wind lessened but
the desert became muddy and impossible to cross. This rain cloud did a lot of damage
since we are in such a place with absolutely no shelter. The wind was still blowing as before
but the weather has cleared a little and the sun came out. However, if the rain comes again,
we will be totally lost and we are worried about the night. Passing by al-Mayadin
we saw buildings on the mountaintop on our left that are extremely old and bigger than those we saw
yesterday. I wanted to go and look if it were not for this damned weather that prevented me. Some say that these places
built so long ago are called rahabah or rahabut al-Rahabah: [rahabah, rahabut] A town mentioned in the Old Testament spelled Rah bout that was most probably built by Ninroud Bin Koush in 2000 BCE. It was one of the Aramaic principalities destroyed by the Assyrians upon the rise of their Empire. Today, the site is known as the "Rahbi Citadel" or "Rahba Citadel" or "Qalaat al-Rahba," an Arab fortress built by Assad al-Din Shirgoh who was the uncle of Salah al-Din al-Ayoubi. It was rebuilt to ensure the protection of the Euphrates route and to withstand Tatar and Mongol invasions. as is written in the Old Testament.
They are about 2500 to 2800 years old and truly worth seeing.
Colonel Mockler, who had been to see them this morning, said that on some of the walls there are Syriac Syriac: Referring to the Syriac Christians, a community rooted in Near Eastern Christianity. The Syriac language developed out of Aramaic to become the literary language of the Aramaic Christians in the Eastern provinces of the Roman Empire and further east in the Sassanian Empire. In the 5th century, the Nestorian schism and the Council of Chalcedon led to significant shifts in the Church. Ctesiphon became the capital in the East and Antioch in the West. In the 18th and 19th centuries, Syriac Christians formed distinct but not isolated communities in Syria, Iraq, and Jordan. ["Syriac" in Encyclopedia of Medieval Islamic Civilization] TO COMPLETE: REFERENCE IS TO SYRIAC LITERATURE engravings,
one depicts a lion with a human figure underneath and other things. I regret that I did not see these places.

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A COLD MORNING with a strong westerly wind blowing. The night was
extremely cold and wet. We were up at 5:30 and after drinking tea we gathered the ropes, tents, and everything else and
loaded them onto the animals. At 7:15 we rode toward Dayr al-Zawr leaving
al-Mayadin behind us in a half hour. We marched
on even, flat terrain, resembling the wilds around Baghdad, always keeping the chain of hills on our right.
We found the ground wet after yesterday's rainfall but after two hours' march the desert
appeared dry. The rain had only been in our vicinity. Thus we traveled on,
sometimes through cultivated lands and sometimes over arid lands. At 9:30 we passed
through the region of the Khabur River Khabur: Name of a river in Syria; al-Khabur [Nahr al-Khabur (Ar.), Habur Nehri (Tr.)] was an important tributary of the Euphrates River. It rises in the mountains of southeastern Turkey near Diyarbakr and flows southeastward to al-Hasakah, Syria, where it receives its main tributary, the Jaghjagh. It then meanders south to join the Euphrates downstream from Dayr az-Zawr. The Khabur (“Source of Fertility") has a total length of about 200 miles (320 km). The climate of the drainage basin is warm and semiarid to arid. The river has long been important for irrigating the fertile al-Hasakah region of northeastern Syria. , but we could not see it in the distance. At last,
at one in the afternoon, we came to a sandy region and here we were hit by a strong gust of wind mixed with sand and
dust that nearly blinded us. We passed through it in just half an hour. At 2:00 in the afternoon
the town of Dayr al-Zawr came into view in the distance. We continued to march between small hills
behind which the town would sometimes vanish and then reappear. Truly, I was overcome by joy
when we approached a half hour's distance because 17 days of travel through the desert, always among the nomads,
and never seeing any of our own kind had saddened my heart. Then, when we were
one quarter of an hour away, the town came into full view, resembling the entrance to Baghdad from Bab al-Mo'adhdham Bab al-Mo'adhdham: The gate at the northeastern entrance to Baghdad. Originally named "Bab al-Sultan" in honor of the Seljuk Sultan Tagur Bek (1055 CE), the gate was demolished in 1923. The name was subsequently changed as the gate then led to the big mosque of Imam al-Mo'adhdham. .
In this moment I remembered my homeland and everything there. Because Colonel
Mockler was at the head of the caravan, he was received by the zaptiye battalion commandant Battalion commandant: [(Tr.)tabura-ghassi] Tabur is a Battalion of about 800 men and ghassi could be translated here as 'leader'.
and the chief of the municipality along with ten zaptiye Zaptiye: [zaptieh (Tr.), zabite (Ar.)] The 'policing' (zabita) in Ottoman times was usually carried out by companies of the janissaries and so was a military function. The Zaptiye was officially established by a 1869 Tanzimat Military Code which established a police force distinct from the army. However, because this police force was armed it came under the jurisdiction of the Military Commander in Chief’s Office and was organized on military lines with a company (bölük) of 200 men, battalion (tabur) of 800, and regiment (alay) of 3200, commanded by a Bölük Ağası, Tabur Ağası, and Alay Beyi. The individuals were called 'zaptiye'. The zaptiye were later called 'jandarma' (gendarmes). who led us to the edge of town.
A large crowd, a great number of men and boys, were at the town gate watching us.
I was very pleased to find a few Christians among the boys
I was able to speak to them in Arabic and asked about things in the town

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and other topics. Just then they told us that we would have to be inspected for the plague before entering and
the military physician must examine us. We all stopped and they sent the men and boys away.
The physician came and examined every one of us by feeling under
the armpit. A woman came also to examine the women. A few minutes later we entered the town
and people were still coming to look at us. Truthfully, the way they had examined us
is quite ridiculous because it was done with some kind of mockery. Both physicians did nothing more than lay
their hands on us and say, "Go, you have nothing." That is also some kind of Turkish business.
In the end, as my eyes passed over the group of people looking from one person to the next,
Razouk Dinha whom I know very well from his time in Baghdad and Basrah appeared right in front of me!
I was so pleased as we greeted each other, remembering my time in Baghdad,
I talked to him all the while I walked. I learned that Colonel Mockler decided to camp in the municipality orchard,
at the invitation of the chief of the municipality. He was unable to decline. At last we entered through the market,
roofed over like an orchard trellis. We arrived at a very long and wide road,
nearly 20 cubits in width and paved in European order. It is a thousand times better than the roads of
Baghdad. Here there is never any mud on the roads.
Next to the wall is a marble irrigation canal which they use to sprinkle the long road and nearby few small
mulberry trees are planted. It appears that this road will be extremely pleasant in due time.
Coming to the orchard gate we saw that the road had been sprinkled with water
and military people were waiting for us. The chief of the municipality received us very cordially. We entered
a well-designed and furnished office. When the caravan arrived
we put up the tents in a pleasant place in the orchard. The orchard has many
pomegranate trees and other greenery, like bean plants and ...[illegible] “...”: Illegible word. . Among the people here, I also recognized Thomas
Ossany Thomas Ossany: Ossany moved to the village of Amara in 1873 with his wife and six children where he was appointed a member of the Mejlis of Tamayyiz. In 1875, he was replaced by Fathalla Sayegh. [JMS-MM12:94; MM15:15] who came from Baghdad 11 months ago with Razouk Dinha.

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He asked me many things about Baghdad. After we settled in I wanted to go to church because
they told me there are two of them here. It is also the month of Holy Devotions to Mary Holy Month of Mary: [(Ar.)al-shahr al-maryiami]The annual month of devotions to the Virgin Mary in May.
and I wanted to hear them. So I took mother and Razouk with me to the Armenian Catholic Church Armenian Catholic Church: The Armenian Catholic Church is an Eastern Catholic Church. Historically it represents a schism from the Armenian Apostolic Church. It is in full compliance with and subject to the authority of the pope in Rome. The Catholic Armenians have dioceses in many countries of the Middle East, Europe, and the Americas. In 1928, the Armenian Catholic Church in Lebanon was administratively, academically, culturally reorganized. The congregation includes approximately thirty thousand people, served by about thirty priests and monks, spread over eight parishes. Despite a broad diaspora, the Armenian people maintain a sense of their national, cultural, and religious identity. .
I found it very pleasing, decorated, and rather small, holding no more than 50 to 70 people.
All the pictures and statues inside are lovely and I very much liked it. After hearing the prayers of the month of Holy Devotions to
Mary we returned to the tents. After dinner at sunset Razouk came to spend the evening with us.
He invited us for lunch at his house tomorrow and we promised to come.
It became cold and damp at sunset.
Today we got up as usual and drank tea. The night was stuffy
and the morning likewise. At 8:30 I went with Colonel Mockler to visit
the church I saw yesterday and we met the priest, named Father
Narciss. We also met the Syriac Parson Yaqoub who heads the Syriac sect here.
As we were leaving the priests expressed their desire to visit us.
Colonel Mockler said he would be available in one hour. So we returned to the camp.
Half an hour later, Razouk and Tommy Ossany came to visit us followed by the priests with Sa'id Effendi Sa’id Effendi: Archbishop Ignatius’ brother. ,
brother of Archbishop Ignatius Archbishop Ignatius: [Khoury Ignatius] The Assyrian priest traveled from Basrah to Baghdad on board Lynch Bros. Steamship. In March 1891, he gave Joseph Mathias two letters of introduction for his travels in Europe. [JMS-MM33:171, 172; MM44:5; MM35:195] in Baghdad. They received two letters
about us. Half an hour later they left and went to visit Colonel Mockler. I wanted to bathe,
shave, and get a haircut. I seized the opportunity, took my clothes,
and went to the bath run by Antone, the son of Batti al-Baghdadi.
I went to a barber for a haircut and a shave. I went to bathe afterwards
and I found it pleasant, hot, and paved with marble.
Returning to our place an hour later I found Touza, Jarjous's wife and the sister
of our friend Archbishop Basil Archbishop Basil: In September 1889, Basil wroted to Joseph Matthias informing him of the arrival of his neice Alice and her husband Captain Clements. [JMS-NA59:133] , who was in Baghdad seven years ago.

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They came to visit us with the wife of the municipal physician. They are very nice people and speak
softly with extreme politeness. It turned 12:30 and they were still with us.
At last they left and we set out at once for Razouk's where we also found the Armenian priest who joined us for lunch.
They served lamb and kubba mosul Kubba Mosul: (Ar.) A kind of meatball made of bulgur, onions, minced meat and spices. . We returned at 2:30 when
I took the opportunity to write these lines. Afterwards I went to see the town. On my way back I went to
the place of Anton Baghdibaghdassar with whom I was able to strike up a
friendship when I arrived here yesterday. He is a nice man from Damascus, about 27 years old. He owns
a big shop where he sells everything. He offered me a sherbet and I bought some apricot jam from him.
Later, I went with Colonel Mockler to tour the town and returned at sunset. I went to bed
after dinner.
Unlike before, this morning was moderately cold and it became somewhat hot. The night was
not as cold as yesterday. We awoke and drank tea and decided to visit the guests
who had called on us yesterday. I left the orchard with my mother and father and we went to visit
the Armenian Father Narciss. His sister-in-law, the wife of Jarjis Dikran, came also. After
a long talk we left and went to visit Archbishop Basil's sister. She received us very nicely
and offered us citron Bitter orange: [(Ar.)turunj] Citrus fruit mostly found in hot tropical countries. The scientific name Citrus Medica Risso, also known as the Seville Orange. jam followed by coffee and sherbet. We stayed for one hour and then went to visit
the wife of Monsieur Salim, the municipality physician. And again, welcoming us graciously they showed us
to the guest area and offered us several kinds of jam and sweets
followed by coffee. Then she brought in two dishes of sugared and plain nuts that she divided and placed
in our pockets, as is the custom. Truthfully we found that only the notables of Dayr
are urbane and receive guests with a cordial welcome. We left at 11:00 Western time and I
went with Razouk Dinha to tour the markets and other places. I went to all
the streets and also went to the palace Palace: [(Tr.) saray] Ganj Yousif Pasha built this palace during his governorship over Damascus (1807-1810). where I saw all the rooms.

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I was astonished to see that Dayr is built like this. I returned
one hour later. Several women of Dayr came to visit us after breakfast, as did the wife of Sa'id Effendi,
Archbishop Ignatius's brother, with some of her relatives. The dress of some of Dayr's women is quite
hideous. They put a thing like a golden bowl made over their heads with pieces of cloth the size
of a hand covered with pearls which dangle over their ears. Most of them also wear a white veil.
There are no more than 70 or 80 Christian households here. In the afternoon, the people of the municipality and the military officials wanted
Colonel Mockler to show them his bicycle. He ordered
Tom Dexter to ride it in the street. People came and gathered around to such an extent that
no room was left for the bicycle to go. Then seeing the bicycle, they were all utterly astonished and amazed,
having heard of it only few days before our arrival here, and all were shouting,
"The iron horse, the iron horse!" At 3:00 in the afternoon I went to Razouk's place and while talking to Doctor Salim
I learned that Parson Yaqoub has an organ at the church. I was so very pleased
and I wanted to play, remembering my own organ and my days in Baghdad. So we left
Razouk at 5:00 and went, Doctor Salim and I, to Parson Yaqoub's place. He received us
very warmly and I found the organ. I played the tunes I knew and, at that moment,
I remembered Baghdad and the times when I used to sit in our big room and play my organ.
I left the Parson's at sunset and returned to the tents. After dinner and sunset at 8:30
Doctor Salim and his wife came to spend the evening with us, leaving three hours
later.

THIS MORNING is like yesterday's and so was the night. There are lots of flies here and our tent is filled with thousands of them. At 7:30,
we made a visit to the family of Sa'id Effendi, Archbishop Ignatius' brother.
They honored us as the others had done. Returning afterwards I went with my mother to visit

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Parson Yaqoub and see the Syriac Church. On our way we met Touza Jarjous
and she went with us to visit the Parson. We found the church nice and small but not
decorated like the Armenian Church. When we returned, we understood that Colonel Mockler
decided to travel today. So we prepared our baggage for traveling to Damascus. We hired three
camels to carry water for the Consul and for us because no fresh water is available on the road to Damascus.
Then all the people we met here came to bid us goodbye and they were very sad at our parting.
They showed us the true meaning of friendship and wished us the very best journey.
At 2:00 in the afternoon we packed the tents and our things. Then we strapped the trunks shut.
The mules came an hour later and as we loaded them I felt as though
I were on my way out of Baghdad. At 3:30 the caravan was prepared to move. I draped my
kaffiyah over my head, left the orchard, and said goodbye to everyone I know.
The Mutasarrif Mutasarrif: (Ar.) Turkish administrative officer in Arab countries. of this place sent twelve fully armed zaptiye to escort
Colonel Mockler.

---

I mounted the horse and the caravan went ahead with all the travelers,
the Zhair family, and the Director of Palmyra. When I neared the end of town
heading toward the barren desert al-A'qfir: Probably an old name for the Syrian desert derived from the Arabic word qaf'r, meaning 'wilderness'. We do not know whether this is a description or the name of the desert. It either means "barren" or "barren desert". where we will surely spend some 12 to 15 days.
Because this is the last moment I will be on the banks of the dear Euphrates, and
especially as I will be gone for some time, I wanted very much to drink its water
one last time. So I went to a house and asked them for some water. I drank a little,
turned towards the Euphrates, and said, "I commend you to God's protection, O

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Euphrates. When will we meet again, will it be soon or later?"
Since both Razouk Dinha and Tony Ossany had accompanied us, I bade them goodbye outside
the town. We marched on, distancing ourselves little by little until Dayr was out of sight.
We decided to travel three hours today and go to a place
called al-Malhah al-Malhah: To be completed. . Finally we arrived at 6:00, just before sunset. We unpacked the tents
and set up camp in a barren desert. A spring with flowing water is next to us on the right but
it is fouled by the animals coming to drink.
Today we were up at 4:00 in the morning because Colonel Mockler said yesterday that we would have
to march in the early hours. But saying this is useless, because he likes to sleep in and does not wake up
until sunrise. Finally at 6:15 we moved out of al-Malhah and headed toward a dry and barren
land without a single green plant. We marched steadily with
nothing to be seen but earth and sky. It is true what they say that "There is no land but the land of Damascus."
Because if one travels without fresh water one will undoubtedly perish. At last
at 2:15 in the afternoon we came to the military post of al-Qebaqeb al-Qebaqeb: Musil mentioned that 'Kebakeb' was one of the military stations on the road between Tudmor and al-Rahaba. [Palmyrena, 252] , a small fort built in
the middle of the desert with a well nearby that is six fathoms deep. But what water!
First all the animals such as sheep, camels, and mules drink from it. Secondly it
has a bitter and foul taste that is barely tolerable. So we camped opposite the fort.
We greatly miss the sight of the Euphrates and the taste of its fresh water. Dismounting and settling in, we wanted
to open one of the waterskins we brought on the camels but we found that the sheepskin was newly tanned
and the water inside had become green and is wasted. Truthfully we very much regretted this incident and we are also
afraid that the amount of water may not be sufficient for us because tomorrow's station Station: [konag (Tr.)] is quite distant
according to some, nearly 18 hours away. We are obliged to stay here until noon tomorrow and then we will travel in stages.
The wind changed and clouds came.

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A pleasant but cloudy morning. We woke at 6:15 and awaited
our departure. After tea I used spare moments
to write several letters to our family and friends in Baghdad which I would send at the first
opportunity. Finally we woolgathered until 11:00, and then we
ate breakfast hastily, and started to tie on the loads. At 12:00 noon we picked up
and rode. We marched steadily for about two hours under a scorching sun but afterwards it grew cloudy
with a westerly wind and became cool and chilly. After marching for four hours over
gravelly ground in a dry and barren desert without a single bird to be seen, but always
with distant hills to our right, the caravan in front halted and they said that
signs of raiders were seen at a distance coming in our direction to plunder us. All the soldiers, the zaptiye,
and the travelers, some 25 persons gathered and we sent out one armed man to gather information about those coming
toward us. We arranged the entire caravan and the mule litters in a tight group and continued to march.
Half an hour later the messenger returned and told us that nearly 50 bedouins Bedouin: Derived from badawi (Ar.), also spelled Bedouin, is a generic name for a desert-dweller, and a term generally applied to Arab nomadic pastoralist groups. The Bedouins constitute only a small part of the total population of the Middle East but inhabit or utilize a large part of the land area throughout most of the desert belt. Most of them are pastoralists who migrate into the desert during the rainy winter season and move back toward the cultivated land in the dry summer months. Following World War I the Bedouin tribes had to submit to the control of the governments of the countries in control of their pasture lands. Many of them became sedentary as a result of political and economic developments, especially after the second World War. Among the Arabic-speaking tribes, the head of the family, as well as of each successively larger social unit making up the tribal structure, is called sheikh; the sheikh is assisted by an informal tribal council of male elders. were fleeing,
thinking that we, being the larger group, were raiders coming in pursuit of them. Thus we put our trust in God and rode on
until the sun had set and darkness spread. At 7:00 we passed Muhayfir Muhayfir: A military station on the road between Qebaqeb and Riqa. which consists of a site
where a well was dug without reaching water. The government of the Ottomans spent 400 pounds to this end.
As no water was found, it was abandoned. We unloaded the baggage at 8:15. It was intensely dark.
Then we pitched our tent temporarily and after a hasty meal went to sleep
fully dressed because we will rise early tomorrow.
A cold and a damp twilight. We awoke at 3:30 after midnight
to get ready to march. It was an unfortunate night, with dark clouds and rain for about an hour at midnight.
The desert became cold and the air was damp. We readied ourselves to march
and then at 5:00 we mounted and left our camp traveling to al-Safna al-Safnah: Also spelled al-Sahne, another stopping point on the road to Riqa. where water is potable.

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Our march was very nice and pleasant with a spring breeze that always cheers the heart. We journeyed for a long time
through deserts like those we crossed yesterday. Then the weather cleared
and the wind changed to the west. Because we brought camels with us to carry the water, I wanted to ride
one. So I immediately made one camel kneel down and mounted its back. Tom Dexter did likewise, and then
we went out amid the caravan with everybody laughing at us. I rode for about two hours and afterwards Mrs. Mockler,
Mr. Mockler, and papa all rode it, each in turn. I found its gait pleasant
but jerks the rider back when it gets to its feet. We continued to march. Sometimes I rode and at other times I went on foot
until exactly 12:00 noon when we came to a small village called
Sukhna which consists of no more than a few houses built of mud, resembling those at al-Kerrada al-Kerrada: Part of the city of Baghdad to the South and on the East bank of the Tigris River (also called Karrada Sharqiya, or Eastern Kerrada). During Ottoman rule until the British occupation in 1917, this area was a village made up of farmlands with mud houses and separated from Baghdad province by many expansive orchards with no buildings except a few sarays owned by a handful of wealthy individuals. The farmers and other inhabitants of the village used to draw water from the River Tigris as was necessary to irrigate their farms and plantations, using a primitive hoisting device called kerd, hence the name: al-Kerrada'. , with a nearby dwelling
for the soldiers who protect the inhabitants. Before arriving here we passed mountains on our right,
high and pleasant to view and white as if gypsum were flowing down from them.
Here we also found, near to the village, small rain-fed fields. We set up camp opposite three
orchards with pomegranate and willow trees but they were quite bare. We saw many springs
around us too, some big and others small, but all are sulphur springs with drinkable water though some are
warm and others are hot. The weather became hot with a strong sun.
A cold morning with a high, damp wind. We got up at 4:00 and changed our clothes.
The night was good and not very cold but since midnight the wind blew hard.
Though Colonel Mockler had said that today we would march at sunrise we moved out much
later, and right at 6:00 we left al-Sukhna heading towards the next stopping place. So we rode with the caravan
and marched steadily, sometimes over even and flat lands and at other times through deserts with bad footing,
full of stones and extremely difficult to walk on, with hills and mountains surrounding us.
There is nothing worth mentioning along our way except for arid land like before.
Then at 10:00 we came across a few Arabs on their way to al-Sukhna. It became hotter and the sun

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burned harshly. However we marched steadily on although troubled by the torments of this road
which is truly tiring and exasperating. At 1:30 in the afternoon
the station of Riqa' Riqa': In 1908, Musil also stopped here, mentioning that it was another military station, under the protection of the Qumsha clan of the 'Sba'a tribe'. [Palmyrena, 84-85] , our stopping place, came into view in the distance. In the area we saw nearly 100 large tents made of felt
belonging to the Shammar Shammar: A Bedouin tribe mainly in Saudi Arabia, central, and western Iraq. It is the second largest Bedouin tribe of the Arabian Peninsula. They are part of the Ta'ee tribe, originally from Yemen. For centuries, they lived a sedentary lifestyle until they became camel herders and horse breeders in Northern Najd and expanded north into Iraq during the seventeenth century. By 1908, Musil notes that the station was controlled by the Kumsha clan from the Sba'a tribal confederation. [See above note; Musil, 84-85] Arabs. Their camels, numerous as worms, are teeming in these dry lands
where only gazelles, which never get thirsty, can live. These Arabs came here this morning
and they intend to go on to other lands. Their Sheikh is Fahad ibn Adghaym ibn Haddal Fahad bin Adghaym bin Haddal: Sheikh of the Shammar tribe. To be completed
whose home is beyond Palmyra, some 12 hours away from here. Approaching
the Arabs we passed among them looking for somewhere to stop the caravan and dismount. We found
a nice place, high on a hilltop overlooking all the lands below, with the zaptiye station next to us.
There are many water springs here, far better than those at al-Sukhna
where the water is nauseating like the water of the wells in Baghdad houses which
I could never drink without torment. Thus we found the water better here, cleaner and more
palatable. However it does not resemble the fine water of the Euphrates whose equal, I think,
is found nowhere else in all the world and its freshness is unforgettable. What a pity it is to be far from the Euphrates.
Here I saw a water spring flowing wondrously beneath the rocks
in a cave deep inside a high mountain. Its water is extremely clear but with a taste of sulfurous gas.
A very beautiful sight. At the Arabs' camp I saw the howdaj Howdaj: (Ar.) A camel litter usually used by women on long journeys. ,
which is a long seat placed on the camel's back and ridden in by their women.
One hour before sunset I wanted to tour the area and the Arabs' camp. At first
I went down to watch the harvesters reaping excellent barley. Then I saw a spring of clear water
flowing from the depths of the mountain, an extremely beautiful sight. We went to observe the Arabs.
Climbing up a mountain I caught sight of the mountain of Palmyra Palmyra: [(Ar.) Tadmor, Tadmur] An important city in the ancient times, located in the Syrian desert, 145 km/90 miles east of Hims. It was known as the bride of the desert. The name 'Palmyra', an original Greek translation for the Aramaic name Tadmor, means 'palm tree'. From the first until the 12th century C.E., Palmyra flourished as a caravan station and the city grew steadily in importance because of its location on the Silk Road. It is most famous for Queen Zenobia, who was captured, imprisoned, and executed by the Roman Emperor Aurelian in 272 after a brief attempt at independence which threatened to deprive the empire of lucrative trade tariffs. Palmyra became a tourist destination in the 18th century after British travelers included the ruins in a popular travel diary and even more so because of the Iraqi Petroleum Company's oil pipeline that ran through the city between Kirkuk and Tripoli, Lebanon in the 20th century. [Encyclopedia of Islam, "Tadmor"] where we will go
tomorrow. I returned at sunset and the weather became cold and damp. We decided to set off
in the morning and travel to the famous city of Palmyra.

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A cold morning with a west wind blowing. The night was pleasant and damp. We were up at 4:00,
packed the tents at 5:30, and rode toward Palmyra. We marched steadily, at first traveling
for about one hour between hills and mountains and then on regular, level land where the desert was hard
and dry. At 7:00 the town of Palmyra came into view in the distance. First we caught sight
of glittering rock pillars whose story will come later. On the way
we passed many Arabs from the Aniza Aniza: ['Iniza] Bedouin tribe that lives in northern Saudi Arabia, western Iraq and the Syrian steppe. The Royal families of Saudi Arabia, Kuwait and Bahrain are traced to this tribe. The Sheikh General lives in Western Iraq. This is one of the largest Arab Bedouin tribes with clans in Saudi Arabia, Kuwait. Gulf countries, Iraq, Jordan, Palestine, Turkey and Egypt. . They are going with their cattle to Riqa' to make offerings and celebrate the
Muslim Feast of Sacrifices The Islamic Feast of Sacrifices: Eid al-Adha (Ar.) falls on the tenth day of the Islamic month of Dhul Hijjah. Eid al-Adha is celebrated by Muslims in commemoration of the Prophet Ibrahim's (Abraham's) willingness to sacrifice his son Ismael for God. with their Sheikh. We marched on steadily
always in view of Palmyra which took only until 11:30 Western time. We then reached
these amazingly ancient and wondrous sites. The first thing we saw were
the oddly shaped pillars and we passed between them looking for a place to halt and dismount. In the end we camped
near a big arch with two smaller arches at the sides and about 20 pillars standing in a row
to the left of the arch's entryway. Some say the construction of these ancient temples is
as much as 3600 years old, while others say it is much older. The site of the temples and other structures
is as large as Baghdad and is bound on the right by very high mountains,
higher than all others we have seen. Four columns, about 30 or 40 cubits in height,
each made of one block of fine porphyry, stand in front of the big arch. It boggles the mind how
they could have cut this stone and made it stand upright. It is a thing impossible for anyone to explain without seeing it.
In the afternoon I left to go around and look at one part of the ruins. First I went
to the structures nearest us and came upon a temple that is rather small but amazingly built.
The size of every dressed block of stone used in its construction is no less than five cubits long and two cubits wide
and each stone is placed one on top of the other. Four big columns with small protruding ledges attached stand
at the entrance of this place. On one of the ledges I was able to see an inscription
in Greek and very difficult to read, like

Page 039

these letters that I copied literally from the stone: ΜΑΛΗΤΟΠΔΕΧΤ.
A different inscription that Colonel Mockler said to be Palmyrene script
is engraved at the right edge of the ledge and written like this: .
Then we left and went to another place. We came to a big gate at least 30 or 40
cubits long and 20 or 25 wide and built like this: , that is to say with only three blocks of marble stone.
From top to bottom it is decorated and carved entirely in the patterns of the ancients, a thing
that one may not notice unless one sees it himself. Several columns like this:
stand to the sides of this wondrous gate, with blocks of stone set on top, each no less than
seven or ten cubits long and only a single stone block is laid between every two columns.
The columns' capitals are all carved in relief with flowers and other patterns, but these carvings will weather and be damaged
with time. There are ever so many walls in this site, ruined and fallen to the ground with the stones covering the whole area.
Also many columns had fallen and were left on the ground because no one could lift them due to their size.
Speaking of the columns, most are 25 to 30 cubits high with shafts made of three blocks of stone
placed one on top of the other and the circumference of each column, each no less than 7 or 8 cubits, can barely be encircled by four men.
Here the ground is sandy littered with large and small rocks, ruined walls, and columns that have fallen to the ground.
Opposite the ruins of Palmyra and to the right, lies a very high hill or
mountain with a big and frightening castle Castle: Situated on a mountaintop to the West of Palmyra, the Arab fort known as Palmyra Castle (Qalat Tadmor, or Qalat ibn Ma'an) was originally built during the Ayubid era (12-13th century) and then reconstructed and extended by the Lebanese Emir Fakhr Al-Din ibn Ma'ani in the 17th century to prevent Ottoman encroachment. His plans were unsuccessful and he was captured and executed by the Ottomans in 1635. The castle was surrounded by a moat and only accessible by drawbridge. built on top, so tall that it seems to tower into the sky.
We decided to climb it tomorrow and see what we might find up there. We also agreed to stay
here for two or three days in order to see everything. We returned at sunset and as I see it
we have not yet finished with one percent. The wind blew stronger here with heavy rain falling until
10:00.
A nice and a cold morning. We were up at 6:30 and we decided that after drinking
tea, we would tour the rest of the ruins. Colonel Mockler is distracted
with taking photographs and he is constantly going from one place to another taking pictures.

---

Page 040

At 7:30 we mounted the animals to tour these ancient buildings since
it is not possible to tour them on foot. One would soon be exhausted. First we headed toward
another small temple not as nice as the others but built with massive and imposing blocks of stone. Afterward
we rode toward the high mountain with the huge castle on top. Coming to the foot of the mountain we began to climb it
step by step amid small rocks, gravel, stones, and the like, on which
one could slip. Up the mountain we went, traversing from right to left and left to right.
15 minutes later we reached to the top. Truly I have never climbed up such a high and difficult mountain
and may it be known that I was on foot and not riding. Reaching the mountaintop
we saw the castle built on its peak with a kind of moat around it, deep, broad
and quite intimidating. I walked around the castle but I did not find an entrance. Perhaps
the ancients used to lower a drawbridge from the castle door to the mountain in order to enter or exit.
In case an enemy came they would remove the bridge and the castle would remain secure and inaccessible.
It also appeared that the castle had two doors, one at the head of the passageway and another,
taller than the first, twenty cubits behind it. A well is in the ditch and so impossible for one
to reach in order to look inside. It is quite an amazing thing. How were they able to dig this well
and raise water out of it from such a depth? The mountain is no less than 400 meters high to the moat
encircling the castle. And a final wonder is how they could have laid each stone on the castle
at such a height (no less than 200 meters). In addition the entire castle is built with large blocks of stone
although they are smaller than those on the columns. Truly this castle and the well leave one quite dumbfounded,
an extremely wondrous thing that one could not believe without seeing it with his own eyes. The present
Sheikh of Palmyra Sheikh of Palmyra, Mohammed bin Abdullah. , Mohammed bin Abdullah, who is no more than 32 years old, said that this castle
was built by order of Ma'ana bin Za'ida after the destruction of Palmyra and the imprisonment of Zenobia Zenobia: To be completed. , the Sultana
of these places. After being sufficiently astonished we descended the mountain and headed toward other places.

Page 041

So we continued to trek onward, always among boulders, until we approached a long, large chamber resembling
a tower. From a distance it appeared insignificant. Strangely enough, upon entering the chamber through the east door,
we saw something of such wonderful artifice and stone construction that one would be stunned.
Undoubtedly this chamber must have been the burial place of the ancients. It is perhaps 60 or 70 cubits in length
and equally as tall. To the north and south the chamber is partitioned into 12 compartments, resembling places for graves
or biers with a spiral stairway to the left in order to place them one on top of the other when the lower compartments
are full. A marble slab is above the door and engraved with inscriptions in both Greek
and Palmyrene. Using binoculars Binoculars: (Pr.) Derbin is durbin (with و and ي) which is a Persian compound (dur meaning 'far' and bin meaning 'to see') used in Ottoman Turkish for 'binoculars'. This word is still commonly used in Iraq. because of their height, I have copied them in my notebook.
The outer construction of the chamber is nothing to make one suppose that such decoration will be found within.
Inside and facing the door human figures are carved, each with an extremely curious
script underneath. The ceiling is frescoed, engraved in color, and solidly constructed.
Inside are four stories: one underground, one at ground level, a third above it, and a fourth only used as a
mezzanine. This is a guess as to how it was. I could see a number
of visitors' names here and, by chance, in a corner on the left near to the door, written
with a light pencil and very difficult to read, the name Napoleon Bonaparte
written like this: Napoleon Bonaparte 1792. This date, that is 1792, is quite
ancient and deserving of amazement. How in all this time, 105 years, did it neither wear off
nor did the pencil writing fade? I also noticed the names of some people
we know: Faust Lorion and Coloman who was in Baghdad, Joseph Khoury
was engaged to Josephine the daughter of Aunt Medula, and so on and so forth. I too
wrote my name in many places. This inscription is found inside facing the door,
done by a Frenchman who came two years ago to study the ruins of Palmyra
and stayed for four months. He engraved this inscription on a stone in French:

Page 042

"Ici en 1895 la mission Bretone accompagnée

02

.

de Vizzavir Mourain et Bei[...]ard, passé le

03

.

printemps l'été emmurer à étudier les ruines de

04

.

Palmyre."
and the names, F. Kinloche 1842, J.Ricot
Juillet-1895 Inspecteur de la dette publique,
and many others that I failed to copy in my notebook. When we left this place
I noticed that it was already 10:30. So I mounted the horse and rode back to the tents because
the weather had become extremely hot with a burning sun. On my way back I passed
a sulphur spring. At the upper end there was something like a hammam for washing and a number of women were bathing
inside. Its water is very clear and hot but not drinkable. The water of Palmyra is not
so good and it has a salty taste like well water. The heat became worse in the afternoon
with a strong simoom blowing. Because all the land here is sandy, the weather always turns
hot. I wished to bathe in the spring that is only a short distance from our place.
So I took my clothes and went. I found the water moderately hot and the bathing
place was warm and steamy. At sunset the wind blew much harder and it continued
like this until nightfall.
A cold morning with a high wind blowing all night long.
The night was also cold like yesterday. We decided to
leave Palmyra today and continue our journey to Damascus. We will depart in the afternoon.
However, since we have not yet seen the other parts of Palmyra, with its huge temples
made with massive blocks of stone larger than the others, after tea at 7:30
we went toward the city and its environs to see these buildings. We arrived next to a great wall.
Its height towers to no more than 100 cubits and its foundation is 20 cubits in width.

Page 043

It is built entirely with stones that are much larger than any we had seen before. Next to the wall
columns larger than the others are erected and as tall as the wall. Here, amid the ruins,
the Arabs made themselves mud-wattle houses where they live. Finally we went towards a large gate
that must probably have been the city gate. What a sight. A person standing beneath it seems to be
the size of a sparrow. It is built like this: . Its height from the ground to the top is possibly 70 or 80 cubits
and its width from one side to the other is no less than twenty cubits. It is entirely engraved and decorated
with impressive designs. How could a person be capable of carving such things on a single block of stone?
And the thing that amazed me more than anything else is the single stone, perhaps 25 or 30 cubits long, laid over
the top of the gate, extending from one column to the other. How could they have lifted this stone to place it
on top and so high? The construction of the walls is entirely of extremely massive stones.
I stepped off one of them on foot and found it 35 paces long and 11 wide. Then we went into
the heart of a temple, which they have now turned into a mosque for prayers, I mean only half of it. I found it magnificent.
It is built like a church. At its center there is a large inner temple roofed over with one single square marble stone
measuring no less than 30 steps on a side and completely engraved and carved. An indescribable thing.
Built in this way: this place was probably used for praying. Here one part
of the temple is roofed over with rock and has a stairway leading upwards. I climbed up and saw something
that boggled my mind. The stones with which this temple was roofed were, each one, no less than 20 cubits
in length and three in width. We continued wandering around these sites, regretting such a hasty
departure because one can never get enough of the view of Palmyra and exploring its ruins. Then we returned after
a thorough look around to our tents. The marketplaces are amid the ruins and one also finds here
about 1000 houses. Among the people of the town all the women ruin their looks with tattoos which
encircle their faces and on their chests. In Palmyra one also finds 10 or 12 orchards, most of them
cultivating olive trees and to a lesser extent apricot and apple trees. There are

Page 044

only about 20 or 30 date palms. All the plantings are irrigated from the existing
springs without which no one would have settled in these parts.
Finally at 3:30 in the afternoon we prepared to set out. We mounted and left Palmyra heading
toward Damascus. After traveling three hours, at 6:30, we stopped because Colonel
Mockler did not wish to go any farther. Here the wind blew very hard and the weather
became extremely cold. This was the first time in our journey that we found it so cold. We pitched the tent
temporarily because we will be up tomorrow morning and finish today's journey stage. Today half an hour after
leaving Palmyra four zaptiye came to meet us. They were sent from al-Qaryatayn al-Qaryatayn: According to Musil, 'al-Zerjitejn', was a large Christian and Muslim settlement protected by the Rwala tribe until 1903. The settlement lay on the western slope of the Kehle mountain and the al-Nusrani ridge, with ample pastureland and agriculture irrigated by the Umm al-Qalajid spring. [Palmyrene, 98-101] , which lies
20 hours from here in search of Colonel Mockler. The Consul in Damascus The Consul in Damascus: The diarist meant the British Consul at Damascus.
sent instructions to the Governor of al-Qaryatayn The Governor of al-Qaryatayn: In 1908, this was Ahmad bin Fajjaz Agha. [Palmyrene, 101] that he should tell the zaptiye to go and welcome Colonel Mockler.
So they have come here inquiring after us. From Palmyra to here there were never ending towering mountains
on the right and left, higher than all the others we have passed. At sunset
the cold worsened but the wind dropped somewhat and I slept in the mule litter since there was
no use unloading the baggage.
A bitterly cold morning, as cold as could ever be, like the coldest days of winter,
with a strong wind blowing out of the west. We were up at 5:30, tied on the baggage, and then set out
from our stopping place heading for the zaptiye post of al-Baydha al-Bayda: A military station on the road between Tadmor and al-Qaryatayn. . We marched steadily among even, flat lands without
any rise or fall of the ground, but the cold weather that always killed us. I had even put on thick
woolen cloaks over my coat and riding outfit, but I was still dying from the cold. I was thinking that
in Baghdad now they must be suffering from the heat and sleeping on the rooftops.
At 8:15 we came to the zaptiye post of al-Baydha and we dismounted briefly to breakfast and rest but without the tents.
Then in the afternoon we will resume our ride because our stopping place is very far and we will likely have to march all night.
al-Baydha is a barren desert with nothing around but a post that is the zaptiye's fort.

Page 045

No water is available here except for the water of a very deep well that is not potable except for the animals. At
1:15 in the afternoon we tied the baggage on again and prepared the caravan to travel
until we are unable to continue because our journey stage is very long. Thus we rode on under a burning sun and
severe heat crossing barren deserts and dry lands until 7:00,
that is to say, at sunset. Colonel Mockler wanted to stop here and sleep for a few hours.
Afterwards we would wake at midnight and continue this stage of the journey. So we halted the caravan temporarily and pitched the tents
but we did not unload the baggage. Here the weather was somewhat better
than yesterday evening and not as bitterly cold. However the wind was always blowing
and it was cloudy with a moon that seemed 14 days old. Afterwards we hurriedly ate everything to be found whether hot
or cold and went to sleep at 9:00. This place is called al-Iqsayr al-Iqsayr: A small village slightly south of al-Baydhah. .
We woke up early, that is, at 12:00 midnight and then having
done everything in a hurry, we loaded the baggage onto the animals and set off at 1:15
to finish our journey. The morning was very cold and dry with a light westerly wind blowing. It was a spring night.
Truthfully we are growing very weary of our travels. We have had no rest from yesterday morning until now.
Moreover my health is much changed. I have a toothache that is very painful and it
became worse with the cold. We continued to march through the night sometimes going among tiny rocks and at other times
over flat barren land until the town of al-Qaryatayn came into view some three hours away.
Because of the low elevation it would vanish and then come into view again. At 9:30 we arrived and entered the town.
At its outskirts there are many nice orchards, most of them planted with grapevines, pomegranate trees,
and castor oil plants. Afterwards we came to lanes resembling the lanes of Basrah. We heard that
the Sheikh of al-Qaryatayn, named Fayadh, had invited Colonel Mockler to stay with him at his house.
Finally, approaching his house, Colonel Mockler asked us to stay with him. We entered
through the door. The house looked lovely, built with stone and white plaster.
We were ushered into the vestibule and we drank the sherbet they offered us. I found his house quite pleasant

Page 046

and well built. In such a small town one does not expect to find a house of this sort, with Vienna chairs Vienna seats: Seats manufactured by the Thonet Brothers Company, established in Vienna-Austria in 1849, for the manufacture of bentwood furniture. They received a patent in 1856 for creating furniture by bending steamed wood. Their designs were considered forerunners of the 'Art Nouveau' movement. ,
benches, and beds Beds: [charpaye (Pr.)] A form of charpa [char meaning 'four', and pa meaning 'foot'] which means, among other things, "bedstead". that have mosquito netting, and a perfectly appointed salon.
It also has 6 fine rooms and we settled into one of them. At noon they prepared a breakfast for us
which we ate with Colonel Mockler. The town is not unpleasant.
It has about 100 Christian houses. Their Syriac priest is coming to see us today to invite
us to stay with him. Everything is available here, from food to drink, but as today
is the continuation of the Muslims' feast all the shops are closed. After breakfast I napped for about two and a half hours
as I was desperate for a rest. God willing, little more is left for us
and we will be in Damascus the day after tomorrow. Thus we will be done with this accursed whirlwind
that lacks the least comfort and confounds our lives. In the afternoon we heard that Colonel
Mockler intends to take a different road to Damascus and not the common road which will prolong
the journey by one or two days altogether. In order to travel less each day. Truthfully we were quite paralyzed by
these upheavals and do not know when we will be done with this whirl. The Zhair family decided
to travel early tomorrow by the road that goes directly to Damascus doubtless arriving
the next day. In the afternoon we were pleased to visit the Syriac priest Ibrahim. We found his son
at the house. He is a married man with three children. Here all the people of the town wear the 'akkal
and the kaffiyah, even the Christians and the priest's son too, who looks like a Muslim. So we accompanied him to their home and walked
through lanes that resemble the pathways of the buffalo in Baghdad. At last we arrived at the priest's house
which looks like a stable. A room is in it resembling a drawing room furnished with seats and some pillows.
Pistols Pistols: [warawer (Ar.)] In the Arabic diary, plural of warwar, a colloquial word that means 'a revolver'. and weapons hang on the walls with other quite laughable things. The priest, himself an old man,
is very poor and he looks like an Arab with both hands covered in tattoos. Finally when we rose to leave we asked him to show us his church. He took us
and we walked together from one house to the other until he came to a door like that of an old house.
Then he opened the church door and we entered. We found that it resembles the Chaldean school in
Baghdad. It is even the same size, with about six or seven pictures inside, some of which are torn, and a very crooked throne

Page 047

with four candles. But how strange. In all the church there was neither seat nor mat, nothing
whatsoever to sit on. When we asked the priest, he replied saying that those who wanted to hear mass would stand
and some would sit. However he is not to blame for this black poverty because the town is not even worth
seeing, though it has nice orchards. I found lots of grapevines here, filling all the
orchard fields, and poplar trees as well. After wandering the pitiful lanes we
went back to the best house to be found here. Qaryatayn
is small with about 2000 souls. At sunset today my molar hurt me badly
and I suffered intensely.
A spring morning and not very cold. This was the first night that we slept in a room built of stone.
From Baghdad to here we have always slept in tents.
We got up at 5:00 and waited for the Colonel's order to march. At last we tied on the baggage at 6:00,
left Sheikh Fayadh's house, and left the village heading
north, while the Zhair family took the direct route and went on to Damascus. We continued to
march among hills and mountains, over rough and stony terrain. We came
across many Arabs from the 'Aniza tribe or Bedouins traveling from one place to another looking for
pasture land. They are abundant as worms in these places. Sheikh Fayadh too
rode with us to Damascus The Government of Damascus: The Ottoman authorities in Damascus . Yesterday he wrote a letter to the government of Damascus
informing them of Colonel Mockler's arrival and departure. We too took the opportunity and sent a letter with the messenger
to our dear friend Archbishop Basil in Damascus, requesting him, if possible, to find a house for us near his
where we might stay, as it would be better than going to a hotel. We continued to march on an unpleasant
road. The mountains to our left were growing much higher and at a distance ahead of us we even caught sight of a
mountaintop covered with snow. This is the Lebanon Mountain Range.
At 10:15 we arrived at Maheen Maheen: According to Musil, the village 'Mhin' was to the northwest of al-Qaryatayn on the road to al-Qastal. , a very small village. At the end of the village we met
Colonel Mockler and his escort who had decided to take breakfast before moving on.

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So we continued to march not knowing where we were going. We took the road leading to Hajra Hajra: A small village between Maheen and al-Qastal. , another
small village like Maheen. Then half an hour later one of the zaptiye who had accompanied us caught
up with us and said that we should take the north road to go to Hafayyir Hafayyir: A small village between Maheen and al-Qastal. and then
to Hajra. So we returned once more. Having lost half an hour here we finally continued to march until
2:10, when we arrived at Hafayyir. We passed many orchards like those at Qaryatayn,
full of grapevines more than anything else. We then set up camp near a small river that flows
from a far-off spring, finding ourselves surrounded by high mountains. In the afternoon
I want to go and see the streets and the church since all the people
of this village are Jacobite Christians Jacobite Christians: In the 19th Century the Syrian Orthodox Church was quite marginal in the midst of a Muslim majority. However, they had strong ties to European philosophies and institutions. European ideas were translated by the Jacobites, putting even more pressure on the already decaying Ottoman Institutions. with few Syriacs and no Muslims or Jews to be found.
A priest named Salman oversees them. Hafayyir has only 1,000 inhabitants.
Its alleys are like those of al-Qaryatayn but their women dress differently. From Palmyra to here
the clothing changes entirely. They are dressed much like the Telkeyifi Telkeyif: A village in Nineveh province (capital Mossul) of northern Iraq, it is surrounded by farming lands where residents grow wheat and vegetables and maintain livestock. Several Telkeipian families have emigrated to the United States. They are also well known for their traditional dress. and all the men wear the 'akkal.
A cold morning with a strong wind. At night we were hit by the powerful blast
of an easterly wind so strong that it pulled up the pegs of our tent and it collapsed on us.
The wind continued for two hours. This happened because we are between mountains
and the wind has no other way to go. Finally we got up at 5:00 and prepared ourselves to travel to the next station.
After we tied on the baggage we rode west at 6:00. So on we marched
amid hills and lands, over rough terrain full of stones and gravel. An hour
and a half later we passed a very small, deserted village without one bird in it. This is Hajra. Its inhabitants,
which number no more than 300 or 400 souls, had fled fearing the Bedouin. We continued to
march until at 9:15 we came to a village called Dayr Setam. It is larger than Hafayyir with many orchards planted with nut and
almond trees as well as grapevines. Cutting through the village from one end to the other on horseback, I truthfully
very much liked its appearance with the springs of pure water, limpid as egg-whites "As clear as albumen": A local expression. and sweet as sugar,

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flowing through its alleys with the poplar trees all green and casting a pleasant shade. Half an hour later
we left Dayr Setam Dayr Setaam: A village just north of Nabk, which Musil recorded as Dayr 'Attiyye in 1912. [Palmyrene, 223] . Here too all its inhabitants are Jacobite and Syriac Christians.
The town of al-Nabk al-Nabk: [Nebk] A large village on the road to Damascus. Nabk was on the nothern edge of the She'eb al-Loz mountain range and was reportedly surrounded by orchards and a large spring. [Palmyrena, 223] , to which we intend to travel, became visible from here with its orchards extending out to an hour's distance. Holding
to our path, at 12:30 we came to the orchards of al-Nabk. Truly the prospect of it
from afar is pleasant as though it were some European construct. Afterwards we set up camp 15 minutes from the village near a stream of spring water.
The taste of the water here is quite fresh and sweet and much better than Baghdad's river water.
In al-Nabk a quarter of the inhabitants are Jacobite and Syriac Christians and
there are two Syriac priests in this place. One of them is the brother of Father Ibrahim, the priest at al-Qaryatayn. His name is
Parson Butros. He is a tall man with a gloomy face. The other is Father Hanna, the nephew of
Farida al-Nakasha in Baghdad. But what a priest!
He makes one die from laughter. He looks like a Telkeyifi and is extremely humble. They both came to visit us in the evening.
There is also an English Protestant priest named Mr. Stewart,
Irichman Mr. Stewart. He has been in al-Nabk for two years
and has opened a school where he teaches English. There is a location here for telegraphs
to Baghdad, Aleppo, and other places. We noticed that the middle part of the road
was leveled so that carriages coming from Damascus going to Aleppo and Baghdad could cross. We saw
three or four of them coming and going. Extremely high mountains surround us here.
At sunset we were hit by a high dusty wind that tormented us and the weather became cold.
An extremely cold morning, colder than all the previous mornings.
The night was severely cold too. We were up at 5:00 and prepared ourselves to march. At
6:00 we rode toward the last stopping place of our journey. We will reach Damascus tomorrow afternoon, God willing,
and we will be done with the road and journeys in the deserts. We marched
steadily between mountains but on the carriageway especially built to level the road.
At 8:15 we passed on our left a small village with about 500 or 600 souls

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and a few trees. It is called al-Qastal al-Qastal: A village one day's march south of al-Nabk and on the western edge of al-Qabbaas, part of the She'eb al-Loz mountain range. [Palmyrena, 224] . Here the mountains are much higher and more numerous.
The land is very different from Iraq. At last we reached
the village of Qatif Qutayyif: A village south of al-Qastal on the road to Damascus. at 1:45 in the afternoon after an extremely exhausting march. About 12
zaptiye came to meet us when we were one hour away. They were sent by the Wali of Damascus Wali of Damascus: Wali Husayn Nadhoom was the governor (wali) of Damascus in 1897. to greet Colonel Mockler. We approached the town and
entered an old khan which is about 300 years old but still solid. We pitched the tents in
the courtyard. A mineral bath is near our stopping place. I decided to bathe there in
the evening. I also wanted to tour the orchards so I took one of the khan's people with me and
wandered around. I found the orchards very nice and planted with all kinds of fruit trees: plum, fig,
apricot, grape, peach, almond, and nut, but with only one olive tree. I returned at sunset.
We inquired one more time about the bath near our place and they said that it is no more than ordinary water that is heated. So I
did not go to bathe there.
A pleasant morning with absolutely no cold and the weather was warm. Like yesterday,
we were up at 5:30 and we prepared to march to our last stopping place, which is Damascus. God be praised, we have finished
with all the troubles of the road. We moved out with the caravan at 6:00, always traveling on the carriageway
until we entered a large valley that took two hours to cross, called Boughaz Boughaaz: Boughaz is a Turkish word meaning 'straights' or 'throat' and most likely was the name of a valley. .
When we emerged from the Boughaz, Damascus and its extensive orchards came into view in the distance. What
a pleasant sight! We continued to march always in view of Damascus, which grew nearer and nearer. At 9:30 we entered
the first of its orchards four hours from the town.

THIS PLACE IS CALLED al-Qusayr al-Qusayr: A village with ample pastureland and an inn (khan) north of Damascus. , it is a lovely sight resembling a long covered walkway with green poplar trees
but mostly with large olive trees on both sides shading one from the sun.
There are several hamlets here and the grass is extremely verdant and better than anything
we have seen before. We continued to march for about two hours and then arrived at a shaded path

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they call Duma Duma: [Dooma, Dumar] A large town on the outskirts of Damascus noted for extensive orchards. . The people of the town, farmers and workers, are continuously bustling
about and carriages came and went every few minutes. Truthfully I loved
the entrance to Damascus very much because it is very joyful and cheers the heart. In the end we continued to travel until
1:30 in the afternoon when we caught sight of the first building in Damascus, the military hospital. But oh, what
a pleasant and joyful place! The Military Barracks Kishla: A Turkish word meaning 'military barracks' in Syria and 'hospital' in Egypt. building is constructed in the European style. This is the first time I have seen
such style and workmanship. We then arrived at the town gate called Touma Tooma: One of eight extant gates to the old city of Damascus, Thomas' Gate (Bab Tooma, or Bab Touma) is on the north-east corner of the old of the city of Damascus. and to a garden
called Dar al-Darb. The people of Damascus come here with their women, their daughters, and others to enjoy themselves and
to eat and drink. I liked the orchard very much. Afterwards they said that Colonel Mockler decided
to camp here. We dismounted and entered the orchard to rest. Afterward we would take a carriage and go into town
to find a place to stay. From here we sent news of our arrival to Archbishop Basil and continued to wait
in the garden which is full of flowers especially large, fresh roses of all kinds.
There are many benches to rest on in the garden so we took a bench and continued to await
the arrival of our caravan. In no time a messenger priest named Salman Tabouni came from his Grace
Archbishop Basil, together with the Archbishop's guard and carriage, requesting us to come to his home. We got into the carriage
and it carried us along the passages and the roads of Damascus. I was truly astonished to find the town
built and arranged as such. Fifteen minutes later we came to the door of the Patriarchate and entered a large, spacious house
with fountains and marble structures. Archbishop Basil,
whom we had not seen for seven years, came to greet us and he seemed truly pleased to see us. It was clear that his heart was full of happiness when we entered
the diwan of his house. First we asked if he
knew of a place where we could stay. He replied saying: "This is impossible! You are invited to stay at my house and the baggage
will be brought here." We vigorously protested but he refused. In the end we were obliged to stay there. Then he
took us upstairs and showed us a room already prepared for us. As he had not yet had breakfast we went downstairs
and ate with him. He did us a great honor and was very generous. Later, we were very pleased to learn that
he had a number of letters for us from Baghdad. We longed for news from there.

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He also gave us a telegram he received nine days earlier from our family reassuring us of their health. We opened
the letters from Baghdad and read them with tears in our eyes. They had received our letters from Falluja
and al-Ramadi, as well as the telegram from al-Ramadi. My heart was filled with joy for the sorrow they expressed. At our parting
I also received letters from Louisa, Artin, Jamil Abdul-Karim, Antoine Guilietti, and others. I was
extremely delighted to hear news from Baghdad. At once we prepared a telegram to Baghdad saying: "Arrived Tuesday noontime.
All in good health. Missing you. Staying at Mr. Basil's house." We dispatched it without delay to the telegraph office since
our family must, without doubt, be very worried about us and the telegram will make them happy. Later we went down to the Syriac church attached
to this Patriarchate. We found it perfect. It is a very fine church, adorned with wonderful images and abundant decorations.
We listened to the prayers of the Holy Devotion to Mary. A large number of people from Damascus, both men and women, were also attending and they all
welcomed us strangers. At sunset we returned to our place through the door that leads
to the house. Our room is very fine. Across from it the Roman Church Roman Church: To be completed. with its dome and bell are visible. They say
this church is nice. Without doubt we must go and see it. We dined at 8:00 and slept comfortably afterwards being done with
the hardships of traveling.
I was up in the morning at 6:00 and thanks be to God, not preparing to set out
with the caravan and therefore extremely relaxed. After dressing I sent for a barber who arrived and cut my hair.
I changed one more time into the clothes I call formal dress. I wrote a postcard
to my dear friend Antoine Hubert in Beirut informing him of my arrival here
and my desire to see him which would be on Monday or the day after. I then sent it with the Patriarchate guard to the
post office hoping it would be dispatched after sunset today by the railway.
It runs regularly, twice every day, to Beirut and takes eight to nine hours to arrive.
That is a lumbering pace but the roadbed is still not prepared for a swift run. Afterwards
at 9:30 I took a person from here, I befriended, and went to tour the streets and the shops
of Damascus. I took a carriage and rode in the direction of a street called al-Hamidiyya al-Hamidiyya: Famous market in Syria that still bears the same name. , built in the European style, with perfect shops.
I went to some photographers' shops to see if they have

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photographs of Palmyra and Damascus. I found that they were well prepared and have all kinds of such things. In the end
I bought myself a cane and returned to our place at 11:00. At 1:00 in the afternoon, after breaking our fast,
we went to visit the Roman Catholic Church. Archbishop Basil ordered his guard to escort us
every time we go out to the streets. They opened the church door for us and I found it
magnificent with decorations engraved in porphyry. I was astonished by such a fine church.
A wide mezzanine is above, as wide as 10 cubits, and it surrounds the entire church.
The church door is made entirely of bronze. I paced it and found that the church came to 80 steps in length and 44 steps in width. We finally left
in a hired carriage to tour around. So we rode around Damascus and passed hotels,
gardens. Near the end of town we saw the best hotel called
Hotel Basraoni Hotel Basraoni: To be completed. . It is perfect and a very pleasant sight. Later we went
to the Station de chemin de fer. It was time for its arrival from Beirut
so we waited to see it arrive at the station. At 4:00 we caught sight of it coming. This was the first time
in my life that I had seen it and I found it very lovely. We then returned to the Hamidiyya market
and went to a house in the Jewish quarter with a perfect salon. It is called the Sham'aya house Shama’aya's house: The historian Naoman al-Qasatli speaks of the Jews' palaces that were built between 1865 and 1872 in Damascus of which the house of Shamaya among many other houses saying that not less than 20 thousands liras were expended for each .
Entering the house we paid the fee of three quarters of a majidi and they opened the salon for us.
We looked inside and found it the most magnificent thing ever, outshining the Roman Church building.
The salon is entirely fashioned from porphyry and it has a ceiling that one would
find astonishing. The owner of this place, Sham'aya, spent 10,000 liras, ten thousand for this room alone,
and I would say it is worth much more than that. We left the house
impressed by its perfect construction and returned to our lodgings. Yesterday afternoon
the military physician, Doctor Majid came to visit us. We know him well and he was pleased to see us. Today I
saw Ali al-Kurdi al-Baghdadi at the market. He arrived 7 months ago.
It became dark with thick clouds and we feared that it would rain. At 6:00 and near sunset,
we left in the company of Khowaja Mikha'il Qarawani, his wife, and daughter, and went out of the town past

Page 054

gardens that cheer the heart. We went to the loveliest of all the gardens in this place, called
al-Soufaniya al-Safanya: No reference is found. . Goodness. What an orchard! Inside we found it teeming with people, women too,
all seated beneath the trees with two streams running to the right and to the left. The women
stay here until 10:00 or 11:00 in the evening. I truly loved this orchard very much because
it cheers the soul. There is a lot of freedom in Damascus. Oh, how pitiful life is in Baghdad and the lack
of freedom there. At last we returned after a one hour walk and after sunset we made an evening of it at the home
of Khowaja Mikha'il Qarawani. They received us with all possible kindness. He is a pleasant person as is his wife
and the rest of their household. We returned to our place at 11:00 and went to sleep.
A cloudy and rainy morning. After hearing mass
Khowaja Qarawani's family accompanied us on another tour of the town. We took a carriage
and rode through the quarter and among the markets. Afterwards we came to a neighborhood called al-Midan. At the end of it
there is another railway station and it is worth seeing. It is ornamented
as in Europe. We also went to a workshop where parts for the trains are made. We were astonished to see such works.
We then returned to al-Hamidiyya market to buy ourselves a few things and we entered a shop called
Christopher which truly warrants amazement. Inside one finds everything that one could ask for. I bought
myself a pair of yellow shoes, a shirt, and a straw hat, all for 5 majidis. We got out of the carriage
and continued on foot to have a better look at the shops. We went around from one place to the next
never ceasing to be amazed. In one shop I saw a Monsieur ...[illegible] who is married to Bao's daughter. He
recognized me and asked me much about Baghdad. We also saw Abdullah al-Zalqa who knows us quite well.
He knows Habib al-Ghanouji Habib al-Ghanounji: No reference is available. . He had been in Basrah and said he intended to go to Baghdad
in 30 days time. He asked me about Baghdad and Basrah. We passed through several markets from the jewelers' to the tailors'.
At the tailors' market we entered a bath worth seeing called al-Ashani al-Ashani: No reference is available. .
Inside we found an indescribable vase and the bath floor is made entirely of marble

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as are the walls and ceilings. After tiring of walking we returned to our place and there,
before our breakfast, Monsieur Elia arrived, the interpreter for the Austrian Consul. He returned our papers and passport.
Yesterday my father had been to see the Austrian Consul, Monsieur Rontopoulo. He is
the brother of Madam Kuwaydan, wife of our friend, who is the commissioner of the quarantine in Baghdad. In the afternoon
the wife of Khowaja Mikha'il came to see us and she took me and my mother to her brother-in-law's house. We sat with them
and then went to see a very pleasant house called the House of Lady Rosa the Damascene House of Lady Rosa the Damascene: (bayt Al-Sit Rosa Al-Shamiyah)in the Arabic text, no reference is available. .
We arrived, rang the bell, and they opened the door for us. We entered one small house and went from there to
another. What we saw next was stunning. All the fascinating decoration and Mosaique
work inside and ceilings are wondrous and amazing. It is said that this house had cost 20,000
liras. We left the house and went to visit the Church of the Lazarites Lazarists: A nickname given to the members of the congregation of the Mission that was established in 1625 by Saint Vincent de Paul because they lived at the priory of Saint-Lazare. . It was
very fine church with porphyry and indescribably refined workmanship. We left
and went back to our house. At sunset the Austrian Consul returned our visit and after
dinner we spent the evening at the house of one of the Damascene notables, known as the House of Abu Ahmed.
About 20 European European: In the Arabic text, the word 'Franjiyat' (feminine, plural), has for meaning, the Franks or Europeans. From the Latin ' Francus'. ladies and young girls were there too, but some of them were Jews.
Then it rained for nearly 4 to 5 hours so we had to return in the rain. The weather has been unsettled and gloomy
from the day we arrived until this moment.
I was up at 7:00 because I was awake all last night. A sultry morning
and the clouds are still dark. After I changed my clothes we went with his Grace the Archbishop
to visit some families. We visited the house of the priest of the Patriarchate, Parson Boutros Parson Boutros: No reference is available. , and then
the house of Khowaja Mikha'il's brother. We also went to a place where they do
mother-of-pearl work on chairs and other objects, an extremely fine thing, and there were girls working too.
After that we went to Doctor Majid's house but we did not find him so we left our card.
Next we went to a house that contains a site, now a church, which they say is the place

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Saint Ananias Saint Ananias: Ananias: (Saint) a Christian disciple who lived in Damascus at the time of Saul of Tarsus. The Saint was born and lived in Damascus among an existing community of Jews in the city that was mainly occupied by an Arab merchant people at the time, called 'Nabateans'. A community of Christian disciples had thus grown up in the city and Saint Ananias was, as known, born in Damascus, where he also lived and was evangelized. He received a vision of Jesus in which he was ordered to find a man from Tarsus named Saul who persecuted the Christians, and cure him of his blindness, at the house of Judas, situated in a street called 'Straight' and this is where, in the cellar of this house, he laid his hands on Saul and thus restored his eyesight,and he also baptized the man who was later known Apostle Paul. The cellar at the house of Judas is the place where Saint Paul hid and worshipped. It is located at the Christian Quarter, at the end of Bab Sharqi Street, and is made now as a chapel. Apostle Ananias was one of 70 disciples sent by Christ to spread his Gospel. And it was Apostle Ananias who later saved Saint Paul and helped him flee from Damascus where his life was threatened, by putting him in a basket that was lowered over the city wall. But the refusal of Apostle Ananias to offer sacrifices to idols would later result in his martyrdom. (Memorial Day: 25 January). Wikipedia. to whom our Lord Jesus sent
Saint Paul to be healed when his eyes were hurting. Saint Paul went into his place and was cured. We went into the house and then into
a kind of cellar which is now like a small chapel and we saw Saint Ananias's
place. After that we left and went to the Monastery of the Latins Monastery of the Latins: The Latin church is the church of the West. and entered their church.
I honestly found this church the finest of all with large pillars and built in the style
of the churches in Europe. It also has an Orgue on the mezzanine which is as big as an average room. It is said that
it cost 1000 liras, but it is perfect. Later we visited the head of the friars Friar: The word 'Padrieh' is written in the Arabic text, a colloquial form for the French word'peres'or Italian word 'padre' . All of them
are Capuchins Capuchins: A religious man or woman forming part of the order of Saint-Fran?ois. and they have a school here. In the church I saw a marble slab
on the wall inscribed with the following: ``this is the shrine of the relics of Father Toma Father Toma: In the Arabic text, the phrase 'Padre Toma' is used and 'padre' is transcribed into Arabic. No reference is available. whom
the Jews killed in Damascus.'' I had read a lot about him. Together with the remains of the Father
are the remains of the boy named Abu al-Noor Abd al-Noor: No reference is available. who they killed at the same time
in 1840 to use their blood for the unleavened bread. After this tour we went to see another house
they described to us as the most beautiful in Damascus. We went to the house with Khowaja Mikha'il Qarawani. It is called
the House of Khowaja Mikha'il Sabagh. Entering the house we were truly amazed by
the construction, the decorations, the fountains, and the gardens. Both Khowaja Mikha'il Sabagh Khwaja Mikha’ill Sabagh: No reference is available. and
his wife came and sat with us and treated us affectionately. Afterwards we left and returned to our house. Here in Damascus every
house has one or two fountains with flowing water. Every floor is paved
with polished marble and one never finds bricks. According to custom even the poorest of poor houses
should have flowers. For that reason all the houses are filled with different kinds of blossoms.
When I returned to the house I received a postcard from my friend Antoine Jule in Beirut
replying to my note. He said he was very happy to get my letter and would be very pleased to see me. He will also send
Razouk Bahoshi Razouk Bahoshi: No reference is available. to meet me at the station on Monday. After breakfast we hired a carriage
and intended to visit Colonel Mockler, fearing that we might leave without seeing him. We rode to

Page 057

the Grand Hotel d'Orient Grand Hotel of the Orient: . because we understood he was staying there.
We asked if he was to be found and they said that he was invited to the home of the English priest English priest: No reference is available. and that he had not yet returned.
We decided to go to a place called al-Salhiya al-Salhiyah: No reference is available. , an extremely beautiful area. We rode
past lovely green trees continuously climbing little by little. Then we arrived
at al-Salhiya on the mountainside. From here we could see the entire town of Damascus with the hotels
and buildings. A very pleasant sight. Afterwards we turned toward a place called Dumar Situated along the Barada valley and in the northwest, "Dumar" is one of the main areas in Damascus that the city planners developed in the later twentieth century and where newer suburbs were created. on a
long, straight wooded road. We then returned again to the place where Colonel Mockler is staying
but we did not find him this time either. So we left our cards and went back. By then it was 6:00. At sunset
his Grace the Archbishop fell ill and was in distress. He remains in bed.
The morning is pleasant and sunny. I was up at 7:00. We asked after the Archbishop
and they said that he is better and that they had sent for the physician. So we went to see him. Afterward Francis Francis Shiha: No reference is available.
Shiha visited, he is the brother of Khowaja Habib Shiha Habib Shiha: No reference is available.See note number 27, page number 005, line number 24. in Baghdad. Khowaja Francis had been in Beirut
just a few days ago. We gave him a letter of recommendation from his brother and he stood by us in everything. An hour
later my father and I went to a bathhouse for a wash. We arrived at a bathhouse called al-Misk al-Misk: Name of a bath. No reference is available. at 9:00.
It was a small, pleasant bathhouse. Around here all the bathhouses are very elegant
and there are 57 of them in Damascus but they have the awful custom of paving
all the bathhouse floors with shiny marble on which a person would surely slip.
Even my father slipped and fell when he entered, a fall that could have killed him, and blood gushed from him.
I slipped too but managed to stay on my feet. Then we both washed and returned to our house an hour later.
A Collectionneur de Timbres-poste stamps: In the Arabic text, the word 'Pul' is used that is a Turkish usage of a Persian word which seems to have meant ' a small coin '. It has for meaning 'stamp, either postage or revenue, also 'fish scale'.stamp collector: in the Arabic text, the French phrase (Collectioneur de timbres-poste) is written. who is very keen on collecting stamps [CONTENT] came to see me
and find whether I had any stamps to trade. I brought him some and we continued talking. He said that he would
return in the afternoon and take me to his house to talk some more. At that moment they informed us that
both Mrs. Mockler and Mrs. Tanner, together with Consul Mockler, will visit us.

Page 058

Five minutes later they arrived and were pleased to see us. It was as if we were on our overland journey. Afterwards they went in
to visit the Syriac Church next to the Patriarchate. As they were leaving they invited us for
breakfast the next morning and we promised to come. After breakfast, that is at 1:00,
the stamp collector came to see me and took me with him to his house. We traded some stamps and I returned at 3:00.
I wrote a postcard to my friend Antoine Jule in Beirut and put it in the post.
I told him that I will set out from here not on Monday but on Tuesday and that he should by all
means send Razouk Bahoshi to the station so that I might see him. I likewise asked him to tell me if he had any letters
addressed to me. I sent the postcard to Baghdad by post as I did all the letters
I had prepared. I also wrote letters to our family, Johnny, Jamil Abdul-Karim, a short letter
to my brothers in Basrah, and others, and postcards to Antoine Guilietti,
and Tal'at Nassouri Talat Nassouri: No refernce is found. . I paid 10 standard piasters Standard Piasters : in the Arabic text 'Sagh' is used to mean ' proper, standard, in order, right ' in addition that it means ' a rank in the army and police '. for them. Today we stayed indoors all afternoon and did not
go out. His Grace the Archbishop is feeling much better than yesterday.
A very nice morning with clear weather and a fresh wind. I got up at 6:30
and dressed. As today is Sunday we went down at 7:30 and heard mass
at the church. Afterwards we returned. Monsieur Francis Shiha came to visit us because an hour ago
we had gone to him and had not found him at home. So now he has come and asked us us to go with him but there is
little time left since we have to go for breakfast with Colonel Mockler. At 11:30 we took a carriage
and drove to the Grand Hotel d'Orient, Colonel Mockler's lodgings, but they were not there. However half an hour later
they returned from the Protestant Church. We ate breakfast and returned at 2:00 in the afternoon after bidding them
farewell since we might not see them again. Mrs. Tanner asked us to
come see her in London and Colonel Mockler did the same. We promised that we would come and see them and felt
truly sad to be parting after such a long time together. We returned and afterwards
went to visit Monsieur Francis Shiha where we saw a number of handicrafts such as

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antiques, carpets, and other things. He is very keen on old objects. We returned
an hour and a half later and heard that Archbishop Basil's brother, Archbishop Antoine Archbishop Antoine: No reference is available. ,
will honor Damascus with a visit tomorrow. So today they were preparing a room for him. Truly
we felt embarrassed at staying here and having meals at his place. At 5:00 we went with Khowaja
Mikha'il Qarawani and his family for a stroll. So we went out through the East Gate and we passed through the gardens of
al-Safaniya Al-Safaniyya: No reference is available. and al-Hadi Ashariyya Al-Hadi Ashariyya: No reference is available. and others. The people here were as numerous as worms like worms: See note number 076, page number 018, line number 18 for the entry of April 21st 1897. . Thousands
of men, women, and children, bustle about enjoying themselves. And all of them are Christians
or most of them are Christians. It was so congested that that there was not even room left for the carriages to pass.
We finally entered a garden called al-Baghdadi Al-Baghdadi: No reference is available. and stayed there for about an hour.
Each of us paid two piasters. We returned at sunset and the number of people in the crowd was as many as grains of sand like sand: See note number 076, page number 018, line number 18 for the entry of April 21st 1897. ,
all coming and going. After dinner we spent the evening in Parson Boutros's room.
A very pleasant morning with clear, bright weather. We were up at 6:30 and after
dressing we went to Mikha'il's place. From there we went to a few other houses where there were all kinds of flowers
and other things. Because today is our last in Damascus we must prepare our things
for travel. After we returned at 10:00 we found his Grace the Archbishop in a muddle
making arrangements and preparations for his brother Archbishop Antoine who will honor us by his presence here this afternoon.
Today we did not leave or go anywhere. In the afternoon I sent a postcard
to my friend, Antoine in Beirut, telling him that our travel plans had changed
and that we will arrive in Beirut on Wednesday afternoon because we want to visit Ba'albek Ba'albek: Situated east of the Litani River, Ba'albek that is named for the lord Baal of the Beqaa valley where it lies, is an ancient Phoenician city known as Heliopolis. It became a Roman colony in the first century A.D. and since that time continuous constructions were undertaken by the consecutive Roman Emperors to build and modify the sumptuous and monumental temples for their deities as it was a place of an oracle and divination from earliest times. Famous for three great temples of which the most important is the temple sacred to Jupiter Baal that is identified with the sun hence known in tradition as the Temple of the Sun, the other two temples are for the worship of the deities Venus and Bacchus. In the fifties of the third century, Heliopolis was known as one of the largest two sanctuaries in the Western world besides Praeneste in Italy. With the spread of Christianity, the Emperor Constantine and others succeeding him built basilicas using parts of the temples and their vast stone blocks. The Emperor Justinian ordered to have eight columns disassembled and shipped to Constantinople for the construction of Hagia Sophia. During the early Islamic period, the old city was a cause of argument especially between the caliphs of Damascus and then of Egypt. The Crusaders raided the city and it was three times shaken by earthquakes, however it revived in 1282 owing its fine architecture reflected in its mosque and fortress to Sultan Qalawun. In the fifteenth century, the city was pillaged by Timur. In 1517, the city was controlled by the Ottomans as the rest of Syria, though the Ottomans' authority was only nominal. It was once more destroyed by earthquakes in 1759. In 1840, the Ottomans were granted full authority in Ba'albek with the treaty of London. The digs started in Ba'albek in 1898 by order of the German Emperor Wilhelm II who while traveling to Jerusalem, passed by Ba'albek and was very impressed by the monumentality and beauty of the ruins though earlier in the 18th century interested archeologists had made engravings and documentation of the ruins. which is famous
for its ancient buildings and that we will set out tomorrow morning. Also we received
a telegram from Shukrullah 'Aboud Shukrullah 'Aboud: No reference is available. in Beirut, saying, "Awaiting your arrival at the station."
We wrote him a letter two days ago asking him to let us know of
a suitable hotel where we could stay. So we wired him right away saying, "We will be

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with you on Wednesday evening. Thank you." We also sent a letter telling him about our travel
to Ba'albek and Beirut. At 4:30 in the afternoon Archbishop
Basil went to greet his brother with the priests. A few minutes later they returned and ushered him in with a great procession
accompanied by many people. Archbishop Antoine is an old man, seventy years old
possibly. After church, that is at 6:30, Khowaja Mikha'il Qarawani took me to al-Hadi Ashariyya garden
which lies between two rivers and boasts a pleasant view.
At sunset we returned. This was the last time I would walk in Damascus because
we will take the train to Zahla tomorrow morning. Truly it is a pity
to leave Damascus. We loved it very much.

---

WE GOT UP early and began to prepare. We packed our things to travel on
the Train leaving in an hour and a half.
We changed our clothes and removed everything in our room. We were ready to leave Damascus,
which I had truly loved very much. Oh, if only one lived here. Since the day of our arrival
until now all the people have been pleasant with smiling faces. After
hearing mass for the last time I left and we brought our things down
from the room and put them into a carriage. All of the priests were present, the two Archbishops,
and also Khowaja Mikha'il Qarawani and his wife. We bade them all farewell and felt quite sad at parting with them
because they had all become like family to us. After we thanked them for their kindness
the carriage drove us to the railway station at al-Baramika al-Baramika: The Damascus railway station that traveled between Damascus and Beirut. .
We arrived at the station at 7:30 and bought a second-class Billet to Zahla Zahla: [Zahlé] A city in central Lebanon, noted for its orchards, vineyards, and arak. only.

Page 061

We also paid our fare, that is no more than 7 and a quarter majidis total for three people.
From Zahla we would take a carriage to Ba'albek. Then at five minutes to eight
the train gave a whistle and we immediately boarded. We were accompanied by our servants Mansour
and the water carrier Mohammad who had come with us from Baghdad. We bade them farewell here. Truly
we found it very difficult because they were the last who had been with us from our hometown Baghdad.
All of us were in tears and poor Mansour was crying like a little boy. In the end we said goodbye
and the train set off from al-Baramika. We traveled continuously at maximum
speed. This is the first time I ever traveled in a train. We passed through
orchards, trees, and springs that make a truly pleasant view. I believe
their like is not to be found in Europe. Sometimes we ascended and at other times descended because we must
climb the mountains of the Lebanon. The mountains here are very high and the snow lies on them
and the clouds rise like white steam over them. The time from morning until now
was quite miserable with thick clouds and damp like the worst and darkest days of winter. The train
left al-Baramika at 7:55 and we passed the following stations on the way:
Baramika 7:55 / Dumar 8:10 / Hama 8:20, departing at 8:25 /
Jadayda 8:33, departing at 8:35 / Ayn Fija Ayn Fija: A town in Syria, about ten miles northwest of Damascus. 8:45, departing at 8:57 / Dayr Qanun Dayr Qanun: A village in southern Lebanon. 9:05 /
Souk Wadi Barada Souk Wadi Barada: The small village of Souk Wadi Barada (28 km) stands on the site of the ancient Hellenistic town of Abila. 9:20, departing at 9:22 / un-named 9:30, departing at 9:35 / Zabdani Zabdani: A city in southwestern Syria, close to the Lebanese border. It is in the center of a green valley and surrounded by mountains. The scenic view and mild climate have made it a popular tourist destination. 9:55, departing at
10:03 / Sergayah Sargayah: A town in Lebanon along the railway between Damascus and Beirut. 10:25, departing at 10:28 / Yahfufah Yahfufah: A town in Lebanon along the railway between Damascus and Beirut. 10:43, departing at 10:47 / Riyaq Riyaq: A town in Lebanon, near the city of Zahla. There is still an old train station on the former line between Beirut and Damascus. 11:07, departing at
11:12. We arrived at Zahla at 11:30. It is also called Mu'allaqah Mu'allaqah: Another name for the town of Zahla, located in Beqqa, Lebanon. . Since we arrived
close to noon we thought it preferable if we have lunch
here because the Buffet de Gare is just opposite. The people from the Buffet met us
and took our things to the eating place. We ate hastily and then hired a carriage
to Ba'albek and back for one Ottoman lira. We entered
and at 12:05 drove in the direction of Ba'albek. However the weather was extremely unfortunate. The rain never ceased to worsen, the clouds

Page 062

were heavy, and it was quite damp with a westerly wind. Here as we understood it, in all seasons
of the year the weather is like this. It is because the mountains of the Lebanon surround it on all sides.
The carriage continued on and we passed very pleasant scenery in the distance, such as a few
hamlets at the foot of the mountain amidst greenery and meadows. An extremely happy and blissful life. The climate
here one finds nowhere else and I suppose that no one ever falls ill. When we were having lunch at the station
a train from Beirut arrived, departing at noon for Damascus. We saw it from the carriage
in the distance swiftly passing like wind. What a lovely sight. Sitting in a train is extremely
comfortable and one does not feel either shaking or annoyances but sometimes, because of the speed of travel,
one's vision is blurred and so cannot see the land. However the carriage we rode in is very
annoying because the road is made of small stones. We came to a place they call
Ablaha Ablaha: A town about 30 km northeast of Ba'albek, Lebanon. at 1:00, then to Bayt Shima Bayt Shima: A town in Lebanon. at 2:05. Finally we arrived in Ba'albek
at 4:30. The ancient temples became visible from a distance resembling the pictures we have
in Baghdad. First there were the eight pillars that the Arabs had made some years ago
and the massive stone which the ancients did not bring to the site. It is quite a huge thing, possibly 15 meters long.
Hotel owners met us at the town gate and each claimed, "My hotel
is the best." In the end we chose one across from the ruins named Hotel Victoria Hotel Victoria: A hotel located near the ancient Roman ruins at Ba'albek in Lebanon. This large and well-preserved ancient temple complex was once known as the Heliopolis. .
We left our bags and drank a bowl of tea because we were very cold from the road
and shivering. Then we took a man from the hotel with us and left to tour Ba'albek, the ancient ruins
that resemble Palmyra. We paid the 3 majidis admission fee and entered. Then we saw something
we had never seen before. One's mind is amazed by what the hands of the ancients have wrought. As for the building,
it is made of great, huge blocks of stone. I saw a wall constructed in three segments, each one
possibly 20 meters long and the pillars, also amazing, are each possibly 50 meters
high and are all just in three segments of stone. I mean, like this: I measured the circumference of one and it came to

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13 feet. I mean, like this: Oh my, what a huge thing, such that a person's mind cannot grasp it. And there are other
amazing things. Near the door there is a stairway leading upwards.
I climbed it and counted 22 steps made from just one rock. Here I saw neither
hundreds, nor thousands, but millions of the names of people who had visited Ba'albek.
Some of these are of the nobility and some had come bringing with them tools to inscribe their names.
One sees all the walls strewn with names. We entered
Temple de Jupiter first and
Temple du Soleil second. In truth Ba'albek is worth remembering for the refinement of its construction,
its loftiness, and vastness. I was truly amazed by what I saw in this place. It certainly
is far superior to Palmyra or any other place. I wish to see more of it but tomorrow morning we intend to return to
Zahla and then by train to Beirut. The hotel
where we are staying is quiet and small. It is also across from the ruins of Ba'albek.
We decided that tomorrow morning we will return by carriage to Zahla in order to take the train back to
Beirut. A dark and rainy sunset.
I got up in the morning at 6:00. It was very cold.
It had rained all night long with hail and wind but then it cleared at dawn. After
we had tea we asked the hotel owner to present the bill and he said,
"Ten francs." So we paid him and left. We boarded a carriage heading
toward Zahla. We traveled continuously amid mountains. The weather was severely cold and the mountains of
the Lebanon which surrounded us were draped in snow, an extremely pleasant sight as were
the greenery and houses among the valleys. Here the climate is very
good. Finally at 9:45 we arrived at a small house called Bayt Shima.
We stopped there, went to the house, and saw them working with silkworms. We also saw

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that they have about 500 huge round trays filled with worms. Afterwards we got back in the carriage
and arrived at a place called Karak Karak: A city in Jordan, famous for its large 12th century crusader castle. an hour later. They say that it is
Noah's place, that is to say, his tomb. We finally arrived at Zahla at 11:00 and found
that the train had not yet arrived from Damascus. So we went to have breakfast at the Buffet.
Afterwards we would get coach tickets. At 11:30 the Damascus train arrived.
How wonderful! Colonel Mockler, his wife, and Mrs. Tanner, came out of the train.
What a marvelous coincidence. So they too ate with us and as it was 11:45 we bade them goodbye
and rushed to board the train. Colonel Mockler said that he would be going from here to
Ba'albek and would be in Beirut tomorrow. At 12:00 sharp the train
moved off rapidly. At 12:15 we arrived at Sayed Nayel Sayed Nayil: A town in central Lebanon. , then came to Jaditha Jaditha: A town in central Lebanon, near Zahla. ,
Ashtora Ashtora: A town in central Lebanon. at 12:30, departing at 12:33, to Rijat Rijat: A town in central Lebanon. at 12:52, departing at 12:55. At
1:25 the train entered a hole in the mountain, that is to say, the mountain which is pierced through at its foot. We went in and it was
as dark as a pitch-black night. We stayed in the Tunnel for about three minutes.
At 1:32 we stopped and put the Locomotive at the rear because it would be all downhill.
From Zahla to here we were always climbing until we reached a height of 1500 meters and all the houses
and trees appeared to be growing smaller. We were seeing the orchards that looked like bouquets of flowers
and the people like flies. Likewise the clouds were far below us. Here the clouds
cover us as if we were in a sea. What a beautiful view there is from here high up in the mountains of Lebanon.
I do not think there is anywhere in the entire world with a view so pleasant. At 1:35 it departed
going backwards down the track. In truth when I realized it was going to descend
from such a height my head was spinning. 1:56 Ayn Safr, departing at
2:03 / 2:15 Bahamdun Bahamdun: A town in Lebanon, historically linked to Beirut by railway. Today this resort town is a popular tourist destination.. , departing 2:17 / 2:37 Alay Alay: [Aley] A town in Mount Lebanon meaning 'high place' in Aramaic; historically connected to both Damascus and Beirut by railway. , departing at 2:45 /
3:00 Araya Araya: A town in the Baabda District of Lebanon. , departing at 3:07 / 3:22 Jumhur Jumhur: A town in Lebanon. , departing at 3:27 / 3:40 Babade Babade: [Baabda] A town in Mount Lebanon. , departing at 3:45.

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From here the town of Beirut became visible in the distance and the sea too, but it was quite
far away. 3:57 Hadath Hadath: This is a town near the Taurus Mountains in southeastern Turkey; the historic center of the Syriac Orthodox Church. , departing at 4:00. This is the last station before Beirut.
So I kept looking out the window until the train whistled and at
4:15 and pulled into the Beirut railway station. Then what a joyful sight it was when I saw behind the railing my dear
friends Antoine Jule and Razouk Bahoshi, with Bahjat Nassoury between them. They called out
to me and I responded to them with greetings. No sooner had the train stopped than I got off, went
to the railing, and embraced them. I was truly very happy to see them and I remembered when I was
in Baghdad among my dear ones. Then we immediately got in a carriage. We also saw
Khowaja Shukrullah 'Aboud here at the station awaiting our arrival. So both my mother and my father got into
a carriage with him and I with my friends. We all rode together toward a hotel where we would spend our days in
Beirut. We came upon a hotel called Hotel D'Amérique. We took
two rooms for a few days, one for me and the other for my parents. This hotel is across from
my friends' place so I was very happy with this good luck. We rented the rooms for 18 francs a day
for the three of us. After I brought my friends to my room we talked at length about Baghdad.
Antoine gave me three letters that arrived from Baghdad, one from Antoine Guilietti,
one from Johnny Kasperkhan, and the last from Jamil Abdulkarim. I opened and read them and was pleased
to hear news from our homeland. My letters from al-'Ana had all reached them
and there was no recent news. At 6:00 they left my place and promised me that after dinner
they would come and spend the evening with me. I was quite astonished by Beirut and by
its layout, which is many times more beautiful than Damascus, with its buildings like Europe.
The carriages are as abundant as worms. It is said that there are 1500 and in Damascus
there are no more than 250. The streets are wide, paved, and clean. Here for the first
time, I saw the sea and what a pleasant sight. There were a few ships in the harbor,

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one of them a French warship which is always anchored here on guard. After
dinner my friends came to see me and I spent some hours with them. Our hotel
is lovely and the view from it is quite pleasant opening out onto a large open square. This place is called
Sahat al-Burj (Tower Square). Nonetheless, I have not yet seen anything of Beirut and for that one would need
lots of time.
I got up in the morning and saw that the weather was very good, spring-like with lovely clear skies.
After I changed my clothes I went to mass with my mother at
the nearby Church of the Lazarists Church of the Lazarists: The Congregation of the Mission (called CM by the Catholic Church) is an order of priests. They are popularly known as the Lazarists or Vincentians because they claim St. Vincent de Paul as their founder or patron. because today is Ascension Day. I found
the church very nice and full of people, that is, with only about 10 percent men and the rest
women and girls. It was so full of people that there was no place to sit.
The women sat on the ground floor and the men above in the balcony, and the youth had come to take their first Holy Communion.
They were about 200 boys and girls who came to take communion. The mass was administered by the Vicar Apostolic, who was present there. His name was
Monseigneur Duval, the one who a few years ago was the head priest at Mosul.
The crew on shore-leave from the French warship were also hearing mass. An hour and a half later
we left and returned to the hotel. Khowaja Shukrullah 'Aboud came
and took us to tour the markets since my father wanted to buy a few things for himself. I was truly amazed
by the markets, far better than those I saw in Damascus. They are all enclosed in crystal glass
and are clean and in good order. We bought a few things and returned close to noon.
At 1:00 my friends came and took me to their place. Amid the chatting we decided
to go to a photographer and have pictures taken of the four of us in European dress and hats, and send them to Baghdad.
So we went immediately to an excellent photographer and followed through with our plan but I was disappointed when the photographer said
that they would not be ready before next week. Next week I have to be
in Cairo. So he said that he would send them to me there and I agreed to this. We left

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the photographer's and together returned to our hotel. We sat and talked for about two hours. Afterwards my friends went
for a walk. At 5:30 Khowaja Shukrullah came and took us in a carriage to see the Port,
the ship anchorage on the sea, meaning the harbor. So we went there and what a beautiful sight!
Hundreds of women and men going to and fro and the ships at anchor. There was the French
warship, the Frigate named the Forbin The Forbin: A frigate is a type of warship common in the late 18th and early 19th centuries. , on which they were playing music
and all the people were bustling about. Truly this place is pleasant from end to end and a beautiful promenade.
Here we saw someone from the Sursuq family riding in a carriage pulled by a horse, the like of which
I have never seen. Its color was half milk-white and the other half blue!
And they call this a horse! When it moves one is terrified by its power and gait.
We kept touring around Beirut taking pleasure from gazing at beautiful buildings along
the shore. After sunset we returned to the hotel. My friends came
over and spent the evening with me after dinner.
The morning is pleasant and the wind from the west. I got up in the morning at 6:30 and after
we changed we went to Khowaja Shukrullah's store. We took him with us
to the markets to buy some necessities. Afterwards we went with my father to a photographer's shop
to buy some pictures, but this fellow asked a very high price, so we decided to go to someone else.
We returned to our place at 11:00 and I went to my friends' house after breakfast. I got
Antoine and Razouk and we went in a carriage touring Beirut. We passed several
places I had not seen before and returned at 4:00. At 5:00 we all left
and picked up Khowaja Shukrullah. We hired a carriage to take us to a place called
al-Harash for a walk. It has truly beautiful scenery and abundant pine trees casting shade
over all the ground. Then we sat in a small garden called Janaynat al-Lubnan (The Garden of Lebanon).
We returned to our place at sunset. My friends came again to see me

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and as we chatted they said that there is a place here where they listen to violin playing or the
Orchestra. Then they said that it would be best to go and listen to the music. So we went at
9:00 and joined a gathering full of Europeans and other sorts. We listened to the music
which was very melodious. The players were five men and some eight girls, 18 to 20
years old and all skillful musicians. We stayed for about three hours and then returned to
our place. Today in the morning Khowaja Nicholas Mosulli, Razouk Angourly's partner in Basrah, visited us and invited us to breakfast on Sunday.
The morning is sultry and cloudy and the wind is unpleasant. After we changed we left,
my father and I, and went to a photographer's shop to buy pictures of Ba'albek and Palmyra.
We bought about 12 or more and by chance as we were sitting at the photographer's,
Colonel Mockler appeared at the shop door. We were truly surprised at these amazing
chance encounters with him everywhere we go. He arrived yesterday having stayed two days in Ba'albek,
and he will be traveling tomorrow to Port Sa'id on board of one
of the Lloyd ships. After we left the shop we went to the shop of
the Messageries Maritimes to buy ourselves tickets for the trip from here
on their ship that will depart at sunset after tomorrow. However they told us that it would not be possible now
but would be tomorrow. So we returned to the hotel and found Colonel Mockler at our place sitting with mother. A quarter hour later
he left. He bade us farewell at the end and said, "I believe this is really the last time." I took it upon myself
to hurry and write my letters for Baghdad because the post will go out today in the
afternoon, that is, on Saturday. So I wrote to Louisa, to Jamil Abdulkarim, to Nassoury
Bahoshi, to Antoine Guilietti, and to M'nashi and Nassim. I sent them by post in care of
Razouk Bahoshi. My friends had promised me that they would come after breakfast
get us and go to visit the College of Mar Yousif, or Université St. Joseph,
which is located here and is quite excellent. At 2:00 we all went with my parents to the college

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and received the headmaster's permission to enter. The Headmaster himself came and greeted us and then sent
a priest to show us the whole place. The priest came and took us around. What an amazing
school. There are three floors and I counted 120 steps to the third level.
Here we saw everything: the section for those students who are boarding, their sleeping and changing rooms,
where they dress and sleep, their uniforms and likewise the school, the place where they study. We went down to
the printing house and the bookstore. I was truly amazed by the printing house because of the crafts
therein. There are about 100 persons working each at one thing. The entire
printing house runs on fire, steam, and electricity. They showed us everything
and then we went into the bookstore. I was astonished by the books I saw, possibly
...[illegible] of all kinds in stacks. Afterwards we saw their church which has three
floors, each level with a number of thrones for mass. The final was quite elegant.
I learned from the students that tomorrow afternoon there would be a substantial play
performed here to celebrate the Monastery Headmaster's Day. So I asked Father Shikho whom we know
very well and who was in Baghdad sometime ago, to ask permission for me to attend the
Tragedie and he promised to do so. We left at 6:00 having spent all this time
going around looking at this very large college. Around sunset
Father Yousif, who had been in Mosul, arrived, as did Khowaja Shukrullah and my friends.
After dinner we went to the Orchestra.
The morning was pleasant with a westerly wind. Since it is Sunday
we had arranged to hear mass at the Vicarage with Khowaja Shukrullah at the
chapel there. At 7:15 we hired a carriage and went to the Vicarage
to hear mass. Then we went inside with Khowaja Shukrullah to visit the Vicar Apostolic.
Since he was engaged he sent one of the priests who had been in Mosul for some 12 years.
Later on the Vicar Apostolic, Monseigneur Duval came

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and seemed pleased by our visit. However he is a very dull person and has no sense of humor so we said goodbye and left to visit
the home of Khowaja Habib Sakazan in return for his coming to us the day before yesterday
with his wife. They were at church but returned afterwards. Many guests were visiting them.
At 11:15 we went to the home of Khowaja Nicholas Mosulli for breakfast
there because he had invited us the day before yesterday. His house was large
with two floors. After breakfast I returned immediately to the hotel to find out if
the admission ticket had come to me so that I might attend the Jesuits' play and I came across
the Carte d'Entrée all ready, brought to me by Razouk Bahoshi.
So I rushed off to the Université. I presented the card, entered,
and found about 1000 persons attending, together with the French Consul, Monsieur
Souhart, and the Captain of the frigate Forbin. At 3:00 sharp
the curtain was raised and the play began. It was entitled
La guerre de cent ans. However I found that they performed with an extreme religiosity
so I listened for two acts, then it turned 4:00 and I returned to the hotel
because I had promised to come back so that we might go in a carriage with Khowaja Shukrullah
and his family to the gardens outside Beirut. At 5:30
Khowaja Shukrullah came with his family and we went by carriage toward al-Harash and then turned left to an excellent
garden on a small river. Its name is Janaynat al-Pasha (Pasha's Gardens) but it is extremely pleasant.
Inside in the center, the Lebanese soldiers were playing music with quite lovely melodies
and the orchard was full of women and men, all dressed in European fashion.
There were many people from among the wealthy, that is, like the Sursuq family and other people
numbering about 30 or 40 persons all of whom possess millions. By chance just when
we entered the garden we saw Monsieur Monastersky who was

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commissioner at the Regie three years ago in Baghdad. He told us that he was going
to Istanbul. I saw that he was greatly changed and thin. After sunset
we returned to our place.
The morning is pleasant with scattered clouds. Today is the day we travel from
here to Port Sa'id. After we prepared our baggage people came to visit, such as the brother of Khowaja Habib Shiha,
Khowaja Ibrahim whom we had known very well when he was in Baghdad four years ago,
and also the Chaldean priest, Yousif Taweel. We learned from him that here in the Convent of the Lazarists one could find
a nun, the girl Theresa Maria, who is our relative from the Sayegh family.
Then mother wished very much to see her so the priest took her to where she was living and I stayed by myself
in the hotel. On her return my mother said that she had seen the nun who is named
Sœur Angélique Soeur Angelique: To be completed. and she had showed her all around her place. She was astonished by the
handicrafts of the orphans. In the afternoon my friends came to visit me. They stayed
for a long time. Sœur Angélique came to visit us and brought along a number of photographs
and pictures to show us and we too did the same. I went with my friends
to the photographer who had taken our picture but found that he had not finished anything at all yet.
So I gave him my address in Marseilles so he could send them there. At 5:30 we ate
our dinner here and paid hotel charges of 92 francs. Half an hour later we left with
Khowaja Shukrullah 'Aboud, Antoine, Razouk, and Bahjat to customs so that we could board
the ship from there. They inspected our trunks, looked at the passport, and gave us permission to leave.
In short dealing with the Ottomans is all torment and lacks any civility. So I had
to say goodbye to my friends here. Truly I found this parting quite difficult because
for all this time in Beirut we were like brothers and of one heart. So my eyes were
filled tears at our separation. Then we boarded the boat and crossed to the ship. I did not stop
waving goodbye to them with my hat. Before we boarded the ship they asked for our passport again

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and did not allow Shukrullah to come up with us fearing that he might flee the country.
They are not allowing the people of Syria to travel to America nowadays because all the villages are deserted.
So before boarding the ship we bade Shukrullah goodbye and went up into the ship. And what a
huge ship it is, like a mountain. Its name is the Orénoque Orenoque: Name of a French Frigate,built in 1848, that served primarily in the Mediterranean Sea. and the Captain's name is
Sellier Sellier: The name of the Captain who sailed the ‘Orénoque’. . The stewards greeted us and escorted us to a cabin because we had taken
first class and paid 175,50 francs, meals included. I too had a cabin for myself,
all at this price. After we placed our things in the cabins we came up
on deck, that is, to third-class and I was amazed by this marvelous ship.
It has three sails and a salon containing 25 dining tables. At each table
12 persons can dine and there is a large piano in the front. The deck is 70 paces long
and I very much loved it.

---

AT 8:00 SHARP the ship Orénoque departed from the port of Beirut
and headed for the open sea. The town still glittered at us. As we left, slowly distancing ourselves,
the ship began to rock a little and I was afraid I might become seasick. I managed to get myself up on deck
until 9:00 and then noticed that my stomach was turning. The rocking of this ship is inevitable
because it is empty and not carrying much cargo. I went below and thought it best to sleep so I went to
my cabin and slept.